7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

WildRose

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Feb 3, 2011
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12,659
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N. Texas and S. Africa
Thank you for your comment, I never thought about doing pillars only. Should work just fine I’d imagine. I think I’ll bed it though along with pillars. I’ll need a backup just in case I fail miserably! Kidding, I shouldn’t butcher it too bad.
You'll find that to be the case with many if not most of the very high end take down and switch barreled rifles.

If you screw it up, just take a little more off and do a full length bedding job on the action and recoil lug. I'd bed the lug anyhow.
 

Lefty7mmstw

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May 13, 2012
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5,112
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Dakota del norte
Lefty, what stock did you go with? Mine is a lefty and I still have the original Remington 700 bdl stock on it. I painted it up, it looks ok but it has no pillars or been bedded. I’ll be laid up in a couple weeks after hip surgery. I was contemplating bedding the stock While I’m down since a good left handed stock that’s bedded is hard to find.
I went with the Boyds Prairie hunter lh in blue/grey laminate with the pillar option and a Pachmeyr recoil pad... I also dropped in a brand new Timney trigger as the old one must have been binding...
 

hicountry1

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Nov 28, 2021
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56
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Northern Virginia
I have mine in a H&S precision, and skim bedded it the length of the chamber to the mag opening, and the tang.

I always 2 point bed, not the entire action.

I also do it in two stages. Lug area first, the tang if it's needed

Thing shoots one hole with 160 partitions or accubonds over 7828.
 

WildRose

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Feb 3, 2011
Messages
12,659
Location
N. Texas and S. Africa
I have mine in a H&S precision, and skim bedded it the length of the chamber to the mag opening, and the tang.

I always 2 point bed, not the entire action.

I also do it in two stages. Lug area first, the tang if it's needed

Thing shoots one hole with 160 partitions or accubonds over 7828.
That would be very similar to how I've bedded most of mine as well.

A tip I learned is that you can use a piece of tape on the front of the lug to give just enough room to remove the action easily when needed.

If you have a perfect fit with contact everywhere you simply have no wiggle room which I found out on my first few attempts at full length bedding.

As long as nothing binds, there are no pressure points against the action you should be good no matter what bedding method one chooses.
 

ButterBean

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Feb 5, 2012
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5,951
Location
West Terre Haute Indiana
That would be very similar to how I've bedded most of mine as well.

A tip I learned is that you can use a piece of tape on the front of the lug to give just enough room to remove the action easily when needed.

If you have a perfect fit with contact everywhere you simply have no wiggle room which I found out on my first few attempts at full length bedding.

As long as nothing binds, there are no pressure points against the action you should be good no matter what bedding method one chooses.
I use the tape as well
 

hicountry1

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Nov 28, 2021
Messages
56
Location
Northern Virginia
I use Johnson paste was as a release agent.

I put a lot of it on side, bottom and front of the recoil lug. I use a small paintbrush.

The rest of the area to be bedded gets the wax, the same way, but I buff it smooth using my finger tip and cleaning patches.

The extra paste wax on the lug as described gives just enough clearance , that pulling the action out isn't hard.

Slides right out, easy peasy.
 

ButterBean

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Feb 5, 2012
Messages
5,951
Location
West Terre Haute Indiana
I use Johnson paste was as a release agent.

I put a lot of it on side, bottom and front of the recoil lug. I use a small paintbrush.

The rest of the area to be bedded gets the wax, the same way, but I buff it smooth using my finger tip and cleaning patches.

The extra paste wax on the lug as described gives just enough clearance , that pulling the action out isn't hard.

Slides right out, easy peasy.
Yep it works great but I switched to Pam cooking spray years ago
 

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