338 lapua brass sticking.

[Grizz1148]

Just took a savage 110 fcp on trade. The cases are sticking to the point that it requires a hammer and cleaning rod to tap them out. I'm not new to reloading and I know the first thought is pressure but...shouldn't be. Here's the story as best I can tell it. Using lapua brass, not new but once or twice fired, trimmed to 2.714, 86gr rel 19, 250gr smk, fed 215m match primers. Fired 7 rounds all stuck after the first. First did not. Spoke to the guy I got it from, he said he did not have this issue and gave me the load data he was using. Also stated he trims the brass .005 less than book. So I trimmed one down to 2.709, seated the bullet deeper and fired. Case stuck. They go in easy and won't come out. I know people bend the truth sometimes when selling things but I tend to believe him as he sent me pics of his brass with calipers on them showing length. Anybody have any idea what else I can try? Sorry for the long story but wanted to give all the info I could. Thanks in advance.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I have the same rifle but I'm loading more propellant (H1000) and I pay close attention to bumping the shoulder back, in my case 0.002 every time, in Whidden bushing dies, seating with an RCBS front load comp seater with a 338 VLD plug.

I'm sending (hard to get) Berger 300 grain VLD's.

Never had a sticky case, heavy bolt lift or ejector marks.

I believe something is amiss in your reloading regimen.

 

[WEATHERBY460]

Too hot of loads with combo of a tight chamber.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Better add, I'm loading Privi-Partisan brass, not Lapua.

 

[Grizz1148]

I truly don't believe it's my loads but I'll back em down and try. Loads I tried are 2 gr under max and no signs of pressure on the brass. I've read a lot about ppl having the same problems with this rifle but they never go back and say if they fixed it or what the issue was.

 

[Grizz1148]

I bumped the shoulders back as far as the die would allow. Loaded rounds go in easily, no friction at all. I load for all my guns...alot...never had this happen without pushing the load to the hot side and these shouldn't be. Don't get it. I'll try backing down and see.

 

[Franklin]

I would guess a poor chambering job from the factory. Have a Smith borescope it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I bumped the shoulders back as far as the die would allow. Loaded rounds go in easily, no friction at all. I load for all my guns...alot...never had this happen without pushing the load to the hot side and these shouldn't be. Don't get it. I'll try backing down and see.

I have to ask, what brand of die and your resize procedure..... Not all dies are capable of 'bumping back' a shoulder, though you assume they are....

Brand and type of die will be important as well as body length but I'll get into that later on....

Are you measuring shoulder datum before and after resizing?

Can you 'feel' the shoulder being retarded?

338 Lapua chambering is especially sensitive to bumping, I know, like I said earlier on, I have the exact same stick you have.

Though I don't load with your powder, you should see pressure signs before anything else.

I have to lean toward not enough setback but I need to know more about your equipment and method first..


You can PM if you want to. Don't mind.

I may be FOS but I don't think I am...

Your comment 'as far as the die will allow' speaks volumes but I need to know what die.

My dies would allow me to bump the shoulder to the point where the case body would be 1/4" shorter and all the brass wadded up in the neck bushing..............

 

[Edd]

If they are sticking that tight, I would think you could look at the brass and determine if there is a specific spot that is sticking. Without some more information, you are only getting guesses.

 

[Grizz1148]

I think I figured it out. Pressure. I just figured it couldn't, or at least shouldn't have been pressure because I was under the specified max load. I loaded up a round today with 10 gr less powder. Brass didn't stick, only thing I noticed is the last 1/8th inch while pulling up on the bolt popped up or snapped over for lack of a better term. Then case fell right out. Velocity was 200-250 fps faster than what is published. Some due to 1 1/2 inches more barrel.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Rule of thumb is, every inch is around 50 fps increased velocity....

Still curious about your reloading die brand. You see, most stock dies are designed to bottom on the shellholder when sizing and bump dies don't bottom at all.

I'ts easy to modify a stock die and turn it into a 'bump die' by either removing a couple thousands of the base or purchasing a lowered height shell holder. Myself, I prefer removing some of the base.

In fact, my bump dies have all short bases so I can 'wad up the brass in the neck' if I set them for an interference fit to the shellholder... I don't of course.

 

[SidecarFlip]

For my 338, I load in the excess of 100 grains of H1000 and while not looking at a burn rate chart and comparing yours to mine, I have no idea as to the ratio.

 

[degreen]

I had the same problem with my 111 lrh. I sent the gun back to Savage twice. The first time they replaced the extractor (did not help). The second time I told them I wanted the chamber smoothed up. Then I read an article on Berger's web page talking about nose slump. I went and bought a box of 250 gn SMK's and loaded them with the same load (no problems). I was using 250 gn SGK, and found that the Lapua does not like the game kings. I see that you are using MK's so I would try using either H1000 or Retumbo.

 

[Nimrodmar10]

A friend of mine had the same problem with the same gun. It turned out to be rust in the chamber.