7 mm SHERMAN SHORTMAG vs 7 SAUM

yes, I guess even the blems are now sold.
You can use the 338 ss head stamp if you don't mind the wrong stamp. it's identical and comes with a 7 neck anyway
 
yes, I guess even the blems are now sold.
You can use the 338 ss head stamp if you don't mind the wrong stamp. it's identical and comes with a 7 neck anyway
Yes I saw that but I prefer the correct head stamped brass. Do you know when you might getting some more in? Or since this is a new build do you have 7max brass in (I prefer Whidden or Forster and I need more than 50) is there a problem doing that on a long action instead of medium? Or keep it short action if I run 180gr or less? Thank you
 
Ordered my barrel yesterday. Having the FB cut to 0.230", 1:8 twist, 24". I have everything else ready to go and will use the time while the barrel gets made to load starter loads. Starting with Berger 195gr and RL23.
 
Ordered my barrel yesterday. Having the FB cut to 0.230", 1:8 twist, 24". I have everything else ready to go and will use the time while the barrel gets made to load starter loads. Starting with Berger 195gr and RL23.
I'd look for something a lil slower burning than rl23. That's work well for 140-150gr, but H1000/rl26/N565/imr7977 would suit the 195 a lil better. I was able to hit 2990fps w/ 195s and N570 but too warm. Powder was compressed even with a 14" drop tube.
 
I had good results with RL~23 and the long bearing surfaced 190 Atip. However, the powder 'node' was narrower than H1000. In this era of limited component choices if RL-23 was my only choice I would not hesitate to develop a load using it. Another slower burning powder with a wide charge node is N165. I have found great precision with it and the 190 Atips but it is more temperature sensitive than H1000 and I have to make adjustments for cooler/warmer weather.
 
I'd look for something a lil slower burning than rl23. That's work well for 140-150gr, but H1000/rl26/N565/imr7977 would suit the 195 a lil better. I was able to hit 2990fps w/ 195s and N570 but too warm. Powder was compressed even with a 14" drop tube.
I have the first 2 and IMR 8133. I was looking to fire form the brass and break in the barrel. Thought I would use all 4 powders and see what happens.
 
I had good results with RL~23 and the long bearing surfaced 190 Atip. However, the powder 'node' was narrower than H1000. In this era of limited component choices if RL-23 was my only choice I would not hesitate to develop a load using it. Another slower burning powder with a wide charge node is N165. I have found great precision with it and the 190 Atips but it is more temperature sensitive than H1000 and I have to make adjustments for cooler/warmer weather.
Thanks Rardoin. I have been looking for N165 based on your results, but can't find any. In the mean time, going to play with 100 rounds and find a powder my system likes. When I can get my hands on N165, I will see what my results are.
Thanks again for the help on my FB decision.
 
Have had 7ss and 7 SAUM, my choice is 7 SAUM all day long. Same velocities, less brass work, and better dies available. But thats just me, to each has his own opinion
 
Have had 7ss and 7 SAUM, my choice is 7 SAUM all day long. Same velocities, less brass work, and better dies available. But thats just me, to each has his own opinion
I'm a little curious what are the better dies, what is the less brass work
 
Up until now brass for the SS had to be fire formed, for me its just a hassle for same velocities. Dies I had to buy were Forester, my preference is Redding Type S dies.
 
Up until now brass for the SS had to be fire formed, for me its just a hassle for same velocities. Dies I had to buy were Forester, my preference is Redding Type S dies.
I'm going to disagree, I have had both Forester and Redding Type S dies and the only difference
I found was Redding cost more, and as far as velocities I use less power to get the same velocities
but that is just my opinion.
 
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I'm going to disagree, I have had both Forester and Redding Type S dies and the only difference
I found was Redding cost more, and as far as velocities I use less power to get the same velocities
but that is just my opinion.
That's great I'm happy for you.
But like my posts stated thats just my opinion and my preference. You can disagree with my preference all day long, still my preference. I was just trying to share info about the titled thread to maybe help some fellow shooter trying to decide between the two cartridges.
 
That's great I'm happy for you.
But like my posts stated thats just my opinion and my preference. You can disagree with my preference all day long, still my preference. I was just trying to share info about the titled thread to maybe help some fellow shooter trying to decide between the two cartridges.

It would help if you didn't make false statements about the cartridge to help others out on deciding between the two.
 
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