700 Barrel Removal at Standstill

[Muddyboots]

1 - It is a factory Remington LR Sendero contour (no flutes) barrel that was a .308Win reamed to 30-06AI by someone else so it is not a "virgin" factory barrel on original action which is causing all the issues. I am trying to remove a barrel that someone else mounted not the factory.
2 - I can see some seepage of crap coming out of the threads in receiver from the Kroil, PB, acetone injection so that is why I believe thread locker was used which is another reason why this barrel is such a PITA.
3 - Well aware of heat tempering which is why I use a IR scanner to monitor temps when using heat. I rather doubt most use a IR scanner to monitor heat so accurately. Which is why I stopped at 350F to provide adequate safety margin. I worked with a coal forge in another lifetime so well aware of metallurgy.
4 - I don't use a hammer to screw in a screw so I am more conservative than most when it comes to hauling off and smacking it with 10 lb sledge. I do use a cheater bar but that is with steady force and not seeing if I can twist the receiver in half.
5 - I have 12-14 weeks before new barrel arrives so plenty of time to try non destructive means to remove barrel.
6 - Barrel clamping systems are clearly the heart and soul of any barrel removal. The Wheeler wooden block setup served me well for a lot of barrels but when you run up against one like this one, a more positive barrel clamping system is definitely needed. I would recommend that if you are going to buy a barrel clamping system to consider a more robust steel/aluminum bushing style barrel clamp to insure you have solid barrel retention.


Hopefully this clarifies the facts of the situation and why I am trying different means to remove barrel with standard methods but with added steps like I have been trying. I think what I am doing can help others that somehow find themselves in same position of a stubborn barrel. removal.

I am keeping notes so I will post up all the different steps I have tried. If you are a trade gunsmith you won't give one iota about this thread since time is money and the barrel would have been cutoff in a few minutes of failure to remove but if you are like me and time is not a factor it is a challenge and worth doing on your own.

You cannot learn unless you fail which is predominant reason I am trying every step imaginable.

At the end of the day, this barrel will likely be a really good tomato stake for this years garden!

 

[ButterBean]

1 - It is a factory Remington LR Sendero contour (no flutes) barrel that was a .308Win reamed to 30-06AI by someone else so it is not a "virgin" factory barrel on original action which is causing all the issues. I am trying to remove a barrel that someone else mounted not the factory.
2 - I can see some seepage of crap coming out of the threads in receiver from the Kroil, PB, acetone injection so that is why I believe thread locker was used which is another reason why this barrel is such a PITA.
3 - Well aware of heat tempering which is why I use a IR scanner to monitor temps when using heat. I rather doubt most use a IR scanner to monitor heat so accurately. Which is why I stopped at 350F to provide adequate safety margin. I worked with a coal forge in another lifetime so well aware of metallurgy.
4 - I don't use a hammer to screw in a screw so I am more conservative than most when it comes to hauling off and smacking it with 10 lb sledge. I do use a cheater bar but that is with steady force and not seeing if I can twist the receiver in half.
5 - I have 12-14 weeks before new barrel arrives so plenty of time to try non destructive means to remove barrel.
6 - Barrel clamping systems are clearly the heart and soul of any barrel removal. The Wheeler wooden block setup served me well for a lot of barrels but when you run up against one like this one, a more positive barrel clamping system is definitely needed. I would recommend that if you are going to buy a barrel clamping system to consider a more robust steel/aluminum bushing style barrel clamp to insure you have solid barrel retention.


Hopefully this clarifies the facts of the situation and why I am trying different means to remove barrel with standard methods but with added steps like I have been trying. I think what I am doing can help others that somehow find themselves in same position of a stubborn barrel. removal.

I am keeping notes so I will post up all the different steps I have tried. If you are a trade gunsmith you won't give one iota about this thread since time is money and the barrel would have been cutoff in a few minutes of failure to remove but if you are like me and time is not a factor it is a challenge and worth doing on your own.

You cannot learn unless you fail which is predominant reason I am trying every step imaginable.

At the end of the day, this barrel will likely be a really good tomato stake for this years garden!

You just keep scratching at it Brother, Your gonna win

 

[Danny1788]

If you already consider it a tomato stake go to the garage and grab the pipe wrench it won't slip on those jaws.

 

[Muddyboots]

If you already consider it a tomato stake go to the garage and grab the pipe wrench it won't slip on those jaws.

Nope, the WHOLE point is to find a way to remove the barrel so it is still serviceable just to establish various means to do so.

 

[Susquatch]

1 - It is a factory Remington LR Sendero contour (no flutes) barrel that was a .308Win reamed to 30-06AI by someone else so it is not a "virgin" factory barrel on original action which is causing all the issues. I am trying to remove a barrel that someone else mounted not the factory.
2 - I can see some seepage of crap coming out of the threads in receiver from the Kroil, PB, acetone injection so that is why I believe thread locker was used which is another reason why this barrel is such a PITA.
3 - Well aware of heat tempering which is why I use a IR scanner to monitor temps when using heat. I rather doubt most use a IR scanner to monitor heat so accurately. Which is why I stopped at 350F to provide adequate safety margin. I worked with a coal forge in another lifetime so well aware of metallurgy.
4 - I don't use a hammer to screw in a screw so I am more conservative than most when it comes to hauling off and smacking it with 10 lb sledge. I do use a cheater bar but that is with steady force and not seeing if I can twist the receiver in half.
5 - I have 12-14 weeks before new barrel arrives so plenty of time to try non destructive means to remove barrel.
6 - Barrel clamping systems are clearly the heart and soul of any barrel removal. The Wheeler wooden block setup served me well for a lot of barrels but when you run up against one like this one, a more positive barrel clamping system is definitely needed. I would recommend that if you are going to buy a barrel clamping system to consider a more robust steel/aluminum bushing style barrel clamp to insure you have solid barrel retention.


Hopefully this clarifies the facts of the situation and why I am trying different means to remove barrel with standard methods but with added steps like I have been trying. I think what I am doing can help others that somehow find themselves in same position of a stubborn barrel. removal.

I am keeping notes so I will post up all the different steps I have tried. If you are a trade gunsmith you won't give one iota about this thread since time is money and the barrel would have been cutoff in a few minutes of failure to remove but if you are like me and time is not a factor it is a challenge and worth doing on your own.

You cannot learn unless you fail which is predominant reason I am trying every step imaginable.

At the end of the day, this barrel will likely be a really good tomato stake for this years garden!

I am glad to hear that you and the Mrs are feeling so much better.

As you already know, I would have chucked it in a lathe and cut out the recoil lug.

I trust that you understand that this is a long thread now so those new to it are not likely to spend the time it would take to read through all the posts and know where you are coming from. Those who have been here from the beginning have a better understanding.

As one of the latter, I have come to know your worthy goal and I have faith in you and your approach as well as appreciating the reasons why you would choose to endure such punishment.

But you did add another element I must have missed. This barrel has been rechambered....... I'd guess that whoever did that used a thread locker. Most likely too afraid the barrel would come loose. I'd say more about that but don't want to risk offending anyone...... Nuff said.

If it doesn't come off using your soak method, double up on the length of your wood blocks and sandwich that between some equally long thick plate. That would roughly double the holding strength.

Out of curiosity, how much torque do you think you applied to the action wrench before the barrel started to slip?

Most thread lockers will loosen their grip with heat. So I have to wonder what the ship builder who put that barrel on used to glue it in.

 

[LuvDog]

Keep at it... dont let that barrel win.

 

[Danny1788]

Nope, the WHOLE point is to find a way to remove the barrel so it is still serviceable just to establish various means to do so.

I gave you a way to keep the barrel serviceable many pages ago. Cut the recoil lug not the barrel. It will still be serviceable after that.
Your barrel is slipping because you are not holding securely enough. No way around that other than using a different type of barrel vise or clamping method. The wood blocks can work but this is not one of those situations.
Is the sendero barrel stainless? Have the threads galled and now they are ruining the receiver threads? Which is gonna be worse than the pride your taking to get that barrel off. Just my opinion and I wish you luck in your project.

 

[wv270wsm]

Muddyboots don't give up you'll get it loose . From what I can tell by your responses to just cut it off we're a lot alike to stubborn not to get it now. Lol . Also you don't want to use it as a tomato stake your plants may get lead poisoning. Hahaha

 

[Bob Wright]

It's the journey first and destination second. Stick with it Muddyboots.

 

[Muddyboots]

Danny: I really don't have good way to cut the recoil lug to my satisfaction. The barrel is not SS. There is always a chance the threads are galled but my underlying concern is the threads may be galled to start with. When you buy a used rifle build you roll the dice sometimes.

I agree that I also have never had any trouble removing straight factory barrels either. They are easy in comparison to unknown circumstance.

I appreciate your suggestions!


Watching grandkids so all heck breaking loose in house!

 

[steel2]

This thread has been very informative and i haven't ever taken a gun barrel off..but I say stick with it because I am learning with you..I am a logger by trade and do a lot of my own repairs and from time to time I have the same struggles especially with hydraulic cylinders and have learned that I can use enough torque to make something happen,via 30 ton press and torque multiplier and 1 inch impacts but the outcome is sad sometime because the threads are galled but I've learned that if I can relieve some pressure some how usually by cutting the nut etc a little with a cutoff wheel that I can still use everything over with excellent result. I have tried a lot of what's been suggested even the LP idea but the acetone n blaster was a new idea so will keep that in mind n thanks everyone for the entertainment and knowledge...

 

[new2mud]

Ok, thx for all the kind thoughts! The fever chills only lasted couple hours with both of us. Recovered fast and really no big deal. Seriously it didn't last but a couple hours!

So back to the "Show"! I know you all just want the barrel off by cutting but this has become such a personal challenge I want to try every means possible. I look at this as a way to try new off the wall ideas to break the barrel off. So if it ever happens again, I will have a book of steps to try!

I am going to pick up some "freezing" chemicals to try. The injecting of Kroil, PB, acetone mixture into the base screw hole is working since I am seeing seepage around recoil lug. So the barrel may be ready to go.

Wow—congrats to you and the Mrs. on the quick recovery.

Now off to the basement you go!

 

[ntsqd]

It's the journey first and destination second. Stick with it Muddyboots.

This.

We learn more from our failures than we do from our successes.

My observation of thread-lockers has been that you don't have to get them smoking hot. You just have to get them above their max service temperature and they will become soft or softer anyway. No need to risk getting too close to any H-T temps. What I have found is that I have to make things move while they are warm, can't let the assembly cool down and then try to loosen it.

 

[Joefrazell]

As you put out on the wrench have someone else smack with a hammer over and over until it comes loose. Heat the action a bit. O yeah, make sure you use someone that's a good aim haha. You need more than just torque, you need impact to help rattle it loose. Kinda like a 5.4 Triton spark plugs.