6.5 Sherman Recipes

[waspocrew]

I'll hopefully have my 6.5 Sherman in the next month or so, and the thread on the 6.5 SS load data made me want to start a thread as well. I've searched around on the site for loads, but thought a dedicated thread would be helpful. I'd love to hear what others have been using with success!

I know the 140-160 grainers have been pretty popular, but has anyone tried the 130's or 129 ABLR?

 

[BEEMAN]

I have been using N570 and 140 Bergers. I went as high as 64 gr of N570 but that is a bit hot in my gun. Crazy speed and accurate to boot (3329 fps). I have since dropped down to 63 gr of N570 and this shows no pressure in my gun. Work up to this! I believe I started at 58 gr and worked up to 64 looking for pressure signs. As far as 129 and 130 gr bullets, I would shoot heavier. Why handicap yourself with light bullets when you have the performance of the SHERMAN?

 

[reeldawg]

I am running 60.2 of H1000 with 140 Bergers. It's mild over 3000 Fps and very accurate.

Jay

 

[elkaholic]

Better get some RL26.I have shot twice in the last week and have some AMAZING ES with my 6.5 SS. It also gives top velocity, and accuracy doesn't change much over a broad pressure range. I would start with about 59 grains in the Sherman and you will probably end up around 63-64 with a 140 Berger at nearly 3300'. Use a F210 primer (or BR2). Try 2 grains less with the 150 Matrix, and 3-4 less with the 160. Here are 3 strings with my SS with a mild load behind the 140 Hyb. The load was the same in all cases except the neck wall thickness was different in 2 and the seating depth in one. (1) 3125, 3125, 3126 (2) 3134, 3134, 3136 (3) 3130, 3128, 3132, 3130. You might ask if my chrono is goofy? I shot 3 other powders and had spreads up to 50' second variation. This was checked with a Mag Speed.
RL33 works well in the heavies as well. You can start with 64 grains behind a 150 Matrix and 63 behind the 160. You will probably max out 68-69 grains with the 150 and a grain less with the 160. Velocities should reach over 3100' and 3200'.
Here are a few loads for the 140 A-max and berger that have shot well in my Sherman. Use std. 210 primers. 63 grains retumbo 3125'. 60 grains RL25 3125'. 55 grains H4350 3100'. 58 grains 7828 3150'. As always, start a little low........Rich

 

[CliffM]

I can echo Riches comments on Reloader 26, it is in a class all by itself. The E.S. numbers, while not as good as Riches have been the lowest of any powder . That translates into 1000yd groups that are the best to date.

Regarding lighter bullets, I load 123 smk and 120 Sierra flat base for coyotes. H100V is the only powder I tried, 3200-3400 fps, under .5 moa, good to 1000.

Nosler 130 AB's are the only bullet that has given any problem getting below .5 moa. 56.3 gr H4831/BR2 is my go to accuracy load, and the only one that gets under .5. All the 140's will go <.25 at 2950 fps.

Out of 1500 rounds less than 20 have gone into animals, an experimental rifle with experimental ammunition

Cliff

 

[waspocrew]

Thanks for the input so far! It sounds like I may need to find some RL-26... I saw some on the shelves a while back.

 

[bigd 7378]

Rich
Have you tried any imr 7977?

 

[elkaholic]

Rich
Have you tried any imr 7977?

I tried one load a week ago and initial thought was velocity was lacking but accuracy showed potential. Again, this was one load and I don't know how much more I could load to reach max?......Rich

 

[Idaho Sawyer]

I am doing initial load development/break in right now. First off I want to say what a great cartridge this is and Rich was great to work with. I am using Retumbo and f210's with the 160's. I hit pressure at 61 grains with .010 into the lands, I backed off lands and pressure subsided. Haven't shot a group OVER 5/8 MOA and most are 1/4 to a 1/2. I have a *** chrony that I need to shoot in the face so I haven't got any speed readings just yet. I have some RL33 to try and might need to find some RL26.

 

[waspocrew]

My build should be in my hands here soon - my gunsmith was waiting on a part for a while, so now he is just about finished up with it!

I had a quick question about loading for the 6.5 Sherman- I plan on using my unfired 280 Rem brass. Is it really as simple as passing them through the FL sizing die, then making sure to seat the bullet into the lands a bit?

Any tips for forming brass would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Cheyenne 1]

Not quite that easy. I used Nosler 270 brass annealed it to start with, necked it up to 284, necked it back down to 6.5 to put a good doughnut on it to headspace on. Then loaded it with some bullseye, cream of wheat and plugged with bees wax. Fireformed it and then started load development.

Key thing is to make sure the sholder moves far enough forward so it will not have excessive headspace when loading.

This is from experience, the first time I formed brass I didnt get the shoulder to move enough and it caused a lot of problems.

 

[waspocrew]

Not quite that easy. I used Nosler 270 brass annealed it to start with, necked it up to 284, necked it back down to 6.5 to put a good doughnut on it to headspace on. Then loaded it with some bullseye, cream of wheat and plugged with bees wax. Fireformed it and then started load development.

Key thing is to make sure the sholder moves far enough forward so it will not have excessive headspace when loading.

This is from experience, the first time I formed brass I didnt get the shoulder to move enough and it caused a lot of problems.

I appreciate the feedback! I'm new to forming brass... would I be able to accomplish the correct headspace while starting with 280 Rem brass (being .284) and adjusting the dies to only size the neck (down to .264) enough to leave a bit of a false shoulder or doughnut at the base of the neck? Or would I need to take the 280 up to 308 and then down?

I've thought about the COW method, but got a box of 140 Soft points for $5, so I figured I'd help break in the barrel while forming brass at the same time.

 

[Cheyenne 1]

Having it at the 280 neck is fine.
Just make sure as you neck it down to make the doughnut that you have enough crush when you close the bolt to eliminate the excess headspace.
There is a lot of brass moving around.

 

[elkaholic]

I appreciate the feedback! I'm new to forming brass... would I be able to accomplish the correct headspace while starting with 280 Rem brass (being .284) and adjusting the dies to only size the neck (down to .264) enough to leave a bit of a false shoulder or doughnut at the base of the neck? Or would I need to take the 280 up to 308 and then down?

I've thought about the COW method, but got a box of 140 Soft points for $5, so I figured I'd help break in the barrel while forming brass at the same time.

Just got my computer back up. As Cheyenne says, you should have no trouble with the 280 brass as long as you leave a little crush on the false shoulder. I would caution against using bullets unless it is a light load though because the 280 brass is longer than the Sherman chamber will end up when fired. The sherman chamber is 2.525".They usually shrink nearly .015"......Rich