Switch barrel

I am looking at building a new switch barrel rifle. The components i am looking at is a bighorn reciever in a short action. And using the wto lug for the switch barrel. The calibers are 6 creed for prs in a chassis stock. A 6.5 rsaum and a 30 caliber of some sort in a bdl type stock for hunting. I am looking at running the hunting rounds long. What suggestions do ya'll have for the 30 caliber, mainly for elk and nilgai under 400 yards, and what internal box to use for the bdl stock? I am not reloading yet. But , I am getting components together to do so. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would go with a .300 WSM and use a Wyatt's extended mag box to load your rounds out to 2.990".

Agreed 300 wsm.

Under 400 yards, 308.

If you're open to suggestions about the switch barrel I would recommend forgoing the switch lug and simply screwing the barrel on and off. Torque the barrel with a torque wrench and crowfoot on muzzle flats like AI barrels have. It's a much simpler system that requires no permanent modifications. I have been running this on a TL3 for two years. Quite a few of my buddies are as well now. I've replicated this on a Tikka and run three barrels on it now.

https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/switch-barrel-addiction-do-i-have-a-problem.6961425/

reubenski said:

If you're open to suggestions about the switch barrel I would recommend forgoing the switch lug and simply screwing the barrel on and off. Torque the barrel with a torque wrench and crowfoot on muzzle flats like AI barrels have. It's a much simpler system that requires no permanent modifications. I have been running this on a TL3 for two years. Quite a few of my buddies are as well now. I've replicated this on a Tikka and run three barrels on it now.

https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/switch-barrel-addiction-do-i-have-a-problem.6961425/

Click to expand...

Funny, I've been discussing this same thing with my 'smith, and his suggestion was to do the same. The "old fashioned" barrel wrench way. This seems like a simpler and easier way to accomplish the same thing. Heck, even if the flats were machined into the barrel at the chamber-end...?

It really is so simple that a lot of people are convinced that you must have some sort of highly engineered clamping/ tensioning device. If you put the flats on the chamber end you'll have to remove the barreled action from the stock to access them and then you won't have anything to clamp on to the action. If you put the flats on the muzzle end you can leave the action in the stock and then just place the butt of the stock in between your feet on the ground or in between your thighs so when you wrench on the barrel flats the action is fixed and you have a way to apply or break torque. 20 - 40 ft/lbs is all you need.

Didn't realize the torque was so low... Yeah, that's really viable

Idk about the switchlug but many, many guys have quit using the Barloc due to POI issues. I have many barrels for my TL3 rifles and switching shouldered barrels is a breeze. I run 40-50lbs.

Wait for shot show in January if you intend to build a Saum or similar

Joe S.

I like the .308 Win out to 400 yards, like it a lot. Very handy. However with larger game I like a little more speed, so for elk I'd go with a WSM round.

Alright Joe from Little Creek: What's this "wait for SHOT show nonsense?"
Hooyah,
-b

https://www.terminusactions.com/ These are worth a look.

They are. And Joel's is a slick system.

SealTeam4 said:

Idk about the switchlug but many, many guys have quit using the Barloc due to POI issues. I have many barrels for my TL3 rifles and switching shouldered barrels is a breeze. I run 40-50lbs.

Wait for shot show in January if you intend to build a Saum or similar

Joe S.

Click to expand...

The general consensus I've seen is that the problem is solely due to shouldered barrels not being cut correctly. If the cut is too long then the Barloc bottoms out before providing sufficient tension between the barrel and the action which leads to the poi shift. On Savage prefit barrels using the nut you can screw the nut down far enough to ensure the full tension force is applied to the system which is why there aren't any issues with that system.

I have used the Barloc with both shouldered and prefit barrels, I had zero poi shift with the savage prefit barrels but did have it on two of my shouldered barrels. This required the barrel to be screwed on below that of a go gauge to get the shifting to stop. Once I get around to it I'm going to add a shim to the barrel to replace that missing metal which should fix the issue and allow me to headspace them on a go gauge without shifting.