7mm Rem Mag hunting load

my go to for 7mm rm is 69.0 grn IMR7828 CCI Mag primer 150grn Nosler Etip.
I started using them when I ran out of partition points and I am much happier with the Etip.
So far my count with Etips is 7 white tails less than 100 yrds and 1 moose just under the 200 yrd mark. The white tails where 6 between the eyes and 1 lung. The moose was thru the blade bone, took out a lung and settled under the hide on the far side. When I got home I put it on the scale, 141 grns is what it weighted . He didn't go further than 20 feet from where he was hit.
I don't know how they perform pass 200 yrds I don't have access to further ranges. But, I will not hesitate to recommend them.
 
160 gain Partitions in front of Retumbo with a 9 1/2 primer seated to 3.2" just plain works for me with my old M77 carry gun to 600 yards. The Partition has proven to be a very effective killer.....Even when my shot placement has been less than perfect.
The heavy 7 mag gets a stiff load of Retumbo and the 180 grain Berger.....Fly's great past 600 yards but has yet to kill anything but rocks:D
 
What powder are you using with the bergers?

I thought the same way until a price compare , look at it this way and it makes sense. 2boxes of nosler ABs about 60 bucks 1 box of 100 bergers are going for 44 to 52 bucks who's the pricey one now.

I do the same thing, but most Berger's are 100 per.... shooterspr shop has some partitions & ballistic tip's cheap
 
I totally agree with the statements about SSTs and Amax bullets. Add Nosler BTs to that list also.

I don't see why people continue to want to use target bullets to hunt big game. They are accurate, but can really fail miserably on heavy critters. I realize that the SST and BT are listed as a game bullet, but I would not use them on anything but maybe small white tails.

Run the numbers for the partitions and a 7mag and they have enough poop at least out to 700 yards. As far as I am concerned, if you cannot get closer than that, then you need to learn to HUNTand not just SHOOT anyway.
 
What I am about to say is not intended to disparage anyone or anything said in this thread.

"A 22 that hits is infinitely better than a 44 that misses." I quit looking at the cost of bullets for everything except my practice loads. Even those are not the cheapest available. You are talking the difference between $0.60 per bullet and $1.25 a bullet. Over the course of a day at the range how much is that? $12 or maybe $20?

Buy a good selection of all the High BC bullets and do a comprehensive reloading effort to determine which load delivers the accuracy way down range. Use the bullet delivering minuscule groups way out there. Then forget the cost.

I started reloading in 1971 with a Remington 742 in 30/06. Tried every bullet made back then in 150gr & 180gr. Nosler Partitions, Speer HotCores and the Barnes Originals made from copper tubing where THE game bullets. I settled on the then new Sierra 180gr SpBT because all my groups hovered around 1" (from a semiauto no less!) and the others could not tighten up better than 2 1/2" to 4". This held out to 300yds which is what I limited my tests to.

Sierra 180gr SpBT is not the best game bullet but it has delivered one shot drops on every animal I've hit with it. But it is hands down the most accurate bullet in every '06 I've tried it in (5).

Here's my point. Forget the cost. Use the most accurate load for your particular rifle. If it is the most inexpensive bullet, you have been blessed by the Gods! If not, you will be using the load most likely to hit your target as intended.

'Nuf said.
 
What I am about to say is not intended to disparage anyone or anything said in this thread.

"A 22 that hits is infinitely better than a 44 that misses." I quit looking at the cost of bullets for everything except my practice loads. Even those are not the cheapest available. You are talking the difference between $0.60 per bullet and $1.25 a bullet. Over the course of a day at the range how much is that? $12 or maybe $20?

Buy a good selection of all the High BC bullets and do a comprehensive reloading effort to determine which load delivers the accuracy way down range. Use the bullet delivering minuscule groups way out there. Then forget the cost.

I started reloading in 1971 with a Remington 742 in 30/06. Tried every bullet made back then in 150gr & 180gr. Nosler Partitions, Speer HotCores and the Barnes Originals made from copper tubing where THE game bullets. I settled on the then new Sierra 180gr SpBT because all my groups hovered around 1" (from a semiauto no less!) and the others could not tighten up better than 2 1/2" to 4". This held out to 300yds which is what I limited my tests to.

Sierra 180gr SpBT is not the best game bullet but it has delivered one shot drops on every animal I've hit with it. But it is hands down the most accurate bullet in every '06 I've tried it in (5).

Here's my point. Forget the cost. Use the most accurate load for your particular rifle. If it is the most inexpensive bullet, you have been blessed by the Gods! If not, you will be using the load most likely to hit your target as intended.

'Nuf said.

Well said.
 
Catdog- if it were me --- buy a sendero and put a muzzle brake on it. . your objective of 800-900 yds or even 600 with a sporter weight gun is going to be difficult. you do not mention what scope. the gun cost more but to to achieve the result --- less time and money on reloading component. just my exeperience. roninflag
 
MidwayUSA Eblast

HEADS UP!!!
The link above is to Midway's Blemished Bullets. Bought a ton of 300gr SpBT 375's last year for cheap. Surprise, surprise, just as this thread is going they have a bunch of 7mm there. Time is now to pick up practice bullets boy's!! They had 6.5's too. Mine have blemishes so small I can't tell what they are. Enjoy!!!
 
Catdog- if it were me --- buy a sendero and put a muzzle brake on it. . your objective of 800-900 yds or even 600 with a sporter weight gun is going to be difficult. you do not mention what scope. the gun cost more but to to achieve the result --- less time and money on reloading component. just my exeperience. roninflag

My ruger is topped off with a Vortex Viper HS LR 4-16X50 ffp I've had the trigger work on. I also plan on adding a muzzle brake to the gun as well. I really only want to practice out to those ranges. I practice with my bow at a 120 yards and when I move up to 50-60 yards it makes the target seem bigger and easier to get good groups. I plan on using the same concept with my rifle. Unless it's a wolf, then I will start throwing some lead! gun)
 
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