Full Length vs Neck Sizing!

A while back we all thought that neck sizing was the ticket , then we started seeing tight in and tighter coming out after that full size for me all the time
I can buy more brass

Exactly. Erik makes a good point. A quality Full Length die such as Wilson, Whidden, etc... will not over size the brass like a cheaper die such as rcbs or hornady. Yes, technically or scientifically a neck die will, in theory, prolong case life but the difference is negligible. 100pcs of quality brass will generally last the life of any barrel. I have 6br and 6.5x47L brass with over 30 firings all sized with a FL die. Like you I will take buying brass over the down sides of neck sizing

sturner said:

A while back we all thought that neck sizing was the ticket , then we started seeing tight in and tighter coming out after that full size for me all the time
I can buy more brass

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I'm using Match grade neck sizing dies and they work for me. I set headspace back .001-.002. I prefer the neck sizing to get the neck tension I want. Like I said, so far works for me.

I use FL Redding S bushing dies get same neck tension every time and I bump the shoulder back .001

Somebody straighten me out if I'm wrong here but I want to clarify that bumping the shoulder back 0.002" is not necessarily happening every firing. You are setting your dies to bump the shoulder AT MOST 0.002". If you set the shoulder back 0.002" after every firing but your brass only grows 0.001" per firing eventually you will...I dunno have some messed up brass. There will be a lot of trips up into the sizing die where your shoulder won't get moved at all because your brass hasn't grown far enough. That is the essence of minimally sizing the brass.

Think about what's happening in the die. The last part to be touched is the shoulder. Before this happens the base is squeezed pushing the shoulder forward. Then at the last step the should gets bumped back in place. Hope this makes since.

Minimal sizing refers to a die that doesn't over size a die. If you have an oversized chamber and a die that over sizes the brass. Your going to prematurely wear out your cases.

A die that sizes as minimal as possible to avoid issues, is what people recommend. When done properly it is indisputable that full length sizing is currently the best method reloaders have to develop the most accurate hand loads with the least Side effects.

fightthenoise said:

Somebody straighten me out if I'm wrong here but I want to clarify that bumping the shoulder back 0.002" is not necessarily happening every firing. You are setting your dies to bump the shoulder AT MOST 0.002". If you set the shoulder back 0.002" after every firing but your brass only grows 0.001" per firing eventually you will...I dunno have some messed up brass. There will be a lot of trips up into the sizing die where your shoulder won't get moved at all because your brass hasn't grown far enough. That is the essence of minimally sizing the brass.

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Folks should be bumping to x.xxx number -as measured, every case, every time.

I use the bump neck size die from Forster. Keeps the body precisely formed and adjusts the necessary parts.
TIR is less than .002".
Most common Fl dies really overworks the brass. Custom is very different.
I'd I were to FL size, I'd use a body die and collet die. Or a FL bushing die.

I have neck sized for 10 years...BUT..I also check my shoulders and length after each firing..,the shoulder will grow on ya and one day, you WILL slide the bolt forward to find its hard to lock your bolt...which is why I check shoulders every firing. After 3 firings I Anneal and FL size, check shoulders and length, then go back to neck sizing.
After reading the advice on LRH and the vast majority FL size with a bump...I have dedicated my new 6.5 Grendel to FL sizing only...and so far I'm happy with the accuracy. I am going to a FL with Neck bushings to see if I can tighten up the group. If you don't use a dedicated NECK Sizer Only, at least use a FL with Neck Bushings. I'm sure all will agree that Neck Tension is one of the biggest parts of an accurate reload. I shoot 100-300 yards...the guys on here shooting 1000+ know their stuff, and what helps or hurts. I enjoy my Lee Collets, the ease of use, wonderful accuracy but LRH crew has me trying a new approach on a couple of guns. If nothing else, it gives me an excuse to shoot more !

The best never comes from the majority..
Every human advancement arose from people who left the majority. Right?
It's always a choice

Bad in my younger days reloading, early '70s, I was trying to get my newly barrelled custom 25-06 to shoot really small groups. I noticed a single sentence in RCBS die instructions that mentioned "partial" sizing. They recommended running the FL die into the press until it touched the shell holder then back out 1/2 turn. I shot the brass, reformed LC 30-06 WWII brass 10 load cycles before the final retirement. I've tried that on other rifles with mixed results which has lead me to believe that each is a "law unto itself". I now use match sizing dies since I no longer hunt anything other than paper, knees are shot.

NS will eventually bite you in the axx during a match or in the field. There is a reason 99.9% of top shooters FL size each and every time.

Been FL bumping shoulders back .002 on my 300WSM for almost 10 years. Used WW nickel plated brass mainly, plus some WW brass brass. I have 10 to 12 reloads on them and have yet to have a case fail. I have started culling out and going to all Norma/Nosler due to it being the lowest ES of any brass I tried. Think I have about 1200 plus down the tube. I anneal after every other firing and trim as needed. Never have had any issue chambering rounds.

fightthenoise said:

Somebody straighten me out if I'm wrong here but I want to clarify that bumping the shoulder back 0.002" is not necessarily happening every firing. You are setting your dies to bump the shoulder AT MOST 0.002". If you set the shoulder back 0.002" after every firing but your brass only grows 0.001" per firing eventually you will...I dunno have some messed up brass. There will be a lot of trips up into the sizing die where your shoulder won't get moved at all because your brass hasn't grown far enough. That is the essence of minimally sizing the brass.

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It may take a couple firings on new brass to reach max dimension based on your chamber depending on how stout your load is. But once your brass reaches that point it should be fairly consistent. One trick is to seat new brass into the lands on the first firing. Guys who are wildcatting and forming brass use this technique.