Sako Finnbear L61R extraction issues

I have an L61R in 7Mag that was my dads deer rifle while I was growing up. He has since passed and now it belongs to me. I don't recall issues with the extraction growing up while we shot it but unless you slam the bolt back it will not extract. There is not a spring plunger in the bolt face that makes it pop out at the case clears the action. There is just a cut-out in the back of the bolt with a piece on angled steel inside the action that when it is slammed against, the back of the case hits it and that pops the case out.

Like I said I do t remember any issues growing up but is this how it's supposed to be? Most of the time the case just comes loose and stacks in the action making it almost a single shot and could be a pain in a hunting situation. Am I missing something? Is some thing broke, or can a springed plunger be added? Seems like a bad design but it is an older rifle.

The original high gloss stock had a bad warp in the forearm applying pressure to barrel. I have since had it re-stocked, action bedded and pillar bedded, trigger worked on, and Cerekoated. I am about ready to have it re-barreled but since it's a hunting rifle I have a little reservation about the trouble ejecting cases.

The bolt doesn't slide super easy either, especially after the Cerakoating so makes it that much more difficult to extract consitantly. Here are some pics of the bolt, action, and inside of the action.

What you have described and shown in your photos is how the Sako L61 action was made and functioned. From memory the bolt took a good backward pull to effectively eject the spent case. The ejector I believe is part of the bolt stop.

Frank de Haas made a comment in his Bolt Action Rifles about the Sako ejector and I quote " There are, however, a few things I'd like changed. I would like to see another ejector system used, one that would not require a slot cut into the locking lug. A plunger type ejector built in the bolt head would be preferred. "

https://sakocollectors.com/forum/threads/need-help-with-bolt-stop-ejector-for-l461.13867/#post-73375

check this out....with pics

Your ejector is missing. There should be a blade in the slot that you can see in your pic from the rear of the receiver. It is part of the bolt stop.

Your bolt release/bolt stop block does not appear to be cerekoated. I would think that whoever disassembled your rifle for the coating process lost the ejector and spring. I sure hope they still have them because parts for these older Sako's can be very difficult to come across. Do you still have the original stock?

Thank you guys for the response. I should have specified but it was doing this before I took to the gunsmith, I believe everything is there. The pic from the back of the action is showing the ejector and bolt stop I believe unless there is supposed to be 2 pieces? Those metal pieces are not Cerekoated inside but the rest of the inside action is.

Looking at the pics on the link from stonecreeks, mine doesn't protrude nearly as far into the bolt face, not even flush with the outside of the bolt face. Maybe that part is broken or wore? They talk about tig welding a little extension. Watching videos of other shooting it seems like theirs eject a lot better, but probably smoother and easier to get all the way back without binding.

Here are a few more pics. CV, yes I do have the original stock.

Just pulled out a couple of mine and they both are flush with the rim of the bolt face. Should have pulled them out earlier before I made the other comments. Yes yours is all there, maybe just a little worn down. My brass all ejects fine whether I want it three feet away or just on top of the bench. All of my Sako bolts are smooth as glass, that is just one of the features they have. My Tikka's are the same way.

CVCOBRA1 said:

Just pulled out a couple of mine and they both are flush with the rim of the bolt face. Should have pulled them out earlier before I made the other comments. Yes yours is all there, maybe just a little worn down. My brass all ejects fine whether I want it three feet away or just on top of the bench. All of my Sako bolts are smooth as glass, that is just one of the features they have. My Tikka's are the same way.

Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to look and post up. So it sounds like this is the system and mines all there? I thought initially maybe my spring was weak on the extractor but that probably wouldn't make a difference in ejecting. I'll see if I can find a drawing for the length of the ejector and maybe try to find a replacement or see if my gunsmith could tig weld a little extension on the tip for it. As you can see mine sits back from the end of the bolt face.

Tagging in. Like you I received my fathers Sako L61R 7mm. The bolt is very sticky and sluggish but it does eject. The harder I eject the farther it throws brass.

My question is how do I breakdown the bolt and remove the firing pin. I'm sure it has never been done and I would like to clean inspect and lubricator everything well. I have been unsuccessful in finding a good breakdown description or procedure on line. I would really appreciate any help.

I understand this is an old thread, but thought I would offer some help since I bet you still own this fine rifle! Those old guns were not designed for modern large turret scopes. I guarantee your brass is hitting the windage knob. A long eye relief scope may help. The dimensions of the scope matter. So does ring height. Try removing your scope and test ejection by cycling the bolt firmly. I bet it's fine. My solution was a Leupold Mark 4 4.5-14. I was able to slide it forward far enough for everything to work. You may need high rings for more clearance with your scope. Also…additional extractors are available from pacific tool (PTG) for not much money. Good luck. JP.