338 Norma Mag improved

Lonewolf74

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 12, 2016
Messages
727
Hey guy's, looking for some help hear.

I have a 338 Norma Mag improved 35* that is finally about done, been a couple year project for me. Anyway I want to get a starting point for fire forming brass. The components I have on hand are Berger 250's and 300's but I'd like to pick up some cheap bullets for forming. The powders I have on hand are H1000, RL26, N565 and N570 but hear again if I can find anything I would like to use a less desirable powder to burn up fire forming.

So if anyone can give me some advice on finding a starting point to form brass as well as components that would work well but maybe less desirable (such as Ramshot magnum) or some other powder I would appreciate any input.

Thank you in advance for the help guy's
 
I personally don't have any experience with you cartridge but was reading this thread a few days ago during a search. I didn't get very far into it, dang rabbit holes
 
This is what I was going to use for a fire forming load but in a different cartridge. Nosler 300gr are almost the same price nut to heavy for my needs

 
I fireform all of my improved cases with COW, no need to burn up a barrel firing bullets to get brass.
I use a 1/3 of a normal load with Universal or Clays, COW over the powder and then a twist of TP packed down firmly. Cases come out formed but with rounded shoulders, correct headspace and no stretching at the web.
If you want to use bullets, use a full power load from the parent with a mid range powder.

Cheers.
 
Thank you for the response's guy's it is appreciated.

Magnum; thank you for the simple and direct response and reeling me back in, I was simply over thinking what I need to do!

For the cream of wheat method is it necessary for there to be some crush on the neck shoulder junction? I don't believe I'll achieve that due to the Peterson brass I have being a little short compared to the samii specs I went off when designing the reamer. So that's why I intended to jam and burn some lead.

Second question is the 1/3rd normal load a good safe starting point? Other words a typical load for this cartridge (parent case not improved) would be around 90 grains. So I would be safe starting at 30 grains of Universal?

Thanks again for the help guy's!
 
Thank you for the response's guy's it is appreciated.

Magnum; thank you for the simple and direct response and reeling me back in, I was simply over thinking what I need to do!

For the cream of wheat method is it necessary for there to be some crush on the neck shoulder junction? I don't believe I'll achieve that due to the Peterson brass I have being a little short compared to the samii specs I went off when designing the reamer. So that's why I intended to jam and burn some lead.

Second question is the 1/3rd normal load a good safe starting point? Other words a typical load for this cartridge (parent case not improved) would be around 90 grains. So I would be safe starting at 30 grains of Universal?

Thanks again for the help guy's!
"IF" you do not quote them directly, i.e., @MagnumManiac, he might not be aware of your question because he does not get a notification. He is very active and accommodating/responsive in sharing his personal experience.
 
Second question is the 1/3rd normal load a good safe starting point? Other words a typical load for this cartridge (parent case not improved) would be around 90 grains. So I would be safe starting at 30 grains of Universal?
Yes, exactly this.
If you are worried about headspace, fear not, because this method allows the case to fill the chamber without stretching at the web if done gentle enough.
Just be wary that if doing 50 cases that you will need to run a brush down the bore every so often to ensure no build up is occurring, I ruined 5 expensive H&H cases because I didn't clean. Just a heads up.

Cheers.
 
I'd push you into a Hydro forming die. I did some load testing recently to verify velocity and POI shifts using Hydro Forming die custom made by Whidden . So far the results have been excellent . Velocity ES has only been 33fps. SD of 8.1. POI is about an inch difference.

I'd save your barrel and use a Hydro forming die. It's messy to use but saves money and components .

Or you can do what I've done to my .338 Norma AI, Hydro die, and or good old fashion load work up. I have loads for normal .338 Norma brass and loads for fire formed. So when I shoot I'm not wasting any time. Standard. 338 Norma loads are .5 MOA and Fire Formed AI is .5 MOA.

I use the Hydro die because I bought it and was curious about it. Save your money where you can. Stick with the bullets you want to run and go out and shoot it
 
I have a Whidden Hydro die for my 338-416 Rigby Improved 45° shoulder….
I have to use it to push the shoulder forward the .150" required…..that's all it is designed to do, then the case must be sized down in steps from .416" to .338" and then fireformed.

Cheers.
 
Thanks for the help guy's and I got everything sorted out.

After much thought and internal debate I went the route of fire forming with a full load and bullet. I realized to neck up my brass all I needed was a 35 Whelen decapping assembly to put in my universal decapping die. So I necked up and created a false shoulder on my brass as well as jammed the bullet and fired away.

I only needed to form 5 cases at this point because I'm sending a few pieces in to get custom Whidden dies made and I'm definitely gonna try the hydraulic form die. If I would need to form more or all my cases I would indeed try the COW or even just powder and tissue plug methods to form some brass.
 
Thanks for the help guy's and I got everything sorted out.

After much thought and internal debate I went the route of fire forming with a full load and bullet. I realized to neck up my brass all I needed was a 35 Whelen decapping assembly to put in my universal decapping die. So I necked up and created a false shoulder on my brass as well as jammed the bullet and fired away.

I only needed to form 5 cases at this point because I'm sending a few pieces in to get custom Whidden dies made and I'm definitely gonna try the hydraulic form die. If I would need to form more or all my cases I would indeed try the COW or even just powder and tissue plug methods to form some brass.
Did you end up having a hydraulic forming die?
 
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