I’m going to try both, thank you.....in 180 grain, it’s a 1 in 10 twistLots of good ideas have come up, I'd only offer to start at the start.....scope that's trusted, mechanically ready to roll and some good bullets to try.
The LRAB and the Accu are not the bullets I'd personally begin with. I'd move to those bullets once I found other loads to shoot. Those bullets fit into what I call "bitchy bullets". Meaning they can be quite tempermental.
Let the gun tell you what it likes to shoot, don't try to dictate to it what it'll like.
Try the good old boring 180 Horn sp flat base. If it won't shoot that bullet then there's issues. Also the 180 NBT.
I will do that, Saturday is my shoot dayI go back to my idea to load 3-5 different bullets with 5 powder charges. Which ever bullet yields the most good group is where I would start development. Try a couple different weights. It’s ok not to go to 200 gr, but how about 165-180? of at least 2 makers.
Morning, In your question you said you broke your barrel in per instructions. I have found that when I break in new barrels I have used the way Krieger Barrels has on their website, it takes a long time but I have gotten a lot of success using this process. It usually takes me the most part of a day. What I use to smooth the barrel is USP bore paste, it has garnet dust in the paste and works wonders. I've been doing this a long time.Hi there, I have a Montana rifle in 300 wby, I just had a #3 Bartlien barrel installed by a very good gunsmith. It has a great tigger and is bedded in the factory Montana stock. I broke the barrel in per the instructions. H-4831, IMR 4350 and a box of factory wby 180 ammo. I can’t get the gun to shoot! It’s a 1 in 10 twist. I cleaned real well with CR-10, then ran JB Bore Paste down the barrel, then cleaned again and oiled. the bullet I’m trying to get to shoot is a 168 accubond long range. The scope is a 4.5x14 leupold, Warne bases and Leupold PRW rings. I loaded a bunch more with IMR 7828, R-19, and AA-3100. Now, by the way, during break in the barrel was very very filthy. I’m hoping that the JB Bore Paste helps. I seat the bullets so it clears the magazine for magazine clearance purposes. All bases, rings and scope are top notch and tight. I’m told that IMR 7828 is the go to powder? Any tips? Maybe takes awhile to break in? I’m letting the barrel cool after a few shots as well. Thanks for any tips at all to get this going.
Having the screws tight is no indication that it's stress free. I doubt if two manufacturers ie the mounts and action made by two different people will join perfectly. That's why I bed everything in a stress free state for 100% contact. Some receiver to scope mount can have as little as 50% contact when the screws are as tight as is possible with a large T handle or screw driver.There's always lots of advice. Some is good,some not so good. Yours is pretty good. I'm retired and have more time than maybe is good for me, so I could probably do all this over a couple of months. He might be limited in time, but this might work. I figure that he and his gunsmith have already verified the scope and mounts, but maybe not. I think if its shooting into the same group, even if the group is 2 inches, the scope isn't walking. Whenever I have had a scope fail in its adjustments, it has resulted in a second or third shot 5 or more inches off at 100 yards, and a complete change in impact for a subsequent shot. If his groups are consistent in the impact area(centered on point of aim) even if they are large, its probably not the scope or mounts. And its easy to check, because you just check screws for tightness. If I had a gunsmith mount a new barrel, I'd have had him check the scope, mount and rings. Actually, I did that this summer, and the gunsmith did just that. As to the other, its good advice. I'd just do .5 grain increments, because I'm basically lazy and want to shoot more than I want to do load development. Besides, I'm quite satisfied with 1" groups from any of my rifles except my Heavy Barreled 30-06, 25-06 or the varmint weight .308.
I do know this, barrel is a #3 heavy sporter, synthetic stock bedded length of cartridge, . Barrel is free floated after that, I’ve never had a gun shoot good for me with tip pressure....brass is new and trimmed.You're looking at so many things at once it will be hard to keep track of everything you're doing. Look at this like a bench rest trouble. Start with the smooth barrel. Then check your reloading technique. match your brass and trim on the cases. Look next at the way your barrel is in the stock. Is it free floated or does the barrel touch the forearm up close to the front, Weatherby use to, I don't know if they still do, use to have a small rise near the front to touch the barrel. You're trying to control harmonics of the barrel so the bullet leaves the barrel at the same place in the wave. I'm in my 70's please tell me if you know all this stuff.
I’m not seating them anywhere near the lands, I’m thinking it’s my powder/primer selection so far.So its chambered in 300 Wby. mag but with no free bore , as the factory would have done. So a factory Weatherby Load would surly generate a lot more pressure in the custom Non Free bore Barrel, than it would in a Factory Spec Barrel, that may have a huge (.250-.270 ) amount of free Bore. Wow!!! This deserves a much closer look, in my opinion. I do remember reading that much Published Load data for Weatherby Mag Loads are tested with Weatherby Rifles , so the factory free bore becomes part of the equation , and that max Loads should never be used in Non Free bore Barrels. I say again, Please consult Weatherby !!! Its worth a phone call buddy !!