22-250 or 308

22Two50

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Feb 11, 2015
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8
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Greeneville, TN
Just getting back in to shooting again and need advice. I used to shoot a 22-250 but most shots were limited to 500 yds. and under. I know the 22-250 is a tack driver at this distance but now I have a location to shoot at 1000+ yds. I will be getting a Rem 700 SPS Varmint but should I stay with the 22-250 or go with the 308? I've heard of 1000 yard shots with the 22-250 so is there any real gain going to the 308?
 
Split the difference and get a .243 Winchester! That's what I did and it has worked out great! Has the speed and flat shooting of a .22-250 with the energy of a .308! Then when the .243 barrel is gone, thread a new barrel on chambered in .260 Remington or .260 AI, if you reload and want a little more downrange ballistics. :D gun)
 
For a 22-250 to be a good long range gun, the standard twist of the 22-250 barrel of 1-14 or 1-12 is not made for the heavy.224 bullets. But a custom barrel with a 1-7 twist would be a awsome low recoiling toy. A .308 with a 1-10 twist would be a choice.. But a .260 or 6.5 Creedmoor would be better choices..
 
For a 22-250 to be a good long range gun, the standard twist of the 22-250 barrel of 1-14 or 1-12 is not made for the heavy.224 bullets. But a custom barrel with a 1-7 twist would be a awsome low recoiling toy. A .308 with a 1-10 twist would be a choice.. But a .260 or 6.5 Creedmoor would be better choices..


x2 on the creedmoor, though a 22-250 pushing some of the heavy bergers would be a fun gun. I do however think every gun safe should have at least one 308 in it.
 
Just getting back in to shooting again and need advice. I used to shoot a 22-250 but most shots were limited to 500 yds. and under. I know the 22-250 is a tack driver at this distance but now I have a location to shoot at 1000+ yds. I will be getting a Rem 700 SPS Varmint but should I stay with the 22-250 or go with the 308? I've heard of 1000 yard shots with the 22-250 so is there any real gain going to the 308?

As mentioned, to get a 22-250 to 1000+ yards, you will need an aftermarket barrel with a 7 twist. I really enjoy shooting my 12 twist 22-250, but consider 600 yards to be about the practical limit with the bullets it is capable of utilizing.

If going with a 700 SPS, go with a .308 and put it in an aftermarket stock with an aluminum bedding block. Sierra Palma 155's (or the new Tipped Matchkings) or 175 SMK/TMK's, run as fast as you can push them, will get you there.

A factory rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor will most certainly get you to 1000.

The .243/6mm's will do it, too. But, they really need an 8 twist to get there. Most factory rifles, that I am aware of, use a 9 twist or slower. As with the 22-250, an aftermarket barrel would be required to get the job done.
 
I will be getting a Rem 700 SPS Varmint but should I stay with the 22-250 or go with the 308? I've heard of 1000 yard shots with the 22-250 so is there any real gain going to the 308?

The SPS Varmint isn't going to get you to 1000 yds in a 22-250. It comes from the factory with a 1-14" twist which won't let you stabilize the heavier bullets required for the ballistic coefficient to get you to 1000 yds. You can forget 1000 yd shots with that rifle, ain't gonna happen. You'd need to rebarrel it with at least a 1-8" twist to shoot bullets heavy enough to get to 1000 yds.

The 308 SPS Varmint will work. It comes with a 1-12" twist which will stabilize a 190 sierra matchking. Either the 190 matchking or 175 matchking will get you to 1000 yds. out of a .308, but just barely. There are several choices from Berger and Hornady that will get you there also.

There are better choices than a 1-12" 308 for 1000 yd shooting, but it'll work. a 1-14" twist 22-250 won't. If you're limiting your choice to a remington SPS Varmint in those two calibers then the 308 is the only one that will work for 1000 yd shooting.
 
I will definitely take a look at the 6.5 Creedmore. Looks like the Savage model 12 is the best factory gun, without getting into the custom gun price level, or have I missed one?
 
You didn't mention a budget, but you could get a used savage and put on the barrel with the caliber you want (properly twisted of course) for about the same money...all by yourself. IMO, the new 700s are not what they use to be. I'd even get a used 700 and rebarrel it, but that's not as simple if you don't have access to a lathe.
 
I was going to get one of the 6.5 Creed Rugers but they sold out. I looked around and picked up a Vanguard S2 brand new for a little over $500. I've been trying to measure out a 1,000 yards here at the house but I'll be shooting across a public road. :rolleyes:

Anyway, the little Vanguard is shooting way less than a MOA at 500 yards with Hornady 6.5 Creed 120 grain Match ammo. I'm saving the brass but with the factory ammo doing so well I'd rather just shoot it. I'm gonna try it at a 1,000, cars be damned. gun)
 
I was going to get one of the 6.5 Creed Rugers but they sold out. I looked around and picked up a Vanguard S2 brand new for a little over $500. I've been trying to measure out a 1,000 yards here at the house but I'll be shooting across a public road. :rolleyes:

Anyway, the little Vanguard is shooting way less than a MOA at 500 yards with Hornady 6.5 Creed 120 grain Match ammo. I'm saving the brass but with the factory ammo doing so well I'd rather just shoot it. I'm gonna try it at a 1,000, cars be damned. gun)



Does the Vanguard have a heavy barrel, can't tell from their website?
 
Why not just buy a Savage, with the Accustock (aluminum chassis ), chambered in 260 rem or 6.5 creedmore or even .243, and be all ready to go from the start? No real need for a bunch of aftermarket parts. Plenty flat shooting. Model 10 or 12.
 
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