barrel crown type

having the barrel on my .06 shortened so now I wonder if there is one barrel crown better for using a suppressor I have always had an 11degree crown done but wonder if there is a better crown to go with

Definitely interested in what information you get here as I have the same question.

11 degree crown makes for easy cleaning of the crown as it gets pretty carboned up with suppressor on.

Do a search on this site.A test was done shortening a barrel with a hacksaw and accuracy results.

The crown is more for protection, running a silencer it really does not matter.

I really did not think it mattered but there are a lot more people that know more than I do thanks

This is just my observation with muzzle brakes. It may be a different outcome with a can... 11 crowns stay alot cleaner that a recessed crown with a muzzle brake. I assume it may be a similar situation with a can

Some prefer to match the boatail angle of the bullet being used. But I have no opinion in the matter.

It doesn't matter, I've never been able to tell a real accuracy difference between any of them.

Once I started cleaning my suppressed muzzles with CLR on a qtip, neither are easier to clean over another.

An 11 degree crown with a 60 degree centering recess is optimal, or an 11 degree alone will work just fine.

The biggest thing in my opinion, is that whoever does the work needs to polish the muzzle to 800 or 1000 grit and final it with some type of polish like Flitz.

This helps to dissuade the carbon and makes for easier cleaning of the muzzle when using a brake or suppressor.

Remember- the crown is the last thing a bullet touches as it leaves the barrel, so it needs to be sharp! No dings or galling.

It is VERY surprising how important this is.

With muzzle breaks and suppressors I always cut with a 90 degree (flat) and 60 degree recess at bore.

Chamberman said:

An 11 degree crown with a 60 degree centering recess is optimal, or an 11 degree alone will work just fine.

The biggest thing in my opinion, is that whoever does the work needs to polish the muzzle to 800 or 1000 grit and final it with some type of polish like Flitz.

This helps to dissuade the carbon and makes for easier cleaning of the muzzle when using a brake or suppressor.

Remember- the crown is the last thing a bullet touches as it leaves the barrel, so it needs to be sharp! No dings or galling.

It is VERY surprising how important this is.

Click to expand...

My understanding is the bullet never touches the crown only the end of the barrel inside. The crown controls the initial departure of the bullet leaving the pressurized barrel and beginning the free flight. Even concentric contour of the crown aids in controlling the final pressure of gasses upon the bullet base to ensure perfect sendoff. Sort of like the finger tips being the final control of a basketball shot. Damaged, imperfect crown results in imperfect final pressure on bullet base and can result in pressure imbalance turbulence on bullet base.....fingers not aligned toward rim, off center on the basketball.

Pro2A said:

My understanding is the bullet never touches the crown only the end of the barrel inside. The crown controls the initial departure of the bullet leaving the pressurized barrel and beginning the free flight. Even concentric contour of the crown aids in controlling the final pressure of gasses upon the bullet base to ensure perfect sendoff. Sort of like the finger tips being the final control of a basketball shot. Damaged, imperfect crown results in imperfect final pressure on bullet base and can result in pressure imbalance turbulence on bullet base.....fingers off center on the basketball.

Click to expand...

That's what i was trying to relay.

Years ago Precision Shooting magazine did a test where they damaged a barrel crown progressively to see how it would affect accuracy. If I recall it took quite a bit of damage to degrade accuracy. It really surprised me.
I have always favored the 11 degree but maybe it does not make much difference as long as it is done well?