700 Barrel Removal at Standstill

My next try is I have some lead pipe stashed for fishing jigs that I will split and place in wood blocks. Friend swears by lead in blocks helps. Will say the wood blocks are not the greatest to hold up to torque so hope adding lead helps. The vise is mounted on a 8' steelcase industrial table that you could land a helo on it so stout. Have 4' bar in pole barn that is coming to party. Wished I had 6' and just might hit hardware store in morn. Getting some sheetrock tape as backup to wrap barrel in blocks. Then I will use my 6'4" 260 lbs to max!

I'd like to save barrel if I could but last resort is cut it and place in garden for tomatoes.

Good comments! Thx!
Once you get it all clamped down heat it and then smack your wrench with a Hammer to Jar it loose but if your not saving it just save yourself some time and aggravation and cut it off
 
My barrel was pretty well burned up. It only shoots a few bullets well anymore so I wasn't concerned with saving it. But I wish I would have gotten the Brownells Barrel Vice. I'll probably end up replacing this barrel vice later on.
 
I found once that the difficulty was caused by the action wrench distorting (crushing) the action and that was the cause of the very high torque needed to turn the barrel. I like the idea of cutting the barrel off at the face of the action. Put it iin a lathe and shave it down.
 
I've got the same barrel vice and brownells powdered rosin changed my life. If you are trying this with out it you are wasting your time. Also don't be afraid to crush the wood blocks. I was and I couldn't break free any barrels. I just keep cranking on the top screws until the torque is excessive. I pulled a stainless Remington barrel a couple weeks ago that was stuck bad. The barrel vice held better than the barrel threads did. I still don't know what happened here but pulling the action off ripped the threads off the barrel. Notice how much rosin I have on the barrel. I also set up the action wrench so that I'm pulling my right shoulder against the leg of the table to provide something to pull against because lifting the table off the ground doesn't help and pushing my weight down doesn't either.
 

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I've got the same barrel vice and brownells powdered rosin changed my life. If you are trying this with out it you are wasting your time. Also don't be afraid to crush the wood blocks. I was and I couldn't break free any barrels. I just keep cranking on the top screws until the torque is excessive. I pulled a stainless Remington barrel a couple weeks ago that was stuck bad. The barrel vice held better than the barrel threads did. I still don't know what happened here but pulling the action off ripped the threads off the barrel. Notice how much rosin I have on the barrel. I also set up the action wrench so that I'm pulling my right shoulder against the leg of the table to provide something to pull against because lifting the table off the ground doesn't help and pushing my weight down doesn't either.
I used rosin I found locally. I guess I'll try the Brownell's rosin. Thanks for the tip.
 
Get an inside wrench that fits the lug and raceway. It doesn't crush the threads you're trying to loosen, you dont have to remove scope mounts etc.
 
Use a parting tool in the lathe just ahead of the recoil lug to relieve the shoulder tension. the screw the barrel out. Make sure you are not crushing the action with the action wrench.
 
OK, I bought a used 700 LA with a Remington 308 factory barrel that was reamed to 30-06AI. I have Wheeler barrel vise and an action wrench that will do 700's. I taken plenty off without any problems at all until NOW! Soaked 3 days with PB Blaster in vertical position on threads just to give it some potential penetration, went through usual setting barrel and wrench and the bugger will not budge even striking the action wrench handle with large rubber mallet.

I heat it with heat gun taking the action up to 200F and still no go which has always worked before.

Placed barrel in freezer for 24 hours, reset in vise, heated action up to 350F with Mapp and still no go; just will not budge. I have been told to take it up to 600F to melt possible thread locker which I am now thinking may have been used to seat the barrel after being reamed to 30-06AI.

So what do you think about 600F? I am not a fan of heating with Mapp but I am out of ideas. I have used the freezer, soaked the crap out of it, used pretty heavy rubber mallet to strike the action wrench so it was getting good shot of impact.

What's next?
If you have access to a lathe chuck it up and use a parting tool to cut a relief about .010 from the action and about .090-.100 deep it should relieve the tension. This is a must on most Tikka barrel
 
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