.264 win mag handloading

[jjmp]

You know , I've forgot to Congratulate on your new Rifle sorry bout dat ! Sounds Very good the way you set her up , make sure to not get her to hot and buy a bore guide and one piece cleaning rod ,and some good cleaning soulvents . How's your trigger pull ,most new rifles could stand to be adjusted lots lower in poundage ,Joe your doing good , many Posters will miss the fact your a newbie ,dats not at all bad but it can be Overload so Ask us anyway and Happy reloading to you Joe !!!

 

[Joe Moore]

You know , I've forgot to Congratulate on your new Rifle sorry bout dat ! Sounds Very good the way you set her up , make sure to not get her to hot and buy a bore guide and one piece cleaning rod ,and some good cleaning soulvents . How's your trigger pull ,most new rifles could stand to be adjusted lots lower in poundage ,Joe your doing good , many Posters will miss the fact your a newbie ,dats not at all bad but it can be Overload so Ask us anyway and Happy reloading to you Joe !!!

Thanks very much with the reply .. I actually bought a tiptons bore guide and a tiptons fiberglass one piece rod with some brass and nylon brushes .. I did a barrel break in trough 35 rounds first 20 cleaned and let cool after every round .. next 3 shots let cool then cleaned .. picked up some bore tech cu2 for cooper removal .. was at the range back when I used to shoot a lot more (family time now lol ) and the gentleman let me swab a .204 barrel and thought wow .. boy it cleaned out well .. BEEN OUT OF HE GAME SINCE GETTING MARRIED AND KIDDOS .. thanks for all the in site on the matter .. a lot of time and money savings .. time is the hardest thing to muster these days

 

[jjmp]

Fantastic Joe !!! Cheers !

 

[aushunter1]

Your load of 60 grains of Rel 22 looks VERY HOT when looking at the 8 edition of the Nosler Manual for the 140 grain Partition. Their max load is 59 grains.
Alliant Powder state a max load of 53 grains with a 140 grain Speer SP.

Yeh I just looked up the RL22 data & noticed the 53gr max load for a speer SP,

So OP, do you have a second manual or did you even compare the Alliant data to Nosler??

Personally I trust the powder manufacturers date over a bullet manufacturers manual!!

Hopefully the OP doesn't injure himself!

As for the shooting this morning .. best group .. imr 52 gr 140 nosler partition .. shot 1.25 inch @100 .. I need better than that .. off of a lead sled

So Joe now that you have admitted you have very limited reloading experience I'll ask some other questions because everyone seems fixated on powders.

What brass are you using & how did you prep your brass, what's you regime?

What dies are you using?

How are you dispensing/weighing your powder?

Regardless of your loads, if you are not being critical of your processes then you may never better 1.25 groups!

There is more to reloading than putting powder into a case & expecting to get sub moa groups!

 

[kiwikid]

I'll try to track down retumbo .. local spots don't have any I also made 5 rounds of IMR 4064 at 52 grains .. they shot better . Is the imr 4064 slower burning than rl 22?

Joe, 52 grains of IMR 4064 is also 1 grain over MAX load according to the Nosler Manual for the 140 grain Partition. Lyman state a MAX of 50 grains with 140 grain bullets and IMR Data Base don't even list this powder in the 264 Win Mag.
Please be careful as I am sure your Family would prefer you to be in one piece.

 

[Joe Moore]

Yeh I just looked up the RL22 data & noticed the 53gr max load for a speer SP,

So OP, do you have a second manual or did you even compare the Alliant data to Nosler??

Personally I trust the powder manufacturers date over a bullet manufacturers manual!!

Hopefully the OP doesn't injure himself!



So Joe now that you have admitted you have very limited reloading experience I'll ask some other questions because everyone seems fixated on powders.

What brass are you using & how did you prep your brass, what's you regime?

What dies are you using?

How are you dispensing/weighing your powder?

Regardless of your loads, if you are not being critical of your processes then you may never better 1.25 groups!

There is more to reloading than putting powder into a case & expecting to get sub moa groups!

Hornady fired brass . Full length sizing .. (all specs are good on the brass..

I picked up today Hodgdon retumbo ..
3 lbs .
140 gr nosler partition
Cci large rifle primers (250)
No. 9 1/2 Remington large riffle primers
I cleaned the riffle thoroughly
I used a hornady lock and load oal gauge .. with notified .264 case and slug in question .
Measured COL .. to lands 3.240/3.241/3.240 .. called it 3.240.

Hodgdon site per retumbo powder bullet weight of 140 has a start at 59.7 gr and a max of 63.5 ..
I'm using single stage rcbs
Dies
5-0-5 scale
Lyman hydrosonic cleaner
And cabelas dial caliper .. I am a shop machinist by trade I compared and checked calibration .. .00 +/-

Didn't mean to bore you and thanks for replying .. I'm about to load.. how would you start I.e 3 or 5 . Laddering up wise i should say .. try Remington primers and cci ? 2 gr increments ?

And the rl 22 got hotter than hell quick .. I survived

 

[aushunter1]

Hornady fired brass . Full length sizing .. (all specs are good on the brass..

I picked up today Hodgdon retumbo ..
3 lbs .
140 gr nosler partition
Cci large rifle primers (250)
No. 9 1/2 Remington large riffle primers
I cleaned the riffle thoroughly
I used a hornady lock and load oal gauge .. with notified .264 case and slug in question .
Measured COL .. to lands 3.240/3.241/3.240 .. called it 3.240.

Hodgdon site per retumbo powder bullet weight of 140 has a start at 59.7 gr and a max of 63.5 ..
I'm using single stage rcbs
Dies
5-0-5 scale
Lyman hydrosonic cleaner
And cabelas dial caliper .. I am a shop machinist by trade I compared and checked calibration .. .00 +/-

Didn't mean to bore you and thanks for replying .. I'm about to load.. how would you start I.e 3 or 5 . Laddering up wise i should say .. try Remington primers and cci ? 2 gr increments ?

And the rl 22 got hotter than hell quick .. I survived

Good to hear you survived joe
BUT people do get their faces blown off from time to time through a variety of reasons which is 99% of the time operator error

Anyway seeing your a machinist you would appreciate gauges & how essential they are, from day 1 of my reloading adventure some 15 years ago I researched all the gear I needed to make the most accurate ammo I could, even for hunting.
So things like headspace gauges, comparators & OAL gauges are a must for any serious handloader who wants to obtain small groups.
You need headspace gauges to be able to set up your dies correctly, OAL gauge to know how far off the lands you are (in conjunction with the comparators) & be able to change that during the LD stage, your CBTO plays a major roll in shrinking groups imo.

Where to start, well for me it depends on the spread of the powder charge, sometimes there can be 5gr from min yo max so then I go .5 increments, sometimes if there is 4gr or less(sometimes there is 3.5gr!) I will then go .3 increments.

This is my usual process from another thread-
I start all my LD regimes at 10 thou CBTO, find the node/s then change my CBTO to 5 thou & to 15 & 20 with the best performing charge, never had to go any further before finding the perfect depth, if I get very close to where I want to be at a set depth then I will also do small incremental powder charge changes of .1gr either side of that.
That's my method anyway, I usually have a result within 40 rounds, if I haven't I swap powders OR scrap that projectile which I rarely do but have only had to do that twice(more about the stability factor really) when loading for 7 different cartridges & up to 3 or more projectile types in a single rifle but I have never ventured more than 20 thou.

Also Joe, if you haven't already done so there is some great info in here in other existing threads, use the search button as it a great resource to have at your finger tips!
Here's some threads you might get something from-

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/what-is-your-reloading-process-from-start-to-bang.221646/

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/case-prep-question.222545/#post-1664035

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/seating-depth-limitations.219425/page-2#post-1625089

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bullet-touching-the-lands-or-2000th-back.222901/page-2

https://www.longrangehunting.com/th...king-for-feed-back.219865/page-4#post-1631096

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bullet-off-lands.218153/

Good luck in your quest

Edit: While I don't suggest or promote it I also go slightly over max book loads in my work up by up to 1gr, obviously keeping a close eye on the pressure signs & stopping if something does not look or feel right.
Quite often you can & do find more that 1 node & 1 can be in this higher range.
If you have decent brass you generally find that you get less or zero pressure signs even at 1gr over.*GENERALLY speaking most reloading data is slightly on the conservative side, for your safety & so I guess there are minimal law suits

 

[Joe Moore]

Good to hear you survived joe
BUT people do get their faces blown off from time to time through a variety of reasons which is 99% of the time operator error

Anyway seeing your a machinist you would appreciate gauges & how essential they are, from day 1 of my reloading adventure some 15 years ago I researched all the gear I needed to make the most accurate ammo I could, even for hunting.
So things like headspace gauges, comparators & OAL gauges are a must for any serious handloader who wants to obtain small groups.
You need headspace gauges to be able to set up your dies correctly, OAL gauge to know how far off the lands you are (in conjunction with the comparators) & be able to change that during the LD stage, your CBTO plays a major roll in shrinking groups imo.

Where to start, well for me it depends on the spread of the powder charge, sometimes there can be 5gr from min yo max so then I go .5 increments, sometimes if there is 4gr or less(sometimes there is 3.5gr!) I will then go .3 increments.

This is my usual process from another thread-
I start all my LD regimes at 10 thou CBTO, find the node/s then change my CBTO to 5 thou & to 15 & 20 with the best performing charge, never had to go any further before finding the perfect depth, if I get very close to where I want to be at a set depth then I will also do small incremental powder charge changes of .1gr either side of that.
That's my method anyway, I usually have a result within 40 rounds, if I haven't I swap powders OR scrap that projectile which I rarely do but have only had to do that twice(more about the stability factor really) when loading for 7 different cartridges & up to 3 or more projectile types in a single rifle but I have never ventured more than 20 thou.

Also Joe, if you haven't already done so there is some great info in here in other existing threads, use the search button as it a great resource to have at your finger tips!
Here's some threads you might get something from-

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/what-is-your-reloading-process-from-start-to-bang.221646/

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/case-prep-question.222545/#post-1664035

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/seating-depth-limitations.219425/page-2#post-1625089

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bullet-touching-the-lands-or-2000th-back.222901/page-2

https://www.longrangehunting.com/th...king-for-feed-back.219865/page-4#post-1631096

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bullet-off-lands.218153/

Good luck in your quest

Edit: While I don't suggest or promote it I also go slightly over max book loads in my work up by up to 1gr, obviously keeping a close eye on the pressure signs & stopping if something does not look or feel right.
Quite often you can & do find more that 1 node & 1 can be in this higher range.
If you have decent brass you generally find that you get less or zero pressure signs even at 1gr over.*GENERALLY speaking most reloading data is slightly on the conservative side, for your safety & so I guess there are minimal law suits

Thanks so much .. a lot of info .. will be in touch ..

 

[Trnelson]

Retumbo is a good choice for a 264 win and 140g bullets. Save yourself a ton of time and money and get your hands on at least one reloading manual. There is a lot more to this game than dumping powder into cases, and don't get your charge information from anything posted online. 264 win doesn't have a long barrel life. I have had barrels that didn't make 500 rounds with heavy use. Don't squander it with marginally useful powders. Personally, I don't use anything faster than H1000 in any of my 264 win rifles.
If you'd like to discuss loading for a 264 win specifically, feel free to send me a private message.

 

[wildcat455]

Hi Joe!

I see you got some good help and advice here so I'll just say welcome to the 264 Win Mag fold, and don't hesitate to ask if you have a question or a doubt.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Jauberger]

Welcome to the club! Nothing wrong with anything you are working on. It will certainly do the trick. If you have sufficient time before your hunt and the desire to test a bit more you can probably do better.
Only thing I would like to add is maybe take a look at a slower burn rate powder with better temperature stability. I've had a couple of 9 twist 264 win rifles over the years. I had good results with H-1000 in a couple of rifles. Also, a lot of guys find good results with Retumbo with 140g bullets and 3,150fps isn't at all unreasonable. Others have reported good results with R-26, I haven't tried it in any of my 264 win rifles. My favorite hunting rifles are my Model 70 rifles, one in 264 win and another in 30/06.

I'm loading 140 partitions to col 3.320 I think, the nosler book tells you. My 1960 Browing hi power has 22 in tube and is going to gunsmith. It doesn't group anything past 100 yds. Only close to 1 moa group was with 120 nosler ballistic tip, but went to 11 inchs at 300 yds

 

[jjmp]

Hey Joe,my #5 nosler manual lists 59 grs as max for their 140 partition in your 264 with RL/22 ,that's with Winchester brass , just thought you'd like to know ,cheers !!!.