Rem 700 Primary Extraction RR serial #

OG10 said:

I had the same problem ser#RR took it to my smith retimed the bolt handle welded it together in a jig he has and had it back the next day.Where are you located ? There is a thread on snipetshide on this same problem, with some good utube videos. This can help you verify your issues. Good luck

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I am in the Dallas area. Dan with accu-tig responded to me this morning. I am taking the measurements that he needs tonight and shipping the bolt off to him tomorrow. Also, adding a PTG threaded bolt handle while I am at it.

I will update when the bolt returns and I get chance to fire the rifle again.

Edd said:

Doesn't accu-tig want the bolt only?

I don't think the repair can be done correctly without having the receiver and the bolt.

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No Dan has you take a couple measurements with the SN and he knows what and how to get it correct and all he needs is the bolt.

My story might not completely apply, but here goes...

I was developing loads for a .358" magnum mildcat of my personal design. Every so often, I'd get a sticky bolt on my M700. After a day of swearing at the bolt and a nasty cut to one of my fingers, I came back the next time with a 3/16" brass rod of 36" long. I never had a problem unlocking the bolt, just the extraction of the case. When comes a sticky bolt it's unlocked, the brass rod goes down the barrel and I push the case out with minimal difficulty. A simple solution that saved the day after a ten-mile drive into the desert to shoot for hours with no one for miles around...

nvschütze said:

My story might not completely apply, but here goes...

I was developing loads for a .358" magnum mildcat of my personal design. Every so often, I'd get a sticky bolt on my M700. After a day of swearing at the bolt and a nasty cut to one of my fingers, I came back the next time with a 3/16" brass rod of 36" long. I never had a problem unlocking the bolt, just the extraction of the case. When comes a sticky bolt it's unlocked, the brass rod goes down the barrel and I push the case out with minimal difficulty. A simple solution that saved the day after a ten-mile drive into the desert to shoot for hours with no one for miles around...

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Why not just fix the problem and be done with it.

Paul
www.boltfluting.com

PPR said:

Why not just fix the problem and be done with it.

Paul
www.boltfluting.com

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What? And quit carrying a 36" long brass rod around ?

I had a similar problem with an MRC M1999 in 300WSM. Turns out I was sizing the cases and getting the shoulder too far down the case. The fix was to place feeler gauges between the mouth of the die and the shell-holder when it came time to resize the fired cases. What this does is to raise the shoulder more toward the mouth of the case, which moves the head more toward the face of the bolt. Once the head is close to the face of the bolt, the extractor can grab the rim and pull out the fired case. It was discovered that the WSM needed .0025" of spacing for a good grab on the rim and reliable extraction. When I designed and implemented my 300NDM mildcat, I needed .004" to get reliable extraction.

If your bolt just flops down because of gravity once the firing mechanism has been removed, the shoulder is too far down the case-- which means the head is too far from the face of the bolt.

I'd try spacing your resizing die .002" inches above the shell-holder. DO NOT force the bolt closed. If the bolt will not close as it should, you'll end-up galling the lugs and creating a busload of problems. I suggest you procure a Kleinendorst tool so as to feel the bolt turn into the lugs without the pressure of the firing spring corrupting what you'll feel. You'll know you have the headspace set correctly when you feel just the slightest drag when you rotate and lock-down the bolt on a resized case.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...remington-bolt-disassembly-tool-prod7650.aspx

PPR said:

Why not just fix the problem and be done with it.

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The "problem" that needed fixing was to load ammo that was not so over-pressured that the bolt could not be retracted. The brass rod was to save the day in case I got a bolt so sticky that it was not possible to affect retraction. There is no reloading data for my .358" mildcat, which can be said to be a .35 Whelen Magnum. If you feel so inclined, look-up the .358 Sierra Stomper. That's my round. It's a sledgehammer: 4092 foot-pounds of muzzle energy from a 250-grain bullet at 2715 fps.

I personally would not pay ANYONE to "time" my action without the complete action in their hands. Maybe it will be close or better but not the best it can be. Maybe the primary extraction can be fixed this way but if I am paying I would want it right meaning the primary extraction and the cock on close gone.

Trigger timing and extraction timing are 2 different things. Trigger timing involves the hand-off of the cocking piece to the trigger, and will not be accomplished with bolt handle placement. Extraction timing is proper bolt handle placement on the bolt body so the cam on the handle and the cam on the receiver body 'meet', thus giving the fired cartridge case mechanical extraction from the chamber so the bolt can be freely manipulated to eject the fired case. As the bolt then moves forward and then the handle lowered is when the hand-off of cocking piece to trigger takes place. Careful removal of metal from the cocking piece, until the hand-off runs smoothly, without the hand-off involving more retraction of the firing pin. Trigger timing should not be adjusted until extraction timing is fixed.

shortgrass said:

Trigger timing and extraction timing are 2 different things. Trigger timing involves the hand-off of the cocking piece to the trigger, and will not be accomplished with bolt handle placement. Extraction timing is proper bolt handle placement on the bolt body so the cam on the handle and the cam on the receiver body 'meet', thus giving the fired cartridge case mechanical extraction from the chamber so the bolt can be freely manipulated to eject the fired case. As the bolt then moves forward and then the handle lowered is when the hand-off of cocking piece to trigger takes place. Careful removal of metal from the cocking piece, until the hand-off runs smoothly, without the hand-off involving more retraction of the firing pin. Trigger timing should not be adjusted until extraction timing is fixed.

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Yes and in a 700 and almost all clones you can not do anything with the trigger proper. I am completely aware of the difference. Cock on close and timing are fixed with bolt work. If you have an action with a hanger it is a different story. My point is If I am paying to have my action worked on I will have everything fixed at once. I would have Alex Wheeler do the work. I realize the OP most likely has already had the work done but for new readers...

Ever get that bolt fixed ?

shortgrass said:

What? And quit carrying a 36" long brass rod around?

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Transporting the rod was never a problem. It fit very nicely into the rifle's case and like a nuclear weapon, it was always there until its need became absolutely necessary...

I'm probably going to get flamed but, I actually fixed it myself. It wasnt the voodoo that I thought it was.

A little heat to pull the handle off, a set of feeler gauges, a heat sink, a modified vise grip, and a tig welder is all that was needed.

I moved the handle forward by .015" to a gap of .010" between the front of the handle and the cut in the receiver. I advanced it slightly to get a little more cam action between the two surfaces and tacked it in place to test it all out.

I put a piece of tape around the case head to simulate a case that needed some extra primary extraction. The bolt was sticky all the way up to the came action and it ripped the case right out.

No issues to report. All is good in the neighborhood.

Well good for you! Nice job!!!

Tony