Loading for the 6.5x284

WannaBuild

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Oct 14, 2013
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Hello men!

I'm starting to reload for my 6.5x284 Norma. I already found a load which I started with new Lapua brass measuring 2.170, federal primers, Berger 140 VLD being pushed by 54.9 grns of H1000. Shoots really well! My question is now I have 150 rounds of once fired brass that after resizing measure 2.173 to 2.175ish. Should I trim those all back to 2.170 or get a tool to measure my MAX case length of my chamber? I also have some Nosler factory brass that measure 2.160ish (which is Berger's book trim length) that I used to break in me barrel with. What say you all???
 
Get a case comparator tool (Hornady, Sinclair) and a good dial/digital caliper (over $30 will be good) it'll extend your brass life by knowing the exact measurements. Bump your brass -.002" will be fine. Case length can be an interesting subject, but I keep my case lengths above minimum and below maximum, all cases should be same length for consistency. Being consistent is the rule with reloading.
 
Get a case comparator tool (Hornady, Sinclair) and a good dial/digital caliper (over $30 will be good) it'll extend your brass life by knowing the exact measurements. Bump your brass -.002" will be fine. Case length can be an interesting subject, but I keep my case lengths above minimum and below maximum, all cases should be same length for consistency. Being consistent is the rule with reloading.

So what you're saying is bumping the shoulder back .002 will in turn bring the overall length of the case back to roughly 2.170, correct? As the neck continues to grow do I just trim after the bump?
 
When you size the cases they will grow a little in length. Take a length measurement with calipers, if it's longer than trim by a couple or few thousandth or so, you probably need not worry with trimming? Trim to length is 2.160", max length is 2.170". 6.5X284N still is mostly, standardized, so I'd find a length somewhere in between min & max? What rifle is this in, custom or factory?
 
When you size the cases they will grow a little in length. Take a length measurement with calipers, if it's longer than trim by a couple or few thousandth or so, you probably need not worry with trimming? Trim to length is 2.160", max length is 2.170". 6.5X284N still is mostly, standardized, so I'd find a length somewhere in between min & max? What rifle is this in, custom or factory?

It's a custom from Northwest Action Works. Oh I see what you're saying, again I'm just now getting into reloading so I'm just now catching up. Does it make any difference to accuracy or anything if I just run my cases at max length? What are pros and cons? I am running Redding match or comp ( can't remember off the top of my head)FL dies in my Dillon 550B press. can I bump my shoulders using my current set up?
 
This assumes your chamber is spec'd to 6.5x284 Norma. New Lapua and Norma Brass runs around 2.160". Fire form your brass 1-2x, push the shoulder back(FL dye) .0015-.002", then trim your brass to 2.162". Re-trim when it reaches 2.170".
 
This assumes your chamber is spec'd to 6.5x284 Norma. New Lapua and Norma Brass runs around 2.160". Fire form your brass 1-2x, push the shoulder back(FL dye) .0015-.002", then trim your brass to 2.162". Re-trim when it reaches 2.170".

Hey guys,

Thank you for your help! So with my set up I currently have, am I able to bump my shoulders back? Do I just screw my FL sizer down a little more in the tool head without warping my shell holder?
 
Yes. It doesn't take much of a turn of the dye....measure the amount you turn in the dye body with a marker at the base of the dye and turn in 1/8" increments, measuring your headspace after each increment.
Do this with the press ram/shell-holder in the lowered position. It's quite possible that you will feel the press "over-cam", which means you will reach the end of the travel, then continue pressing the handle downward past the stop point and feel a "click" and the ram is at its fully extended position. This is normal as long as it's not overdone. Make sure your cases are well lubed. Your dye setting may vary with different brands of brass.
 
This assumes your chamber is spec'd to 6.5x284 Norma. New Lapua and Norma Brass runs around 2.160". Fire form your brass 1-2x, push the shoulder back(FL dye) .0015-.002", then trim your brass to 2.162". Re-trim when it reaches 2.170".
Almost the exact method I use with Norma & Nosler brass at 2.161", trim at 2.165-.167", but I go one step more and outside neck turn to .014", to uniform and clean it up. I don't shoot this rifle "too" much, so I include this extra procedure.
 
Almost the exact method I use with Norma & Nosler brass at 2.161", trim at 2.165-.167", but I go one step more and outside neck turn to .014", to uniform and clean it up. I don't shoot this rifle "too" much, so I include this extra procedure.

I had done some work with turning the necks with Lapua 6.5x284 brass several years ago, never adopted the practice. Variation of unturned was .005" or less and didn't seem to effect my ES or accuracy, Lot to lot variations of the Lapua Brass in neck OD over the years has been very consistent as well at .0145"-.0150"OD. My chamber dimensions(neck) run .004-.005" of clearance to my sized/loaded necks.
 
I had done some work with turning the necks with Lapua 6.5x284 brass several years ago, never adopted the practice. Variation of unturned was .005" or less and didn't seem to effect my ES or accuracy, Lot to lot variations of the Lapua Brass in neck OD over the years has been very consistent as well at .0145"-.0150"OD. My chamber dimensions(neck) run .004-.005" of clearance to my sized/loaded necks.

Thanks for your input guys! I think I might just stick to the basics of FL sizing for now, trim all of my cases to around 2.165-167 like you said and see how it preforms. Are there any pros, cons to running my brass a little longer providing my chamber will allow it?
 
I'm shooting H4831sc under the first bullet I tried, the 139 Scenar. Both have been extremely accurate. I would say, with that powder, the Sierra 142, Hornady ELD-m, Berger hybrid, would all shoot well. Primer wise, I was using Federal gold medal match, but due to their scarcity, the CCI BR's work too.
 
I don't think you will have any issues running you brass longer given you have the clearance. The only aspect I would consider is that you may have to trim more frequently then necessary, and make sure that your brass length is kept within the limits of your chamber. Brass length can increase to some degree with every firing. In my experience, the consistency of your length is more important then the absolute length. Most all chambers provide a bit of excess clearance over the brass trim length specs to provide some clearance. Too long is problematic, and can cause a pressure spike...too short only reduces bearing(slightly), and might pose some carbon build-up depending on cleaning practices. IMO.
 
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I don't think you will have any issues running you brass longer given you have the clearance. The only aspect I would consider is that you may have to trim more frequently then necessary, and make sure that your brass length is kept within the limits of your chamber. Brass length can increase to some degree with every firing. In my experience, the consistency of your length is more important then the absolute length. Most all chambers provide a bit of excess clearance over the brass trim length specs to provide some clearance. Too long is problematic, and can cause a pressure spike...too short only reduces bearing(slightly), and might pose some carbon build-up depending on cleaning practices. IMO.

Yes, that is what I was looking for. I think I have a plan now, I will trim everything to about 2.165 shoot it until it reaches 2.170ish then trim again. What do you think?
 
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