.300 rum ballistics

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by spliz, May 7, 2004.

  1. spliz

    spliz Member

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    I just purchased a .300 Remington Ultra Mag / Model 700 LSS. I put a Zeiss Conquest 4.5-14 x 44mm (stainless) scope on her. She is a beauty! My question is what is a good all around ballistic to shoot for this rifle? I mainly hunt mule deer and rocky mountain / roosevelt elk. I hunt in Oregon and Washington and long shots are not uncommon. From what I've read it sounds like 180 grain will best suit my needs. I want to know what brand (remington, federal, etc) and cartridge type I should use. If anyone has any experience with this rifle, not only with ballistics but anything else relating to this rifle and can give me some advice it would really be appreciated. I'm new to this forum, so I apologize if this question has already been posted.
     
  2. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    First off with that LSS I'd get it glass bedded. Second have the trigger pull weight dropped down to about 3 lbs by a gun smith. Third thing I'd do is ensure you've got quality mounts on it to stand up to recoil.

    That done...I'd start looking for a Nosler Accu Bond load in either 180 grain or 200. For the elk I'd suggest the 200's. I shoot hand rolled 200 grain Accu Bonds with 84.5 grains of retumbo and Winchester mag rifle primers without a crimp. Extremely accurate load...not hot by anymeans but accurate! The 300 RUM doesn't like moly or lubralux so don't even bother with that.
     
  3. spliz

    spliz Member

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    Hey! Thanks for the quick reply. I am still quite ignorant when it comes to a lot of these terms. I'm definitely a beginner. I've been hunting all my life, but have never got this much into rifles and ballistics.

    When you say 'glass embedded' what does that mean?

    I definitely agree with you on having the trigger pull lightened. This is one of the first things I'd like to get done. I haven't checked prices yet though. What does something like this typcially run for price? Just a ballpark range would be nice. I'm sure it will vary from gunsmith to gunsmith.

    I went with the double Leupold scope mounts, assuming since they were Leupold they would be fine. What is your opinion?

    Thanks again!
     
  4. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    Glass bedding is when they take a epoxy compound like acra glass and spead and area around where the receiver fits into the stock. This ensures a 100% proper fit and eliminates any movement and receiver torquing. This one of the #1 things to do to ensure accuracy.

    The trigger job shouldn't run any more than $50 bucks...but worth every cent!

    When you set up your mounts be sure to tighten well...even a dab of lock-tite will help keep things tight! I strongly suggest Burris signature rings for holding power and limit scope damage from rings.

    Get yourself some snap caps as well to practise your trigger pull without the punishing recoil
     
  5. spliz

    spliz Member

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    You definitely know your stuff! Thanks again!

    p.s. I shot this baby for the first time over the weekend. Whoa... she is a kicker!
     
  6. marty1028

    marty1028 New Member

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    Chilly Willy, Why do you say moly doesn't shoot well out of a 300RUM My gun shoots them great.
     
  7. Fiftydriver

    Fiftydriver Official LRH Sponsor

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    Chilly Willy,

    I have to question your comments about the 300 RUM not liking coated bullets as well.

    Mine will drive Ballistic Silvertips and moly coated Partition into 3/8" 100 yard groups as long as I keep the barrel cool.

    Spliz,

    Here are the prices I charge in my shop for the work you need.

    Trigger job: $37.00
    Steel Bedding: $60.00
    Pillar Bedding: $100.00
    Recoil Pad upgrade: $50.00

    YOu do not need all of these, the trigger job you do need.

    You can either have your barrel "glass" bedded or pillar bedded. My idea of glass bedding is to use a bedding compound made up of 75% stainless steel fibers which makes it several times stronger then "Glass" bedding compound. Especially for a heavy kicker like your 300 RUM.

    Pillar bedding is basically the same as steel bedding except aluminum pillars are installed to support the action so that there will be zero wood compression when the action screws are torqued properly. This is not only stronger but also much more stable. It costs a little mor ebut it is worth it.

    Another important up grade I recommend is a better recoil pad then the Rem pad. To be blunt, they suck. I recommend Kick-Eez recoil pads because they are the best on the market I have found for absorbing recoil energy, even vastly better then the old standby Pachmyr Decelerator pads. The only draw back to the Kick-Eez and why alot of smiths do not like them is because they are a bit tricker to grind to fit.

    You have to grind them slower then most brands but onec you learn to do so they are all around the best I have used on real heavy kickers.

    You may also think about a muzzle break if you are not against those. I just sent a 300 RUM out that was a Rem M700 synthetic/stainless that was kicking the hell out of its owner and thous he could only get 3" groups out of it at 100 yards.

    I looked the gun over and found nothing wrong and a trip to the range confirmed the rifle would hold under 1 moa at 100 yards easily, it was just to much for the owner.

    I tuned the trigger, added a Kick-Eez pad and installed a Holland Quick Discharge muzzle brake which is I feel the best hunting brake on the market.

    Now the rifle recoils about like a 25-06/270 class rifle and he has gotten groups down to under 1" at 100 yards.

    If your curious, I charge $150.00 total for the Holland brake installed.

    If I were you, I to would try the Accubond. If you hunt elk alot, use the 200 gr pill loaded to around 3150-3200 fps. This will handle elk fine and vertainly allow for long range mule deer hunting.

    If your curious about any other work let me know!

    Good Shooting!!

    50
     
  8. Nighthawk

    Nighthawk Well-Known Member

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    Every gun is different.
     
  9. ackleyguy

    ackleyguy Well-Known Member

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    Chilly...1 When you say the .300 Ultra is "over bore" you are incorrect.......with certain powders the is NOT enough case capacity to create high pres. signs....2, your statment about moly not shooting well in a certain caliber is pretty strange....perhaps in a certain barrel...but not in a certain cartridge...3
    when you say moly may benefit those that shooy "high volume" by "extending barrel life" How do you know this to be true?? [​IMG] This postis not meant in any way to flame you at all...however i think we should try to keep the facts straight...just my o2's worth
     
  10. ackleyguy

    ackleyguy Well-Known Member

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    Chilly...1 When you say the .300 Ultra is "over bore" you are incorrect.......with certain powders there is NOT enough case capacity to create high pres. signs....2, your statment about moly not shooting well in a certain caliber is pretty strange....perhaps in a certain barrel...but not in a certain cartridge...3
    when you say moly may benefit those that shoot "high volume" by "extending barrel life" How do you know this to be true?? [​IMG] This post is not meant in any way to flame you at all...however, I think we should try to keep the facts straight...just my o2's worth
     
  11. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    The comment on moly is simply that it provides greater lubrication for the bullet as it passes out through the barrel. The copper jackets provide increased presure over the moly coated bullets and generate more volocity with the same amount of powder. My 300 RUM shows no presure signs at all up to 85 grains of Retumbo and spits a 200 grain accu bond at 3006 FPS over the crony. With an overbore cartridge like the RUM, I don't understand why moly would benefit you at all? I've seen posts with guys loading the 300 RUM right up with 92 grains of Retumbo and still not at their rifles max shooting 200 grain SMK's....so why moly? Only benefit I see here is barrel life would be a little more for those heavy shooters.
     
  12. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    Okay, Ackleyguy....

    Lets here what your position is on moly coated bullets for the RUM. You've certainly slammed my post so let's here the factual back up from you! Moly acts as a bullet / barrel lubricant and reduces presure resulting in slower volocity from the muzzle....your telling everyone that this is wrong???? Maybe you can enlighten everyone with the benefits of moly over standard copper jacket bullets as it pertains to the 300 RUM and the factory 26" barrel? [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  13. SeniorSendero

    SeniorSendero Well-Known Member

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    Ladies, ladies. Enough already.

    Moly does reduce pressure, hence velocity. Now you can bring those pressures back up and then some safely to get even higher velocities. Not only that, I get reduced fouling. I'll shoot nothing but moly coated bullets in my 300 RUM.

    Ronnie
     
  14. ackleyguy

    ackleyguy Well-Known Member

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    Lets get this straight...as I said in my prior post I in no way meant to "slam" you. Nor, did I ever claim that MSo2 did not act as a bullet/bore lubricant as YOU claim I did...perhaps you misundestood my post. I asked how you know that shooting moly extends barrel life?? Seems simple enough to me [​IMG] And furthermore it would be unwise to comment on the benifits(or lack therof) of shooting moly in YOUR 26" factory bbl .300 RUM..Good luck in all your future endeaver's [​IMG]