First full custom...lots of questions

Lonewolf74

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Ok I'm wanting to put together a 338 Norma mag and have a lot of questions of what I can or cant use.

For the action I'm looking at the Stiller Tac 338 or the Pierce engineering 800. The 800 is a new action from Pierce with oversized dimensions. 1.450 dia body, .800 bolt dia, forend extended .400 with 1 3/16 x 16 tpi tennon and similar but larger footprint to rem 700.

I want to be able to put this in a traditional (A-5 or similar) style stock so my first question is with proper inleting will these larger actions fit in traditional stocks?

Second I know with these larger tennon sizes I need a barrel with 1.35 breech dia. I wanted to go with Brux or Rock Creek cus they're made hear in Wisconsin but cant find if they offer this breech size. Does anyone know if they do or what barrel makers do I have a choice from that make that size breech?

Also what can or should I use for bottom metal? I'm leaning towards bdl style bottom metal because I think it's better for hunting then having a clip. So for this setup I think I would go wyatt's cfe-12 box allowing up to 3.825 coal. What I dont know is if this box will accommodate the diameter of a 338 Norma?

Finally and perhaps most important is what is available for reamer's? So far I have only found 2 prints and the only difference between them is the throat length. One has .2252 freebore one has .263 freebore, not sure which would be the better option. I guess the best thing to do would be get brass and bullets and make some dummy rounds to measure, problem is I intend to use lapua brass and it appears the 338 Norma isn't available quite yet...so?

Anyway I know this is a long post with lots of questions but any help, advice or opinions is appreciated.
Thanks
Josh
 
I have looked at the Surgeon and I'm sure it's a great action and I like the integrated rail and lug the problem is I believe with the flat bottom it's designed more for chassis style stocks. I dont want a chassis system rifle.
 
I suggest you work backwards by selecting your smith first, then have a conversations to discuss equipment......he will provide all the yes/no, good/bad, etc. answers to your questions and most importantly, provide suggestions on the parts he think will be best for the intended application.
 
I have looked at the Surgeon and I'm sure it's a great action and I like the integrated rail and lug the problem is I believe with the flat bottom it's designed more for chassis style stocks. I dont want a chassis system rifle.

It has nothing to do with the chassis.

The flat bottom on the Surgeon was designed that way long before the chassis became popular. Like the Winchester Model 70, the flat bottom actions are stiffer than their round bottom brothers when bedded.

For the action I'm looking at the Stiller Tac 338 or the Pierce engineering 800. The 800 is a new action from Pierce with oversized dimensions. 1.450 dia body, .800 bolt dia, forend extended .400 with 1 3/16 x 16 tpi tennon and similar but larger footprint to rem 700.

You can use any the actions mentioned, Stiller, Pierce and Surgeon. I am a fan of the big Surgeon but I've seen the Pierce "Thumper' and I might be persuaded...;)

Yes, standard stocks can be inlet for these larger actions as most are plenty wide enough. Stay away from the ultralight stocks as they shave material off the width to save weight. This is a generality of course.

Unlike so many others, I pay no attention to Wyatt's box offers as I much prefer to use detachable magazines for simplicity. I can load 3.850" and never worry about feeding or bumping the nose of longer seated bullets. However, if BLD is your cup of tea, run with it and call Wyatt's to be sure of the box you need.

Three of the top tier barrel makers are located in Wisconsin; Brux, Krieger and Bartlein. All three will make the larger diameter barrels and will charge you more for the larger diameter material.

Enjoy the process!
 
Sable, thank you for all the info. That is my bad on the Surgeon action I haven't seen one built on anything but a chassis style stock so I just assumed they where more a less geared toward that.

That's also good to know about the barrel makers I didn't know all them are made hear in Wisconsin, not that that really matters but I do try to keep things more local if possible.

What does everyone think about Rock Creek barrels? This is the manufacturer I'm leaning most towards. I like the 5R barrel's and from what I understand Rock Creek also uses a gain twist in there barrels which I'm curious about trying.
 
You might want to look at chassis? I have a MicMillan A-5 on a 300 WM and it is really nice. Expensive and a long wait. But I also have 2 MPA chassis and they suit me more!
That's why I have 2? One is on a 6.5 X 284 the other is a 338 Lapua.
If you want a 5-R you need to hunt for a B. Obermeyer barrel he adapted the Russian
method and made it popular. One company makes them with his approval now and they will do a gain twist! I'm thinking 9.5 to 9.25 not a lot just a tad. I'm about to make my move and go for it!
 
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Rock Creek barrels are also a product of Wisconsin. They make both cut rifled barrels as well as pull button barrels. Both have been acknowledged as being excellent quality. The tiny amount of gain twist is really insignificant as far as performance is concerned.

One company makes them with his approval now and they will do a gain twist!

For all these years, Boots has granted permission for other barrel makers to use this rifling form. He even gave Remington a pass to make a mandrel for hammer forged barrels.

Be sure to check if he is still available as he was having some health issues.
 
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Manners flat top will work for what you want as well. LRI uses cnc equipment to cut your stock to your inlet with very short build times.
As far as reamers put together your dummy rounds and send them to Dave Manson or JGS. That way you have the exact throat dimension for the bullet of your choice
 
All good info. I would have to strongly push you in the direction of pierce. Both for the action and the build of you don't have a smith picked. I've had many customs made. From my first bob hart .257 to my last .375 Allen mag.
I can tell you pierce was the most prompt and guiding Smith I have ever used. I asked tons of questions and he provided great answers. I've been to and toured the shop. It's very small but they do amazing work. I had them build me a 6.5 creed out of ti and carbon fiber. Had to add some weight with a different scope and thumbhole to make it easier to shoot at long range and still at the 6.5pbs mark ready to hunt. This all came from the search for my action. I was lucky enough to see some of the larger action in rd when I was picking up pat time.
Worth a call. Good luck keep us updated as I'm looking at the same build very soon.
 
Have you given much thought to Triggers? I have a couple Bix N Andy Marksman 2 stage that I feel set the standard? I just got a TT Diamond flat shoe and can't wait to try it out. This is what I like about having a rifle built..You can pick everything.
 
First thanks to everyone for the replies and your knowledge in this endeavor!

To answer some questions about what I have in mind. I have never got behind a chassis style rifle so perhaps it could feel different then what I imagine. However I do have an AR with adjustable butt stock and I assume a chassis bolt action will feel similar. When shooting off a bench and especially prone I much prefer the feel of my traditional stock bolt actions over the AR. And, of less importance but a factor all the same I prefer the look of a bolt action in a trad stock over chassis. Third factor is weight, I'm not trying to make a light build but would like to keep weight to 15lbs or so. I'm not saying this cant be done with a chassis but most I've seen are 17-20lbs.

I'm not set on McMillan stocks just using that general design or style, I even really like the medalist stock on my semi custom Rem 5R and wouldn't be against using one if I found it cheap to save a little hear or there.

I am leaning bout 90% toward the Pierce action and have been in contact with Jim Nordohf asking questions and he has been very helpful.

I have a local Smith in mind that I'm going to use. He does great work and we have a good relationship. I just want to gain as much knowledge as I can on this beforehand so I can tell him ok this is exactly what I'm going for and these are the things that will work. Basically if I make it easy for him he keeps it cheap for me.

As for triggers, I cant say I have much experience with aftermarkets except the 2 Timney single stage triggers I have on rifles now. They where both set and tuned at 2lbs and i love them compared to factory. I do know I want single stage because I like when a trigger feels like theres no movement and breaks crisp...like snapping off an icicle.

Thanks again guy's
 
Another thing I've been somewhat considering.

What is your guy's opinion on doing an improved shoulder?

I know its not necessary and I'm not looking for a real hot rod but the idea of hitting 2900fps with 300gr bullets is inviting. From what I've read 2800fps is probably the most I could get from the Norma with 2700-2750 being more likely.

So what are some pros and cons of doing a 35 or 40 degree shoulder?

If done right the only thing moving is the shoulder angle so the case would still center off of the neck shoulder junction and I wouldn't have to do anything special to fire form just load light charges? Maybe seat the bullet with some jam for insurance?

Anyway give me a little info on doing improved if you could.

Thanks again
 
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