6.5x284 Norma

[rsbhunter]

I don't think he needs to fireform. I thought he was using 6.5x284 brass from the get go ? Any way, alot of good advice here....im just now getting ready to fireforming some 6br Lapua brass to Dasher using the false shoulder method......you guys reminded me about not believing it's fully formed til the second or 3rd firing.....rsbhunter

 

[Hard rock]

Hello, I have a CA Ridgeline in 6.5x284. I'm bumping the shoulder back about .002 measuring with the Hornady headspace comparator kit. The initial stretch is about .005. After 5 reloads I'm seeing signs of case head separation and with using a piece of wire I can feel a little dip in the inside of the brass. I'm using Lapua brass and have no pressure signs with the reloads. I guess my question is that is 5 reloads a decent amount before I see issues? The rifle is scary accurate with 147 ELDM's. As a side note I had a 30-378 that I'd be lucky reaching 5 reloads and my Creedmoor has 7 reloads with no issues. Thank you for your replies.

I think I would sacrifice a piece of brass and cut it into too verify the case head separation that you are detecting with the wire , then check and make sure you are not creating head space with your sizing method.

 

[338 dude]

COW fireforming would eliminate that initial stretch.

His Chambers probably slightly longer than mine ,and no matter whether you shoot a round or use cream of wheat fire forming is fire forming the brass must stretch to fill the chamber

 

[PaLuke]

I feel that measuring after I firing is my problem. I could very well be working my brass too much instead of just .002 bump. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[rsbhunter]

As for an annealer, if you don't have the $1200-$1500 to spend, and still want accurate, repeatable annealing, look on YouTube for the "do it yourself induction annealer". For $300 or less you can set up a annealer with water cooled coil and a timer accurate to within at least 1/10 of a second (might be 1/100). Any way, I just couldn't spring for the big machine, and this one annealed every case exactly (same brand, etc) each time.....just in case, let me know if you decide to go that route, and I'll give you the details on the coil making and cooling system..... rsbhunter

 

[2Old2Care]

Love my Annealeez; simple and under $300. Also available through Scheels. I've been getting over 10 reloads with my 6.5-284 with Lapua brass and about the same with Hornady in 6.5 PRC.

 

[rsbhunter]

Affordable annealer have been the best thing since sliced white bread for case life. We really have it good with all of the top quality reloading gear we have......rsbhunter

 

[26Reload]

I had 2 boxes of Lapua brass that
over-stretched with just 3 firing..2 different rifles....
annealed after 3rd and only a few survived..I use that brass for hunting loads and will toss them when done.....
Next 2 boxes have been fine in each rifle..

Jamming .01 might be creating too much pressure for the load also....
I jump mine....
My buddy jams his like you..has over 10 loads with [email protected] holes from his liteweight rifle.....
Round counts will definitely vary as to pressures..fps..brass..annealling....
I use a plumbing torch to anneal.....
Initially after 3rd firing..then after every 2nd firing....@2950+......over 8 loads on good brass so far.....

 

[rsbhunter]

I anneal after each firing...I watched a video from AMP Annealer where he anneal's a case twice in a row. It doesn't effect case hardness at all. I don't anneal for case life as much as seating consistency. My seating consistency has gone WAY up and sd's have gone down since annealing. Everybody has their own system... No wrong way if it works....rsbhunter

 

[dok7mm]

A quick way to check headspace after 1st firing.

1. Measure base to datum on 1st fired case, with primer removed, using comparator. Write it down.

2. Take a spent primer and barely seat it by hand into same case's pocket. Chamber it and close bolt. Extract it and measure shoulder datum to primer bottom using comparator. Write it down.

3. If # 2 is longer than #1, the difference is lacking full headspace from first firing.
If #1 & #2 are the same, the first firing was full headspace and you can proceed with your bump.

Because there's some slight differences in 1st fired cases, I'll check 5-10 cases to get a good average. This method can also be used to check new brass against your chamber shoulder length, but once again there will be some differences in case base to datum from factory.

 

[26Reload]

Easiest way to check headspace...
Strip bolt...put brass on front of bolt..push into chamber...if it closes without any pressure.. test it.....
Pull bolt out...stick a piece of clear thin tape on head of brass...if the bolt doesn't lower without force..good
If bolt lowers easily.....too much headspace..that piece of tape could be .002/.003".........Recut chamber....

 

[PaLuke]

That's a very good idea with the primer. I was just actually talking to a machinist about some sort of plunger that would replace the primer. I know it would have to stay fixed as the empty was ejected. I sliced a casing and there is a visible dent matching the ring around the outside of the brass. I just want to thank everyone for your help and advice.

 

[skipglo]

Thanks for your help. I don't anneal which is probably the reason for my issue. Which annealer would you recommend? Thanks again.

A propane soldering torch or plumbers torch..keep it simple!

 

[WYO300RUM]

It may be more than or something other than annealing!

I run my AI pretty hot and get 10 firings before tossing the brass. I do not anneal, probably should, and barely "kiss" the shoulder when resizing! I do get some resistance when closing the bolt!

Maybe I'm just lucky! memtb

Ditto