7mm rem mag load data

Big Green

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Oklahoma City OK
I bought some Barnes LRX168 grain bullets to use going Elk hunting in Colorado this year. Only thing is that I call Barnes but they couldn't help me on load data. I'm really looking for help on finding the best load data for the bullet and best depth on placing the bullet to get very best performance out of bullet. Yeah really looking forward to getting some help. Tire Barnes was totally NO HELP. Thanks very much.
Big Green.
 
The node for a Barnes bullet in the 7mm REM Mag is ALWAYS going to be .070 to .050. Start with the 070 if you want to save time and components. If you have the capability have it freebored. This is the one bullet that accuracy will INCREASE when freebored.

Three powders work the best. 4350's with 210 non magnum primers for ultimate accuracy and good energy. 4831's with the 215 mag primer very good accuracy and better energy. H1000 for the most energy and good accuracy with the Winchester Mag primer.

These are all temp stable and produce the best internal ballistics and muzzle pressures with this bullet with a 24 to 26 inch barrel. The harmonics will be spot on.

Do not use the load books to find your powder charge. The 7mm Rem mag is grossly under loaded do to its many configurations over the years. Start mid pack and work you way up until good pressure signs. Then back off 2 grains. This bullet likes to be pushed. Do not be unsafe and try to push to much. The hotter the load the tighter the group in most all cases with this bullet and powder combo.


With a decent factory barrel with a 9.25 twist or better you can shoot in the .4 range all day. 9.5 will work but will fall off accuracy at the 875 yd mark give or take.

Barnes use to in the pre lawyer days, validated this.

I is all about the internal ballistics. this way gives internal ballistic as good as the ppc cals.
 
Alot of people try to cheap-out and not buy the manual. The fact is, when handloading, a reloading manual will come in more handy than you can ever imagine. I use mine for refernce points and information all the time.
 
Alot of people try to cheap-out and not buy the manual. The fact is, when handloading, a reloading manual will come in more handy than you can ever imagine. I use mine for refernce points and information all the time.
Do not misperceive what I mean by do not use the loadbooks. The meaning behind my statement is to start midpack with the begging load out of whatever load book you buy. Do not use the loadbooks for the endiing load to tell you what is safe for your rifle. If you know how to load, and read the signs, You will have more knowledge of your personal rifle than the load book. As for myself I have found some t be way conservative (Barnes,Berger) some quite optimistic (Nosler) and others quite good (Sierra). But whatever you choose you should use it as REFERANCE point as Mud described.
 
Do not misperceive what I mean by do not use the loadbooks. The meaning behind my statement is to start midpack with the begging load out of whatever load book you buy. Do not use the loadbooks for the endiing load to tell you what is safe for your rifle. If you know how to load, and read the signs, You will have more knowledge of your personal rifle than the load book. As for myself I have found some t be way conservative (Barnes,Berger) some quite optimistic (Nosler) and others quite good (Sierra). But whatever you choose you should use it as REFERANCE point as Mud described.
I wasn't even regarding your post when I posted my last response. I hadn't even read your post, honestly. And yes, I agree, the ending point on most of the load data is not always the end of the spectrum (more often than not). I have noticed the same with the 7mm RM, as well. The 7mm STW especially, and also the .308 Win.

The Berger manual is especially conservative. The Nosler manual has been pretty spot-on with most of my loads I've developed from it. They are nearing the top-out point. I haven't used the Sierra manual, but the Hornady manual seems to be a "use at your own risk" when it starts listing max load capacities. LOL

I always work my loads up, I just use the book max as a starting point, usually. I know, that's not good practice, but since the Berger manual is so conservative, I usually start either AT book max, or 1 grain below it, then ladder test my way up.
 
I wasn't even regarding your post when I posted my last response. I hadn't even read your post, honestly. And yes, I agree, the ending point on most of the load data is not always the end of the spectrum (more often than not). I have noticed the same with the 7mm RM, as well. The 7mm STW especially, and also the .308 Win.

The Berger manual is especially conservative. The Nosler manual has been pretty spot-on with most of my loads I've developed from it. They are nearing the top-out point. I haven't used the Sierra manual, but the Hornady manual seems to be a "use at your own risk" when it starts listing max load capacities. LOL

I always work my loads up, I just use the book max as a starting point, usually. I know, that's not good practice, but since the Berger manual is so conservative, I usually start either AT book max, or 1 grain below it, then ladder test my way up.
This is where the internet really fails. You can never really see the intent of the response do to there is no tone of voice to hear. Just scripture. No Offence ever intended or directed towards you, or any other person for that matter. Buy the way I do have to admit that the both of us use the max as our starting point. To get me to admit to that on a forum that might start a fire of controversy is something I hesitate to do.
 
This is where the internet really fails. You can never really see the intent of the response do to there is no tone of voice to hear. Just scripture. No Offence ever intended or directed towards you, or any other person for that matter. Buy the way I do have to admit that the both of us use the max as our starting point. To get me to admit to that on a forum that might start a fire of controversy is something I hesitate to do.
I don't say that on the open forum, only for fear of some newb seeing it and taking it as the gospel, and then getting hurt by trying to repeat what I do. I work under my own risk. I absorb all the responsibility of what happens as my own.

If someone else wants to try that and get hurt, tough luck, hope you get well soon. Because I strongly DO NOT recommend starting a ladder test at a max book load. It took lots of tinkering for me to realize that MY OWN GUNS like really hot loads. Every gun is different...Some like mild loads, and some like hot loads. You will never know till you work up your own to find out for yourself. So, please, if anyone is reading this....DO NOT try this on a gun you haven't proven loads in before.

But for any other purposes as to getting "flamed" for saying anything inparticular, or having my own opinion, I could really care less. The internet is the internet. Forums are to share opinions and information. If someone doens't like my opinion, they can either A) be quiet, or B) gripe and complain or C) go pound sand. But usually if they choose Option B, I will tell them to Option C. :D
 
I'd start around 60gr of IMR 7828 SSC with Nosler brass and Federal 215M primers. And do a quick pressure test (5 shots) in 1 grain incriments to see when you start getting cratered primers (60, 61, 62, 63, 64). When you get cratered primers, stop. Then back off 1 grain and load 3 of each powder charge (3-shot groups), working up in .1 grain incriments (per group of 3) to see where your best load is.
 
Yeah that's somewhat of what my plan was but I was planning just getting to bought middle which sould bd around 60.5 then go forward. Plus check density yo go my best to get bout 70%
 
I got the IMR 7828 but my brass is Hornady and Winchester. I plan on starting off at 60 grain and see where pressure is then make the changes that need be made. I do thank you for the info. I just hope the Barnes 168 grain preform like they say they do or I might have to go to a different bullet.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 10 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top