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I suggest those using a torch consider the salt bath method. Speaking as a former manufacturing engineer this method is pretty easy to keep under process control, so once you get the temp stabilized and your timing down, you should be good to go. Plus it's amazingly cost effective compared to some of the more sophisticated annealing equipment available.
Tubs has stated he gets 4 to 5 loads out of his brass before he trashes it. This is their method for getting the best accuracy. Competing at the highest level he has to do what gives him the best accuracy regardless of cost.
There is also a DIY version of this that will run about $15.00 in materials, plus propane bottle cost.Check this out, I am placing an order next pay half
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Not to argue, but I hear this all the time and for some it may be true. My philosophy is simple, the more you do to make everything consistent the better your accuracy. If you reach the point that you are satisfied then don't worry about any more accuracy. I don't have a combined reloading experience of 100 years, Just 60 years of my own successes and failures, and went from 1 MOA to best group for a hunting rifle of .034 thousandths by doing everything I could for consistency. It is not the norm to have everything shoot this well and excepting that the rifle will out shoot me gives me comfort and confidence, as a rifle builder I cant ever get the attitude that 'It'll be ok' or 'that's close enough' or I'm done.
Most can get 4 without having hardened necks. I think we have to keep it on par with the average guy who may or may not benefit. For me, I will run 15-20 reloads out of my brass. 2 issues, cracking and tension. I notice after 4-5 that the spring back on the brass is bad enough that tension is a problem. I also notice that after I anneal the brass will only go another 1-2 before the spring back seems to be a problem again. If you are shooting for 1.5-2 thou on tension then this is an issue. If you are at 4-5 thou and all the sudden at 2-3, it won't matter as much. It also doesn't matter if you crimp. So I guess I all sort of depends on what a person is doing and expecting.
I not sure how you came to the conclusion that it doesn't matter if you crimp as it very well does make a difference
Crimping 30,000 5.56 cases lead to me to see no difference in tension. Brass life was not the issue in the neck but it was an issue in the web. I wasn't able to see any difference in crimped annealed brass vs non for sd. I shot 100 rounds for a test of each and they were exactly the same.
I'm not doubting you a bit as I have never loaded 5.56 but I have loaded a slough of other stuff and crimping does make difference, I use the Lee FCD exclusively and have and have done a lot of testing and I assure you that any crimp will increase neck tension and powder ignition dwell time thus affecting accuracy SD and ES, I have a thread on crimping on this site about using the Lee FCD and I've changed a lot of folks mind about the concept, all apologies to the OP about getting sidetracked
I never said crimping doesn't affect tension or anything closely related to crimping not being effective. I said annealing doesn't have much if any effect on crimped cases. Annealing is for brass neck life and metal elasticity. Elasticity is the issue with tension when using bushing dies and non-crimp sizing dies.
