6.5-06 vs 6.5-06 Improved? (CONFUSED)

demarpaint

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
423
Location
NY
Hi and Thanks again,

This has been one confusing decision for me to make, maybe you can help....I got a good news call last night from my cousin who lives in the Adirondacks, his buddy owns over 600 acres and will allow us to shoot on his land, there are many safe areas to shoot varmint and target!!!!

I have been wrestling with building something off a Savage Action and have seen a lot of good posts on the 6.5-06. My question is this: Is there any advantage to an A.I. Version?

What would be a good length barrel (shot from a bench, weight not a major issue)? Shots could exceed 1000 yards by the power line cut-outs.

I am looking to get this right the first time, and you guys have been a great help in the past!


Thanks
Frank D
 
demarpaint

Cannot give factual stats on 6.5/06 as I do not have one but they are commonly listed in reloading manuals. I do have a 6.5/06 AI. It has a 28" barrel and with 140 gr bullets I can easily get 3000-3050 fps depending on exact bullet and powder. It is a very accurate cartridge with good velocity for 142-147 gr bullets if you are familiar with reloading and fireforming this type cartridge.

An AI version (35 or 40 degree shoulder) requires you to fireform brass before neck turning so that is another step you have to go through. Either Lapua 30-06 or 270 neck down then fireform with cream of wheat and very fast pistol powder normally topped off with tissue paper, wax etc. Requires you to leave a partial shoulder (not size neck all way down) on bottom of neck to crush fit case into chamber for fireforming.

Mine was built before the 6.5-284 had decent brass and I would recommend that you really look at 6.5-284 with 28-30" barrel if you are not comfortable doing fireforming etc. Just neck turn load and shoot, no fireforming etc and can get virtually same results especially if you use a tapered 30". Difference in same length barrels is probably 50-100 fps less for 6.5-285 versus 6.5-06 ack improved.

good luck

BH
 
I shoot a 6.5/284 with 140g AMAX and 142g SMK. The barrel is a 28 in 1.25 heavy varmint straight taper. I would recommend using the 140g Amax for varmints. I shot a Prairie Dog last summer at 1040 Yards with this gun and had a string of 5 Dogs in a row from 500 yards to 650 yards
6.5-284-for-web.jpg


1042-setup-web-2.jpg
 
Frank,

An improved version of just about any cartridge is going to give you the potential of higher vel, all else being equal. A bigger "boiler room" for more powder - higher vel. I say potential because accuracy may not be there at the higher vel. A risk with any cartridge.

The question is should I bother. The 6.5-06 is a great case and works very well. The AI might give better case life because of the sharper shoulder. It may give higher vel and certainly will give the same vel at lower pressures. I like the look of improved case so would lean that way.

In fact, for me, the 260 AI with a relocated shoulder would be just about perfect. Use match 308 brass and performance similar to the 6.5-284/6.5-06 without the throat erosion. Get a tight neck if you can neck turn. Will help with accuracy.

I would look at a non tapered barrel 28" to 30" long. Get it as heavy as possible so recoil is nil. A good bench stock and enjoy.

The 140 class of bullets are great and the Amax and MK are both top choices. Get a 1 in 8 twist.

Sounds like a great place to shoot. Good luck.

Jerry
 
Frank,
I've seen enough of both cases used in competition to say that both have the same potential for accuracy in my book. I wouldn't give the accuracy nod to one over the other. The AI will give you more horsepower if you plan on any LR deer hunting. But for varmints it's really not needed. The extra velocity will help a little with wind drift but it really isn't the big of a difference if you look at a ballistics program. If you as the shooter miss a reversal in the wind, the AI won't shoot through over the std case. You still have to steer it correctly to begin with.
I would have to say that case stretch with the AI case is an advantage over the std case as mentioned above. But the flip side of that coin is in fire-forming cases. Depending on the methods you use it's more time and wear/tear on your barrel. Now when I fire-form AI cases I use the cornmeal method w/ a small amount of shotgun powder and a wad of toilet paper to hold in in the case against the primer. This blows out 98+% of the case. I've fired many small groups on the second firing after using this method and your headspacing is good. But if the shoulder moves forward I prefer to use the 90% load of your regular load, w/ the bullet seated long, and a lubed case to fire-form.

28-30" barrel length is a very good for this case capacity. You could go longer, but if this is a carry gun 28-30 will do what you want with very good velocity and decent portability.

So if you find a good local smith that has one of those two reamers then just use the one he has and don't look back. If you have a choice or your going to buy the reamers outright, that's part of the fun of building a new rifle is deciding the caliber.

Note: I've got both 8" twist and 9" twist 6.5 barrels currently and have fired enough 8.5" twist 6.5 barrels that I wouldn't recommend the 8" twist for varmint bullets. Especially the 140gr A-Max. You will have to slow them down to get accuracy out of the 8" twist. I've compared notes with my 8" twist barrel a fellow competitor who used a 8" twist also and our results were the same with the 140gr Amaxs. Now in a 9" twist... the 140gr A-Maxs shoot! Period.... end of story.

I hope this helps,
Steve

[ 01-23-2003: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ]
 
Hi Steve,

I wonder if you would expand on a few things a little more concerning your fireforming techniques mentioned here?

Now when I fire-form AI cases I use the cornmeal method w/ a small amount of shotgun powder and a wad of toilet paper to hold in in the case against the primer. This blows out 98+% of the case. I've fired many small groups on the second firing after using this method and your headspacing is good.

What shotgun powder works well, do you use? I don't know what the guys use to load for them shotguns anyway.
How do you know how much cornmeal to use?
I imagine enough TP wadded up to hol it all in while firing?
When you say it blows out 98% of the case, does this mean the shoulder isn't all the way to shape but headspace is good or what two percent is left to be blown out more?

But if the shoulder moves forward I prefer to use the 90% load of your regular load, w/ the bullet seated long, and a lubed case to fire-form.

Sorry, but what do you mean when you say "if the shoulder moves forward"? I probably misunderstand you... Do you mean moving from the firing pin impact because there's not enough resistance from the semi-shoulder to headspace on?
Lubed case? I assume this is safe with a reduced load... as you are indeed doing it.
Do you lube each case before firing or just every few loads... does the lube build up in the chamber after a few and is not needed after?
I assume you use a very thin amount of lube too?
I'm taking notes and I can't think of a better source so... I am probably looking at doing this very soon and you sound like you have this down to a science.

Appreciate the lesson if you have time.
Thanks.
smile.gif
 
Brent
The stock is an old McMillan Benchrest stock it has been a good stock. I have a 6 ppc and the 6.5/284 barrel for that rifle. The rifle was built by R.W. Hart probubley 15 or 20 years ago. The action is a R.W. Hart 1A action with a Hart triger and Krieger barrel and 6-24 B&L Elite 4000 I am planing on getting a Leupold 24x or 8.5-25 for this rifle
Crow Mag
 
THANK YOU! That was great Steve.
smile.gif
smile.gif
Very much appreciated.

I got to run real quick, just wanted to say thanks, you've just made my life easier.
smile.gif
smile.gif
 
Brent,
Here's some clarification for you on the fire-forming techniques I use.

First a little background for anyone else reading this. When fire-forming Ackley Improved chambers the original parent case technically is suppose to headspace properly in an Ackley chamber and only the angle of the shoulder and body taper of the case gets pushed out. This was one of the design principles of Mr. Ackley. There is always tolerences in everything so the heaspace may not be a crush fit per say but should be within a couple thousands. About the same as firing a factory round in a factory chamber. If it's a custom chamber normally they are setup at minimum spec and that is how my custom chambers are cut. Mine are headspaced to where the bolt of my action just gets resistance about 1/2-3/4 down it's bolt throw and will lock up on a "go" gauge. That's it. The "no-go" gauge is never even used. This sets the chamber at minimum headspace and helps with case life.

Now with that said:

Brent,
Here the details of the cornmeal method I use.

Cornmeal method for Ackley Improved cases
When blowing out my Ackley Improved cases, I've used Green Dot and Unique powders. I reload and shoot shotguns also so it's simply the powder I have laying around. I use whatever I have handy at the time. BUT, you do run pressure with this method, so it's not as simple as just dumping a little powder, it goes pop, and your done. Could you "blow up" a rifle... I don't know and never tried. I doubt it though. But you would be surprised at the sound and some recoil you get when firing one of these cases. Wear ear protection. And your barrel will get hot if you run a batch of cases through one after another.
In my 6.5x55AI case for instance I used 14gr of Green Dot back against some old CCI 200 primers (junkers that are old and questionable for firing). Then I take cornmeal (cheap and not course grained like some other fillers used by others) until the cornmeal is heaping out of the case mouth. Then I take an ink pen and tap on the case. This will settle the cornmeal most of the time until it's about at the shoulder level down inside the case. Then it's a matter of getting the right amount of wadding (another shotgun term there Brent!!
wink.gif
) or TP and pushing it down on top of the cornmeal until the whole thing is tight. The TP should go in with some resistance. I use the same ink pen to "seat" the TP tight on top of the cornmeal. If done properly you can turn the case upside down and nothing moves or spills. So you don't have to worry about spilling cornmeal and junk in your chamber if you don't hold the rifle straightup all the time. I also very lightly lube these cases with Imperial sizing die wax to make sure upon firing, the case sets back against the boltface. Done this for years without a problem. And it does blow it out so it headspaces properly after the fire-forming load. The only reason I said 98% above is the shoulder and neck junctions are normally a little rounded. But after the first full house load they sharpen right up. But no, the shoulder placement doesn't move after the first fire-forming load to answer your questions directly. I use this method for forming 300 H&H brass into 6.5-300 WWH brass also because that case has a belt on it so it doesn't headspace on the shoulder until after it fired. Works the same. I used Green Do for forming that brass also.
One other thing I do while "shooting" these fire-forming blanks is I setup my whole bench, setup with rests, bags, stops..... the whole 9yds. I practice actually firing my bench guns aligning the scope, gun hold, developing good bench technique, watching to see what direction my cross-hairs move after firing etc, etc,etc. This is great practice without the expense and wear/tear on your barrel. This is a great way to tell you if your bags are packed properly. If you rifles walks using these rounds it's going to be a lot worse during actual live fire. This is more for competition type shooting but regular bench techniques can be used and observed. Just thought I would throw that in.

Moving a shoulder forward method

Now if I'm blowing a shoulder forward while fire-forming like I do for the 338 Yogi(approx .050" the shoulder moves forward) then I use my regular load minus 2 grs of whatever powder your using and lightly lube the outside of the case body and neck with Imperial Sizing-Die Wax. Normally jsut enough wax so that your finger tips look shiny is all. Then EVENLY spread the wax over the entire circumference of the case body and neck. Seat the bullets long to hold during intial chambering. What this does is allow the brass to expand against the case walls but not stick for those few milli-seconds and allow the case as a whole to slide back against the bolt face and not stretch the brass. Yes this does create more thrust on the bolt during firing. I've never done this on anything but good commercial and custom actions. Would I do this with a 30-40 Krag rifle with an improved chamber for example?..... no! I've had guys argue with me tooth and nail that this is dangerous and I'll blow my head off. I've also talked with many others that have used it for many years and some are prominent gunsmiths. So it's up to you. Just realize what you are doing and be willing to accept the risk if there is any. NOTE: remember that it is important to keep your locking lugs lubed while doing this or you take a big chance of galling them. Especially in SS actions.
Here's is a perfect example of how this work and that it really does work. 2 or 3 yrs ago, during a competition I normally fire my first 2 or 3 sighters with my fire-forming load that has lubed cases. Due to the oily bore and such the first 1 or 2 sighters are very course sighters anyway so the accuracy/drop isn't that important. It will hit lower so I jsut don't click down that much. In this particular match I was fire-forming all 10 sighters and my match load was 2 gr hotter. I needed those case fire-formed for an upcoming aggregate match. But in the confusion of getting everything setup and my other duties during this match, I forgot to lube all 10 of my sighter(fire-forming) cases. Well, I fired all the sighters and record rounds without a problem. They all fire-formed fine by the naked eye and nothing unusual.
Then a couple days later I resized all of the cases I fired in this match and the sighter cases felt different during sizing. Then I put them in the case trimmer and after the first case realized something was different. It was cutting off .010-.012" off the OAL. Normally this is only a cleanup cut to make sure they are square. At most I might get some shavings. But noramlly just barely a skim cut. This happened to all 10 of those sighter cases. So the wheels were turning in my head as to what is different. Then I realized what happened really by accident a little later on. I ran out of sizing wax that I keep on my loading bench. I went to my shooting box to get my "traveling" can that I take to the matches. I couldn't find it in my box. I found it on my shooting table and I hadn't opened my shooting box after returning from the match until then. So the "traveling" can of wax never went ot the match with me and because of that I never remembered to lube my cases.
So that extra .010-.012" is case stretch from within the case from the brass "holding" against the chamber walls during firing and pushing the shoulder forward and/or the case head backward. The real kicker happened a couple ofweeks later during another match when I had my first case retire out of the original 100 Lapua 338 Lapua cases I purchased. Then another. Within a 2 week period I had 3 case failures (cracked cases around the shoulder/body junction) on 5 firings or less. I number my cases with a majic marker and keep track of the them in a spreadsheet so that I know what cases were used and at what match. Well, those 3 failed case came out of that batch of 10 unlubed cases!
To this day of the original 100 cases I bought, I've fired them many times (wore out one throat and had it setback and rechambered and started firing again on the same cases) with over 20 loading on some of those cases. I've lost 5 cases out of that batch since 1999 in my 338 Yogi chamber. 4 of them were case body/shoulder cracks out of that batch of 10 unlubed case. The 5th is a cracked neck from fatigue that wasn't in that batch.

Hope this answered your questions Brent. If not let know and I'll try again. My fingers are tired right now.

Steve
 
Warning! This thread is more than 22 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top