So tell me, when you shoulder the rifle and the scope is at full magnification do you have any issues obtaining the eyebox without having to get up on the scope?
The reason I say that is because it appears to me that the scope is sitting a bit forward in the mounts but then, you might have a short length of pull.....
You want the eye box at full magnification to be in full view when you have the best cheek weld on the stock rise without having to move your head to obtain the field of view, something that has to be done on a shooting mat if you shoot prone or on a bench if you shoot benchrest or in a different position if you shoot offhand.
From the pictures we can't tell if the horizontal cross hair is parallel with the base and the receiver, only you can do that.
I don't see any telltale thread locker (which will leave a glossy film around the screw heads or if you pull a mounting screw,goo on the threads themselves). The ring gap looks to be pretty equal on both sides but were they torqued to specification and progressively? Finally, was the rail purchased after the rifle or did the rail come with the rifle, already mounted? I'm always suspect of the rail to receiver mount. Like I said previously, I've found almost every one on my rifles to be loose from the factory. I like to torque the rail screws to 25 inch pounds with thread locker on the threads and a bit of thread locker between the rail and the top of the receiver to insure it don't move at all.
Typical torque on the ring mounting screws will be from 25-35 inch pounds, progressively, with thread locker again, keeping a close eye on the upper to lower ring gaps to insure they are equal.
Finally, while I have no issue with an Evolution Gun Works (EGW) rail, some on here have had issues with a poor rail to receiver match, that is, the underside radius of the rail don't match the radius of the receiver.
If it was me, I'd put the rifle in a gun vise (like a Tipton) and pull the scope, the rings and the rail all the while looking for thread locker on the threads. I'd make sure the rail radius matches the receiver contour (radius) and remount the rail to the receiver using thread locker and the proper torx bit with a torque indicating tool like a Wheeler Fat Wrench.
Then reset the rings and locktite the ring mounts and torque to 30-35 inch pounds. Set the upper ring halves on with a 30mm lapping bar and compound and tighten the ring mount screws to where the lapping bar has resistance and lap the bores, removing enough material to provide a new bearing surface for the scope. Pull the upper halves, clean the lapping compound off the rings and set the scope in the lower halves and adjust your eyebox to where at maximum magnification, you have a clear field of view in the most comfortable for you shooting position. I mark the scope tube with a witness mark (paint marker) for later alignment.
Then you need to level and align the cant. I use precision machinist levels but I understand there are other tools you can use. I set the rifle level in the gun vise with a level across the rail (or receiver if there is a flat area perpendicular to the action) and get the rifle tight in the gun vise. The I set the scope in the lower halves (paying attention to the witness mark for the eyebox) and install the upper halves and just snug down the screws so you can rotate the scope without moving the rifle. Set a level on the top of the upper turret and center the bubble. The cross hair is now on a level plane with the receiver and the vertical cross hair is at 90 degrees to the centerline of the receiver.
Apply a bit of thread locker to the mounting screws and progressively torque them in an X pattern to 25-35 inch pounds (depending on the screw diameter)( the spec can be obtained from the ring manufacturer btw.).... The boresight using the old standby laser boresighter or pull the bolt and sight through the bore at a dot on the wall, centering the dot in the bore and clicking the scope cross hairs to center the dot as well. I use a cheapo muzzle laser. That gets me on paper. the rest is at the range.
Finally, before you mount the scope, pull the upper turret and remove all the C-shaped shims. Thats the Vortex zero stop. That scope should have plenty of elevation and windage adjustment to compensate for manufacturing tolerances in the rail and ring sets. I have the same scope on my 338 and I have plenty of extra adjustment. I too have an EGW rail in 20 MOA cant.
I use 232 blue medium strength threadlocker.
No box store gun shop will do what I described above. They don't know how and if they do, it takes too long and time is money. Your time is cheap plus you want it done right. They care less.
Nice looking piece BTW. One I'd never let anyone else fool with.....
As said before the scope should have more than enough adjustment. Bed the base and the stock while you ate it to.gun)
