Does anyone use a scope with 1/8 adjustments? I was checking out the Nikon 5-20 and it has 1/8 adj. Will this work out to say 700 yards? I'm up in the air between this monarch, a leup 6-18, and a leup 6.5-20. I really like the new monarchs, I'm just afraid of that 1/8 adjustment. Any thoughts/opinions will be appreciated.
1/8 moa adjustments
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shootinfool
Well-Known Member
My brother had a really nice burris scope with the 1/8 clicks and it only got his 300 rum out to 900. He traded up to the leupold with 1\4 clicks and in their long range scope and it gets him far, far past 1000. Can't go wrong with the leupy's in my opinion. The 1\8 clicks will allow you to dial in more closely though.
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Its the total range of adjustment that is important not the graduation of the clicks.
If the Nikon has enough range which depends on the flatness of the cartridge you are shooting then there is just twice as many clicks in an MOA to make the adjustment.
I shoot a Weaver Tactical on a 270 AM w/ 1/8th clicks. It has plenty of range for the AM. (on the order of 20 MOA @ 1K w/200 yd zero) If the rifle is sufficiently accurate its a bit of a confidence builder to see the 1/8th MOA adjustment on the target. SEG
Free advice to not discount the IMPORTANCE of light transmission. The more the better, ALWAYS.
All of the scopes you are considering will track accurately but at the beginning and end of the day when the light is going down and the animals are coming out the scope that transmits more light and with the reticle of your preference will always be the better buy. Even if it cost more!
Spend that money right and you only have to spend it once.
If the Nikon has enough range which depends on the flatness of the cartridge you are shooting then there is just twice as many clicks in an MOA to make the adjustment.
I shoot a Weaver Tactical on a 270 AM w/ 1/8th clicks. It has plenty of range for the AM. (on the order of 20 MOA @ 1K w/200 yd zero) If the rifle is sufficiently accurate its a bit of a confidence builder to see the 1/8th MOA adjustment on the target. SEG
Free advice to not discount the IMPORTANCE of light transmission. The more the better, ALWAYS.
All of the scopes you are considering will track accurately but at the beginning and end of the day when the light is going down and the animals are coming out the scope that transmits more light and with the reticle of your preference will always be the better buy. Even if it cost more!
Spend that money right and you only have to spend it once.
Royinidaho--the nikon has 40 moa, the Leupolds have more. Do you think 40 is enough for a 300wm out to 700 yds? I guess I could get a tapered base, so it probably doesn't matter.
devildoc
Well-Known Member
If your scope is in the center of its adjustment, if you have 40MOA of total adjustment you'll only have 20MOA for come-ups. Which ought to get you out to 700 if you're shooting a decent load without any difficulty in a 300winmag. 20MOA at 700 yards is worth about 140" of drop.
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
As devildoc says, if every thing is perfect you have only 1/2 of the scope MOA to work with.
I would consider the Burris Sig rings with the plastic inserts. Then order the offset inserts that will give you as much as 20 MOA increase. This means that the rifle will be zeroed @ say 100 yds with the elevation turret towards its bottom setting which gives you much more of the 40 MOA in the scope for use. Which should be plenty for now and future reaching out.
This is less expensive than the tapered base arrangement and seems to serve me well on a 338 RUM and 270 AM even after a pretty decent fall with the AM. Nothin' moved.
Plus I venture to guess that you will be ticked if you are good to 700 yds, your drop chart probably will be developed for farther and you have adjustment to 750 and your only shot that year is at 875.
I would consider the Burris Sig rings with the plastic inserts. Then order the offset inserts that will give you as much as 20 MOA increase. This means that the rifle will be zeroed @ say 100 yds with the elevation turret towards its bottom setting which gives you much more of the 40 MOA in the scope for use. Which should be plenty for now and future reaching out.
This is less expensive than the tapered base arrangement and seems to serve me well on a 338 RUM and 270 AM even after a pretty decent fall with the AM. Nothin' moved.
Plus I venture to guess that you will be ticked if you are good to 700 yds, your drop chart probably will be developed for farther and you have adjustment to 750 and your only shot that year is at 875.
1Hunter
Well-Known Member
Here's a question I would like an answer to. My scope has 1/8 moa marks
which means the elevation Tower Knob is made up of 8 segments of 16 marks ea. 128 marks total.
One segment is 16 marks = 1" at 100 yds. Would it be logical to assume
that 32 marks would equal = 2" at 200 Yards. ? That 48 marks would 3" and
be the number 3 on the scope equaling 300 yards? and so on around
the tower. ending up with 8" @ 800 yards. Continuing up adding 16 marks at a time.
One fact seems to stick. What ever number of equal marks it takes to complete the segment it is equal to 1" or 1 moa at 100 yards. Whether
it's 4. 8. or 16.
I have read several posts on this subject and somewhere we take a left turn
and I get lost.
which means the elevation Tower Knob is made up of 8 segments of 16 marks ea. 128 marks total.
One segment is 16 marks = 1" at 100 yds. Would it be logical to assume
that 32 marks would equal = 2" at 200 Yards. ? That 48 marks would 3" and
be the number 3 on the scope equaling 300 yards? and so on around
the tower. ending up with 8" @ 800 yards. Continuing up adding 16 marks at a time.
One fact seems to stick. What ever number of equal marks it takes to complete the segment it is equal to 1" or 1 moa at 100 yards. Whether
it's 4. 8. or 16.
I have read several posts on this subject and somewhere we take a left turn
and I get lost.
1Hunter
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your reply. Yes, you are right it is 1.046" @ 100 yards.
What I need, is the extrapolation method correct.?
I have a 3 shot 1.5" moa group at 100 yards at 12 O'Clock 2.5" high
of center.
I can add the .046 later.
man, I wiggle more that that.
What I need, is the extrapolation method correct.?
I have a 3 shot 1.5" moa group at 100 yards at 12 O'Clock 2.5" high
of center.
I can add the .046 later.
man, I wiggle more that that.
No, In simple form a 1'' adjust=1''@100,that =2''at 200 and so on.If you adjust 2'' or 16 clicks in your case=4''at 200,6''at 300, and .....
1Hunter
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your input.
Keep all your shots in the middle.
Keep all your shots in the middle.
fred64
Well-Known Member
1 HUNTER, we will be at COOSA in the morning, 0900, 4-22-13. I don't remember if I asked if you do trigger work???
1Hunter
Well-Known Member
Fred 64
No, I haven't done any trigger work. Yet everything I have
seems to work well, where it's at. Except my 30 - 30 win pre
64. I need to rework the safety button when lever is closed.
My last three purchases have adjustable triggers.
I hope to be at the range by 12: am tomorrow.
I made some shims for the 223 scope base and now my zero
setting is a hundred yards, seven and one half minutes down
from the top. which leaves 40 min to the bottom. Only need
twenty three .6 minutes for a 1000 yds
No, I haven't done any trigger work. Yet everything I have
seems to work well, where it's at. Except my 30 - 30 win pre
64. I need to rework the safety button when lever is closed.
My last three purchases have adjustable triggers.
I hope to be at the range by 12: am tomorrow.
I made some shims for the 223 scope base and now my zero
setting is a hundred yards, seven and one half minutes down
from the top. which leaves 40 min to the bottom. Only need
twenty three .6 minutes for a 1000 yds
fred64
Well-Known Member
well, I have no memory. i thought you were the one told me about trigger work.
I get to talkin with folks and forget sometimes who I heard what from.
sounds like you know what your doin.
I put a bushnell elite 3200--10X mil dot on the new 06. its a mil/mil reticule. graduated in tenths. simpler for me than the others. I like the others too and have a check in my wallet for the one you have. numbers of any kind are a challenge for me. 1 2 3 7 5 8 9---see.
went yote hunting with Hank this morning. found them on the second hide. but couldn't bring them in. am going to get a fox-pro.
I have a good load for the new 06. a 180 gameking on top of 57.0 gr of H4831, fed bench rest primer and win case, and a lee factory crimp. might be my imagination but seems like the crimp is adding to the smaller group. 1/2 in for 5 at 100 yards. it chroneys' at an average of 2510fps. just a cheap new original design vanguard. ive never used H4831 before, but was all I could find. seems to work good with this rifle/round.
see you at the range tomorrow. have a good evening.
I get to talkin with folks and forget sometimes who I heard what from.
sounds like you know what your doin.
I put a bushnell elite 3200--10X mil dot on the new 06. its a mil/mil reticule. graduated in tenths. simpler for me than the others. I like the others too and have a check in my wallet for the one you have. numbers of any kind are a challenge for me. 1 2 3 7 5 8 9---see.
went yote hunting with Hank this morning. found them on the second hide. but couldn't bring them in. am going to get a fox-pro.
I have a good load for the new 06. a 180 gameking on top of 57.0 gr of H4831, fed bench rest primer and win case, and a lee factory crimp. might be my imagination but seems like the crimp is adding to the smaller group. 1/2 in for 5 at 100 yards. it chroneys' at an average of 2510fps. just a cheap new original design vanguard. ive never used H4831 before, but was all I could find. seems to work good with this rifle/round.
see you at the range tomorrow. have a good evening.
