What difference does the stock make?

All other things being equal, what difference does the stock make when it comes to accuracy. If the stock contour is the same and the barrel, receiver, bullet, powder, primer, scope, hold, are the same and the atmospheric, tectonic and gravitational conditions are the same, what difference does it make whether the stock is an injection-molded $45 eBay cheapy or a $600 CNC carved laminate? And what if the stocks are secured in some type of holding device at the range that will not allow any movement. Do I make my point? What difference does the stock make in absolute accuracy?
Thank you,
duckklr (apparently the trouble maker and rabble rouser)

Action rigidity is important to accuracy, and it's influenced a lot by the stock fitment and stiffness.

A stock can be a major help or hindrance in how a rifle shoots. I spent a long time with my brothers 7mm Mag which was a monster to get shooting well. Next to improve it is a new stock with a bedding block in it. I ended up free floating the current stock which helped with consistency

Accuracy by definition means the exact same result for the same sequence of actions.

The purpose of the stock is to hold the action, and to avoid interfering with the barrel - hence the popularity of free floating.

A cheap injection moulded stock will not be able to hold the action as rigidly as a laminate. Plastic is soft. Action screws are steel. Steel deforms plastic much easier than laminate. Movement of the action relative to the stock means accuracy is not possible.

Securing a cheap plastic stock in a holding device will not prevent the action moving relative to the stock, so cannot give you accuracy.

The stock makes all the difference to absolute accuracy.

fiftybmg said:

Accuracy by definition means the exact same result for the same sequence of actions.

The purpose of the stock is to hold the action, and to avoid interfering with the barrel - hence the popularity of free floating.

A cheap injection moulded stock will not be able to hold the action as rigidly as a laminate. Plastic is soft. Action screws are steel. Steel deforms plastic much easier than laminate. Movement of the action relative to the stock means accuracy is not possible.

Securing a cheap plastic stock in a holding device will not prevent the action moving relative to the stock, so cannot give you accuracy.

The stock makes all the difference to absolute accuracy.

Click to expand...

Well put, thanks

fiftybmg said:

Accuracy by definition means the exact same result for the same sequence of actions.

The purpose of the stock is to hold the action, and to avoid interfering with the barrel - hence the popularity of free floating.

A cheap injection moulded stock will not be able to hold the action as rigidly as a laminate. Plastic is soft. Action screws are steel. Steel deforms plastic much easier than laminate. Movement of the action relative to the stock means accuracy is not possible.

Securing a cheap plastic stock in a holding device will not prevent the action moving relative to the stock, so cannot give you accuracy.

The stock makes all the difference to absolute accuracy.

Click to expand...

that. buy garbage, get garbage. buy once, cry once.

As many have stated, accuracy can be improved by bedding the action and lug area just in front of the action. Although this can also help on the 'tupperware' stocks, it really shines when done on a stiff platform, such as a custom/upgraded stock.

Additionally, accuracy can also be improved by consistent rifle positioning, such as cheek weld, consistent eye relief, comfort of fit (where everything fits & feels molded to your body). We have all heard about custom fitting shotgun stocks for those shooting competition skeet. Well, the same holds true for LR shooting.

Before making up your mind, go try out a few custom stocks. Shoulder them and see if they don't feel more natural. For me, once I did this - I could see the value and paid the price.

I bought a cheap savage off here for a project. It came with a sporter weight 223 barrel in a factory stock. It free floating. I thought Id play around with it while i wait on my Hart barrel. It shot fine at about .75 MOA. My MDT stock came in so I put it in the Oryx stock and went to goof off. Holy smokes! Now it shoots clover leaf groups. Stocks matter!

duckklr said:

All other things being equal, what difference does the stock make when it comes to accuracy. If the stock contour is the same and the barrel, receiver, bullet, powder, primer, scope, hold, are the same and the atmospheric, tectonic and gravitational conditions are the same, what difference does it make whether the stock is an injection-molded $45 eBay cheapy or a $600 CNC carved laminate? And what if the stocks are secured in some type of holding device at the range that will not allow any movement. Do I make my point? What difference does the stock make in absolute accuracy?
Thank you,
duckklr (apparently the trouble maker and rabble rouser)

Click to expand...

a lot a AI chassis and others are out standing Carbon fibers are light like AG with pillers same with manners all bedded are out standing H&S were the top stock for 40 years for the army,police and feds and lockin a stock down on the bench is butt but all the above will still out shot the cheap stock if you want a lock down system get a rail gun

This doesn't directly answer OP question. However, I believe it falls into the subject conversation.

I shot a five-shot group recently while breaking in my Premier Series Bergara HMR Shooting right-handed, I kept my left hand off the forend for the first two shots. They essentially entered the same hole at 100 yards. On the third shot, I gripped the forend slightly with my left hand. It hit a half inch left of the first two. I kept my left hand off the forend for the fourth and fifth shots. They both essentially entered in same hole as did the first two.

It sure doesn't take much to influence the barrel harmonics.

So..... I have a "Salvage", I mean Savage, "Long Range Stainless Fluted" (24"). This is meant to become a "long range shooter" (to be carried occasionally)...what do you folks recommend for a stock? Thanks for your recommendations! memtb

rogerstv said:

This doesn't directly answer OP question. However, I believe it falls into the subject conversation.

I shot a five-shot group recently while breaking in my Premier Series Bergara HMR Shooting right-handed, I kept my left hand off the forend for the first two shots. They essentially entered the same hole at 100 yards. On the third shot, I gripped the forend slightly with my left hand. It hit a half inch left of the first two. I kept my left hand off the forend for the fourth and fifth shots. They both essentially entered in same hole as did the first two.

It sure doesn't take much to influence the barrel harmonics.

Click to expand...

the stock must fit you holding viceing it will show you nothing learn how to hold and good body position and always do the same thing consistency do the same thing every time is the key to accuracy. from reloadin to grip to loading your bipod eye relief to stock weld and to trigger pull breathing time in scope looking at target

memtb said:

So..... I have a "Salvage", I mean Savage, "Long Range Stainless Fluted" (24"). This is meant to become a "long range shooter" (to be carried occasionally)...what do you folks recommend for a stock? Thanks for your recommendations! memtb

Click to expand...

I just bought an MDT Oryx and like it quite well. As for a stock style, Manners are hard to beat for carrying vs. sling carry. Ive never found a comfortable way to sling a Chassis.

Cheap stocks kick harder! Either by design or materials..They do.
OK felt recoil...