Shooting Chrony

i used to have the original shooting chrony w the little oval holes in cardboard that worked well. Then for years I used a pro chrono (till my buddy shot it ) that said the loads in question were within 15 fps. I just unboxed the newer model shooting chrony master and it's telling me those same loads are 180 fps difference and almost half the time says "error". Im getting a new pro chrono to verify but was wondering if anyone uses the new shooting chrony and is having the same problem?

A guess on the chrony. The ones i have seen had the sensors mounted with double stick foam tape. One of the sensors may have shifted out of alignment or be lose.

I had one of those things you fold in half to put it away. Junk. Hard to use. I think they come in several colors and are made in Canada. I went with the one depicted below and have never looked back. The clips on the uprights are where I place the crosshairs to avoid shooting the body of it. The blue line represents where the bullet will go. The golf shaft is how the set-up is aimed. Works every time...

I started out using one years ago. I didn't know it then but have since learned that once you unfold it, make sure it flat (fully open) and that it is level and parallel with the barrel of your rifle. By that I mean you don't want your bullet crossing 7.5" over the front sensor and 6" over the rear sensor. Or over the right side of the front eye and the left side of the rear eye. I think it's calibrated to be the same distance over each sensor and parallel with them.
Also, if you don't have a light kit and using ambient light, the sun gets low and not enough light reaches the sensor or hits it at low angles you get errors or exaggerated readings.
I've owned/used a couple different optical sensor type chrono's over the years (probably like half the members on here) and the first chance I got I went with the LabRadar. It's pricey but I think worth every dime.
Check out this link for some good reading:
https://precisionrifleblog.com/2012...ctical-tips-to-increase-accuracy-reliability/

Yep they have to be level and square. I have a Bata master and have used it for years with few problems. You also need to have a good strong battery. I use a camera tripod to mount mine on and it allows setting it up easy.

Thank You. Good info on the precision rifle blog. It was folded out flat, level, and square. If it's out of level or partially folded it will give bad readings, but CONSISTENT bad readings. If I find out it was accurate and my loads are that messed up you'll see a grown man cry.

Labradar was the worst reloading tool I've purchased. My Shooting Chrony had me very impressed with all my guns. They were all fast. It was awesome. Shooting Chrony told me so, consistently. Then I tried a Labradar and everything was slow, consistently by about 50 - 75fps. Stupid Labradar.

And thanks for the Labradar info. I looked it up and I think you guys just cost me $400

We all really enjoy spending other people's money.

I was looking at the Oehler 89 to play with

sturner said:

I was looking at the Oehler 89 to play with

Click to expand...

I looked it up and there's some good info on that site as well...
https://oehler-research.com/system-89/

I've been using their chrono they send out an update every couple of months on the 89's progress

My chronograph needs to be on same plane, bullet travels parallel to sensors, no slightly left on one and right on the other. No shadows falling across it.
It worked well except for my 338, it seemed as if I was reloading incorrectly as speeds varied a bit too much and I was getting error messages also. I needed to set it another four feet away as the exhaust gasses were interfering with the sensors.

I took a piece of metal and made a deflector added to the front of my Bata Master mainly to keep the black powder residue from getting into it and just in case the sabot from my muzzle loader was to hit it but it does deflect muzzle blast enough to allow me to use anything with it set 10 feet away.