memtb
Well-Known Member
Thanks David! I started thinking about this conversation. The topic being, Caliber choice and rifle recoil. I don't think recoil will be an issue, but as a shotgunner, you may not be intimately familiar with rifle scopes.
These are some of my opinions. Don't skimp on the scope, you don't need to spend a fortune....but think quality. The scope must handle the recoil, "AND" have good eye relief ( for the additional recoil). As the H&H is to be used primarily on large game and at distances of less than 500 yards, 8 or 9 power on the upper end is "plenty" adequate. We used the Leupold Vari X lll ( now VX 3, I think) 2.5- 8, for over 20 years with zero failures. There are several others out there in similar price ranges that offer similar quality. As the rifle may be used for some close-up work, low power ( 2 or less) can be very important.
Also, consider buying used....you can save a bunch. If (unlikely) the scope has an internal issue, most top manufacturers have a lifetime warranty.....merely return it for repairs! It will be an aggravation, inconvenience, plus a few bucks for shipping... but you saved up-front! There is a classified section, right here on this site, and on other hunting/shooting websites!
On rifles,take a look at the Kimber Talkeetna. It's rather expensive, but has many real nice features and is relatively lightweight. There will be a little added recoil, but the lighter weight, will be a "huge" benefit while carrying! You'll likely carry it much more than you shoot it, while hunting. The Talkeetna almost mirrors my AI, I had built in '89. If I were shopping today for myself (and the money wasn't an issue), I would seriously consider the Talkeetna. Then I'd hire a reputable gunsmith to make it an AI (or .375 Weatherby) and make it into a 700 yard (or more) capable rifle. Of course, this is practical, "only" if you handload!
In rereading, this entire topic, I noticed that you asked me if it can be used for elk! I have used the .375 exclusively since the early '80's and my AI since it's build in '89. It is my "only" hunting rifle. It is used on all of my big game ( antelope/ Whitetail up to moose bison). It even goes coyote hunting occasionally!
On bullet selection and zero range. I use one bullet, one powder charge, and one zero! I "only" have one set of trajectory numbers to memorize. If you use the rifle enough, it become a reflex action.....not a thought process. On of the benefits of using one rifle, bullet, zero.....exclusively! My zero varies from most! As most of our shots are in open country.....we use a 300 yard zero. You "hold on hair" from zero to 400 yards. You "must" remember, to hold a bit low (that reflex thing mentioned) that at around 170ish yards you will be at maximum trajectory and could shoot over small game (coyotes, etc)....as your bullet will be around 6 inches above line-of-sight. You will be approximately 10" to 11" low at 400 yards. Again compensate (by holding a bit high), but you're still "holding on hair"....in case of a incorrect range estimate or some shooter error. If the rifle we're to be used "only" for close range shooting (bears in brush, etc)....I would likely e use a 100 yard zero, and learn my drop out to 250 or 300 yards. The 100 yard zero may help you "thread" a bullet through brush/limbs for those shots in those situations!
All the Best, in your decisions! memtb
These are some of my opinions. Don't skimp on the scope, you don't need to spend a fortune....but think quality. The scope must handle the recoil, "AND" have good eye relief ( for the additional recoil). As the H&H is to be used primarily on large game and at distances of less than 500 yards, 8 or 9 power on the upper end is "plenty" adequate. We used the Leupold Vari X lll ( now VX 3, I think) 2.5- 8, for over 20 years with zero failures. There are several others out there in similar price ranges that offer similar quality. As the rifle may be used for some close-up work, low power ( 2 or less) can be very important.
Also, consider buying used....you can save a bunch. If (unlikely) the scope has an internal issue, most top manufacturers have a lifetime warranty.....merely return it for repairs! It will be an aggravation, inconvenience, plus a few bucks for shipping... but you saved up-front! There is a classified section, right here on this site, and on other hunting/shooting websites!
On rifles,take a look at the Kimber Talkeetna. It's rather expensive, but has many real nice features and is relatively lightweight. There will be a little added recoil, but the lighter weight, will be a "huge" benefit while carrying! You'll likely carry it much more than you shoot it, while hunting. The Talkeetna almost mirrors my AI, I had built in '89. If I were shopping today for myself (and the money wasn't an issue), I would seriously consider the Talkeetna. Then I'd hire a reputable gunsmith to make it an AI (or .375 Weatherby) and make it into a 700 yard (or more) capable rifle. Of course, this is practical, "only" if you handload!
In rereading, this entire topic, I noticed that you asked me if it can be used for elk! I have used the .375 exclusively since the early '80's and my AI since it's build in '89. It is my "only" hunting rifle. It is used on all of my big game ( antelope/ Whitetail up to moose bison). It even goes coyote hunting occasionally!
On bullet selection and zero range. I use one bullet, one powder charge, and one zero! I "only" have one set of trajectory numbers to memorize. If you use the rifle enough, it become a reflex action.....not a thought process. On of the benefits of using one rifle, bullet, zero.....exclusively! My zero varies from most! As most of our shots are in open country.....we use a 300 yard zero. You "hold on hair" from zero to 400 yards. You "must" remember, to hold a bit low (that reflex thing mentioned) that at around 170ish yards you will be at maximum trajectory and could shoot over small game (coyotes, etc)....as your bullet will be around 6 inches above line-of-sight. You will be approximately 10" to 11" low at 400 yards. Again compensate (by holding a bit high), but you're still "holding on hair"....in case of a incorrect range estimate or some shooter error. If the rifle we're to be used "only" for close range shooting (bears in brush, etc)....I would likely e use a 100 yard zero, and learn my drop out to 250 or 300 yards. The 100 yard zero may help you "thread" a bullet through brush/limbs for those shots in those situations!
All the Best, in your decisions! memtb
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