500-800 yd elk rifle

[asd9055]

What I had come up with originally was my best bet for a factory sub moa rifle would likely be the savage 111 LR in 300 wm or the browning hells canyon LR in 300 RUM - another interesting option maybe the 300 wby in a range certified vangaurd
That comes in around 900 with shipping and would be sub moa. It only has a 24 inch barrel though

I have bought three used MK V
1. 300 WBY, shoots 200 AB, 3 holes touching at 100 yards
2. 300 WBY, shoots 180 TSX, .432" at 200 yards
3. 338 LM, shoots 300 AB, .5" at 100 yards. Just started load development

 

[bigngreen]

Last few rifles I bought were Weatherby but I've played with their sub moa guarantee and found it doesn't mean much the farther you get out. It's rare to have a factory rifle that you can't bring into sub moa and many times better in close but start putting range on it and everything falls apart. Everyones gun shoots small at 100 that means very little at 1000 yards.
Wby barrels are whippy, hammer forged and it can be a struggle in mag chambering to achieve that long range cold bore repeatability that you need without rebarreling.
My daughter's WBY Camilla has shot in the .3's but it's in no way shape or form a long range rifle nor does it even come close to shooting in the .3s at 600, inside 300 yards if an elk gives her more than a couple seconds it's dead by 600 she's shooting my rifle.
There is no Rem I'd recommend unless you find one with the perfect stock at the right price that if it don't shoot you can rebarrel and have the bolt fixed and trigger replaced, then they can be a good platform to start from.
Savage can be excellent but again you can be back around into a new barrel.
The Seekins is more of a semi custom and is why your seeing so many guys recommending them, their stacking the odds.

 

[Daves762]

I hunt with a .338 wm 225 gr e-tips at around 2800 fps - from what I have read I dont think that will suffice at 800 yards. Its a 1.5 inch rifle at 100 yrs. I want to get a secondary rifle that will strictly be used at 500-800 yards. It wont be my primary rifle.

I'm debating between savage long range Christianson arms and a browning hells canyon long range. I want to stay under 1400 for the rifle and around 1k for a scope. Cartridges are between 300 rum - 300 win mag - 338 rum. Outside options would include 7mm rum and 338-378 wby in a mark 5. 300 wm is the cheapest but it seems like it may be a marginal upgradd from the 338 I already use.

This will be for 2021 season

I kill elk at those ranges with a 300 WSM. Took a Remington action and put a Brux heavy barrel on it with a Muscle brand brake, and Rifle Basix trigger. Good handloads under 1/2" at 100yds. Proper data loaded into Gunworks G7 rangefinder. Currently set up for 175 TMK's. Have a new load developed for 178 ELDX and it's 1/2 at 100yds. Although I have not proofed it at long range yet.
My point is, I didn't spend a lot to get there. Already had the remi 300 WSM, I just upgraded barrel, trigger, stock and optics. The money I saved helped in the purchase of the G7 rangefinder.
It doesn't matter how shiny, pretty, and fancy name brand your gear is. It matters how much time you spend using it during practice. That statement rite there gives me the excuse to shoot rock chucks all summer at long range. That gives me the confidence to make long range shots on deer, elk, and those four legged savages that the left loves to hug.....

 

[Wolf76]

Seems like sub moa should be good enough accuracy to hit a kill zone on an elk at 800 yards.

Not sure what you mean by having to be a tenth moa shooter. I know 300 wby doesnt have a reputation as one of the most accurate cartridges but if it shoots moa at 100 it will be moa at 800 and do well with the wind.

Sorry I'm a little late to the party. This line of logic - 1MOA @100 = 1MOA@800- is the problem. A 1" group at 100 almost never equals a 8" group at 800. This is arguably the biggest mistake newer shooters make. IMO 2 things show up at longer ranges - shooter error + quality of loaded cartridge.
At 100, you can get away a ton of error and still shoot a decent group. At long distance this all gets magnified. I've seen sub moa groups at 100 go to more than 2" at 200. I've also seen 1-1.25" groups at 100 shoot sub 2" groups at 300.
If you want a legit 5-800 yard 30 cal, any of the magnums will work (even the old school 300 wm with a 215 Berger). If you want to thump them hard, move up to the 338 rum, 33 nosler 338 lapua/edge.

 

[asd9055]

Sorry I'm a little late to the party. This line of logic - 1MOA @100 = 1MOA@800- is the problem. A 1" group at 100 almost never equals a 8" group at 800. This is arguably the biggest mistake newer shooters make. IMO 2 things show up at longer ranges - shooter error + quality of loaded cartridge.
At 100, you can get away a ton of error and still shoot a decent group. At long distance this all gets magnified. I've seen sub moa groups at 100 go to more than 2" at 200. I've also seen 1-1.25" groups at 100 shoot sub 2" groups at 300.
If you want a legit 5-800 yard 30 cal, any of the magnums will work (even the old school 300 wm with a 215 Berger). If you want to thump them hard, move up to the 338 rum, 33 nosler 338 lapua/edge.

I like your comments. One of my rifle shoots .4 at 200 and .8 at one hundred.

 

[Montucky Roamer]

So you say no to the weatherby with a sub moa gaurentee -- then recomend a Remington and a seeking havoc which neither has an accuracy guarantee. Sorry but your suggesting a crap shoot instead of.a sure bet.

I'm not a wby guy -- but this site obviously has some bias which is blatantly stupid.

Yeah. Ok. You got it figured out I guess.

 

[farmboykjb5.9]

Keep it simple, 7RM or 300 WM

 

[Ace Quackhunter]

I hunt with a .338 wm 225 gr e-tips at around 2800 fps - from what I have read I dont think that will suffice at 800 yards. Its a 1.5 inch rifle at 100 yrs. I want to get a secondary rifle that will strictly be used at 500-800 yards. It wont be my primary rifle.

I'm debating between savage long range Christianson arms and a browning hells canyon long range. I want to stay under 1400 for the rifle and around 1k for a scope. Cartridges are between 300 rum - 300 win mag - 338 rum. Outside options would include 7mm rum and 338-378 wby in a mark 5. 300 wm is the cheapest but it seems like it may be a marginal upgradd from the 338 I already use.

This will be for 2021 season

I shoot a 338 Mag. with 225 Barnes flat base at 2800 fps and this will stretch out to 600 yards for Elk. Now depending on what game animal you are going to be hunting, Deer, Elk, Moose or Bear. You might want to look at a 250 grain projectile, you will lose some speed but the ballistic coefficient will be greater and may get you to where you want to be.

 

[Barkbuster20]

I think iv decided to go with the ruger hawkeye long range target in 300 WM - just have to wait for ruger to make some more. I'm going to try the 215 gr berger in it and go with the vx3i 6.5-20x50.
Shooter error and improperly loaded cartridges dont make a 100 yard moa rifle not moa at 800 yards - none of that is the rifles fault - so I disagree. I also dont believe anyone has a rifle that has its 100 yard groups shrink from .8 to .4 at 200 yards. I dont settle on a load unless I have single digit SD anyway.

 

[JemezDave]

I have a good old 300WM, bought a 300PRC and never looked back-just a better design for long range

 

[Barkbuster20]

Well getting a hawkeye LRT isnt going to happen any time soon - there arent many floating around - and used they are going 100-150 more than a bergara hmr wilderness NIB. I did handle the bergara hmr wilderness and they seem really nice.

The bergara in 300 wm has a 1-10 twist so that leaves the PRC with a 1-9 - 1100 nib cerakoted with a brake. The 300 PRC brass is stupid expensive though..

Kicking around rebarreling my 1903 to 300 wm and having it throated for the larger bullets. Its already been converted to 30-338 wm so the bolt fave is opened up and it feeds decent. -- is it worth putting 7-800 into the springfield? Obviously it would save me money up front , but it is a gamble on what I would end up with (resale obviously would be non existent) might be ahead to just sell the springfield as is for 300 and put that towards a bergara or LRT..

 

[benchracer]

Well getting a hawkeye LRT isnt going to happen any time soon - there arent many floating around - and used they are going 100-150 more than a bergara hmr wilderness NIB. I did handle the bergara hmr wilderness and they seem really nice.

The bergara in 300 wm has a 1-10 twist so that leaves the PRC with a 1-9 - 1100 nib cerakoted with a brake. The 300 PRC brass is stupid expensive though..

Kicking around rebarreling my 1903 to 300 wm and having it throated for the larger bullets. Its already been converted to 30-338 wm so the bolt fave is opened up and it feeds decent. -- is it worth putting 7-800 into the springfield? Obviously it would save me money up front , but it is a gamble on what I would end up with (resale obviously would be non existent) might be ahead to just sell the springfield as is for 300 and put that towards a bergara or LRT..

If you are going to put 700-800 into something, spend it on a good barrel for your Ruger. The idea that a 338 Win Mag isn't an 800 yard elk cartridge is pure bunk. So is the idea that a Ruger won't work as a long range rifle. If you are talking to a smith that tells you something like that, you should take what the smith says as an indication they aren't the right person for the job.

Making the decision to re-barrel an existing rifle also gives you the option to change calibers/chamberings. If the root of your problem is simply dissatisfaction with the 338 Win Mag, you have the chance to go a different direction. Either way, starting the process with a quality barrel will stack the odds in your favor. If you buy another factory rifle, you will still be starting out with a factory barrel, which may not be much of an improvement.

If you decide to consider building up your Ruger, PM me. I have had it done. I am very happy with the results and am equally happy to offer some practical suggestions.

There once was a member here, LongTimeLongRanger, who wrote extensively on what he saw as the optimum way to set up a 338 Win Mag for 700-800 yards. If you can find his posts on the subject, they are worth reading, though somewhat dated. Better bullets, powders, and optics have become available since he wrote those things, but his thought process is still worthwhile.

 

[sp6x6]

I put elk in the dirt for over 35 years with a 340, at those ranges.Most of the guys I hunted with many,338 wm or 8mm rm,shooters.Same most with over 40 elk kills.Just plain simple,it works.My sons on his way with my old stick.

 

[Vol1975]

I hunt with a .338 wm 225 gr e-tips at around 2800 fps - from what I have read I dont think that will suffice at 800 yards. Its a 1.5 inch rifle at 100 yrs. I want to get a secondary rifle that will strictly be used at 500-800 yards. It wont be my primary rifle.

I'm debating between savage long range Christianson arms and a browning hells canyon long range. I want to stay under 1400 for the rifle and around 1k for a scope. Cartridges are between 300 rum - 300 win mag - 338 rum. Outside options would include 7mm rum and 338-378 wby in a mark 5. 300 wm is the cheapest but it seems like it may be a marginal upgradd from the 338 I already use.

This will be for 2021 season

if you want to stay under 1400 dollars either rebarrel the 338 with a custom barrel and or buy a donor rifle Remington 700 300 Wm used and see if it shoots good. If it don't then rebarrel it.
either way you can put a sure enough top of the line barrel on a action for an economy price.