700 Barrel Removal at Standstill

Susquatch

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Feb 13, 2011
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I was thinking of having a machine shop just make me a aluminum block that fits into the Wheeler Barrel vice that also matches the Remington sporter barrel contour. I was puzzled why the pin rosin method didn't work for me so I looked at other rosins and will try that next time. Or just bite the bullet and get the Brownells Barrel vice.

From time to time, I have used a custom barrel vice block made of devcon epoxy steel. You have to make a cardboard (or whatever) mold to hold the epoxy, and you need to build in a double separation divider to facilitate splitting of the resulting block after it hardens. But the result is a barrel vice block that precisely fits the subject barrel which significantly improves the clamping friction for unusual barrel contours. I recall seeing one of the vice makers (wheeler, Brownell, etc) recommend this and they also have instructions.

I have also made custom wooden clamping blocks from time to time. They are much easier to make than having a custom block made at a machine shop. Oak works very well if cut so that the grain runs perpendicular to the barrel axis. It's easy to Hog a hole out with a course and then fine rasp until it fits and then just cut it in half. The saw cut provides crush space.
 

Bob Wright

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Bob, I have a stubborn streak that sometimes stops the "easy" button!🤣 I just can't accept this barrel cannot be removed without damage.....yet. As you know, these types of "problems" generate the ideas that may not ordinarily be considered. This is my 1st "hunt" of 2021 that is the hunt for a solution. It is a form of engineering fun to some extent! I am also looking at using hydraulics as a possible solution but $$ is a problem.
Something occurred to me...
What if you shortened the handle on the action wrench and whack it then?
The premise is, you need a sudden shock value, as opposed to application of torque (which torque may be applied, without motion).
That handle can bend until failure, but a serious impact on a shorter lever might be enough to get it moving, because bending of the longer lever is reduced???
 

ntsqd

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I think what you're getting at is that the momentary bending of the handle is acting as a damper and reducing the shock transmitted to the action. The total energy applied is the same, but because of the bending it is spread out over a longer period of time reducing the peak shock. I can see that happening. Another option would be to sleeve the existing handle length and make it harder to bend.

The Grainger pipe support is plastic and not particularly firm. Not sure that it will give the desired results.

With metal vise blocks that are a bit big you could bed them with Devcon. Review my post with their specs to select the version with the highest compressive strength.
 

Muddyboots

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Actually the Grainger pipe support is steel so it may have more clamp power. Interesting stuff.
Link: Grainger

Actually I am wrong! The insert is PP and correctly pointed out to me. This is what happens when you can't sleep looking at multiple clamps middle of night🤬
 
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Bob Wright

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I think what you're getting at is that the momentary bending of the handle is acting as a damper and reducing the shock transmitted to the action. The total energy applied is the same, but because of the bending it is spread out over a longer period of time reducing the peak shock. I can see that happening. Another option would be to sleeve the existing handle length and make it harder to bend.

The Grainger pipe support is plastic and not particularly firm. Not sure that it will give the desired results.

With metal vise blocks that are a bit big you could bed them with Devcon. Review my post with their specs to select the version with the highest compressive strength.
Yes, more of an inertia shock. Like an impact wrench vs a long lever.
 

sedancowboy

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Wilsall, MT
Something occurred to me...
What if you shortened the handle on the action wrench and whack it then?
The premise is, you need a sudden shock value, as opposed to application of torque (which torque may be applied, without motion).
That handle can bend until failure, but a serious impact on a shorter lever might be enough to get it moving, because bending of the longer lever is reduced???
That is why the axe works so well. I had one that would not budge. I reached out to bigngreen who has removed hundreds of barrels and he gave me the axe tip. One whack with the axe and the barrel broke loose. Just in case, you whack with the back of the axe.
 

ntsqd

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Actually the Grainger pipe support is steel so it may have more clamp power. Interesting stuff.
Link: Grainger
The plate(s) are, but the semi-circular inserts are plastic. I use almost exactly the same assembliess (only difference that I can see is that they're from McMaster instead of Grainger) on some of the machines that we design and build at work.
 

Muddyboots

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You are correct, I was looking at another steel pipe clamp and added the materials together. The all steel pipe clamp is not the same design and was looking at both late last night so of course combined them! Wish I could though!
Thx!
 
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xsn10s

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Mar 7, 2016
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Soaking with acetone kroil in vertical position for next couple days.
I'm interested on how that works. I soaked mine for around two weeks in vertical position with PB Blaster. It got about 2/3rds through the threads even with the factory thread locker. Still was a pain. IMO the barrel vice is the issue. But hey it's worth a try.
 

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