Salt Bath Annealing

I picked up this kit for Christmas last year and have used it a couple times now. MUCH better/easier than the timed propane torch (probably lost 10 cases to over-annealed collapsed necks) and while the startup is more expensive, I think over the long run it will be better and cheaper. If nothing else I only got a couple annealing sessions out of a small propane canister while I think a single batch of salt will last me a VERY long time. I got the holders for both 30-06 and magnum sized cases and they seem to work very well. One piece of advice, don't put the whole thing of salt in to melt it down. It will fit but I would have done better with only 3/4 of a container in a small Lee lead melter. Also, take a look at Hatch's PID unit on the CastBoolits website for automated temp control. I plan on using it for both my lead pot during casting and this salt bath during annealing.
 
I find it easier to run smaller batches, say 150 or less, through the salt anneal process compared to the Giraud flame anneal process. It takes no real effort to plug in the melt pot and let it start to melt the salt. Once the bath is melted, you can place the tool and the thermocouple and wait for the temp to settle. With the flame, it takes more interactive time to get the flame set up where you want it.

If I have a bigger batch, say 200 or more, then the Giraud is superior since you can batch feed.

So the salt is very easy to set-up, but you do have to mark time and dunk the cases interactively, with the flame, it takes time to set up the process but then you batch feed and relax.

Both methods serve a purpose.
 
whitetail fanatic said:
MN-Shooter....do you not find 560C a little too hot? I anneal at 500C (as per ballistic recreation's recommendations) and immerse for 4-6 seconds depending on the brass. Are you simply running hotter because you are annealing 50 BMG brass?
Click to expand...

I'm using 560°C due to the large size of the 50 BMG case. I used to increase my time as the temp dropped, due to continuous insertion of cases. I built a PIT Temp Controller and it maintains constant temp range 555°C-560°C . Thru trial and error, I settled on this temp, and 13 seconds for my best results. I have used 550°C for doing smaller calibers, such as 30/06, 25/06 etc, and maintaining temps weren't as difficult,
 
MN-50 Shooter said:
Hi all, while new here, not new to shooting, reloading and annealing.

I have been utilizing this method for two years now. I have mostly used it to anneal my 50 BMG Match Brass (I compete in FCSA Matches), and it has given me very good results.

As far as the process, I put an old baking sheet/pan under my Lee Pot, to prevent anything from dripping on my bench when I remove the cases. After removing case from salt bath I immediately drop the case into a 5 Gal bucket filled about half way with cold tap water (make sure bucket is on the floor to prevent ANY possibility of splashing water into salts). When finished, I put the cases into a Frankford Arsenal Dehydrator for drying.

I have found that the Lee Pot Temp controller, left a lot to be desired, when trying to maintain constant temps. The PIT Controller mentioned above, cured that issue.

When finished annealing, turn off your pot, and let the salts cool and harden. Then dump the hardened salt "puck" back into the original salt container and tightly close the lid. This prevents any possibility of moisture absorbing into the salts.

Lastly, NEVER allow the salt temp to exceed 590°C. It will produce harmful vapors. As long as you keep it below this temp (I anneal at 560°C) you will not experience any fumes.

Note: I've found that if I put just a little bit of Lemishine into the water, the cases come out, with no appearance of the annealing coloration. I like shiny brass..lol.
Click to expand...

If you're willing to share, what specific PID controller & Relay did you use for your melting pot? I noticed the swing in temp with the lee pot and my anal retentive side would like to keep that swing down to a minimum.
 
I'm going to assemble my own PID controller but it looks like the Type K thermocouples are only "rated" to 400 degrees C.

What Termocouples and PID controllers are you guys using?
What is the required amperage rating for the SS relay?
 
I'm looking to get set up for this, and bought a second Lee pot for it rather than use the same one I use for lead. One question I have is how much salt to order now that I have located some suppliers. I will also be looking at better temperature control as well.
 
I think there are supplers that will allow you to buy in bulk. I guess it just depends on how much your going to use it. As far as advances in temperature control, I would think the salt would hold it's temperature much better than a touch. There are many things that can effect a propane cylinder. Because of this, I just know no how much an advance temperature control would help. I will say this, it's incredibly satisfying to see how these products make a impact in our sport of shooting. Innovation is a very good thing!
 
mhamlin said:
I've used this setup for a couple of years now and it works great. Make sure to keep water/moisture away from molten salt, or you get a hot salt bath (not much different than molten lead). I'm told the fumes are a dangerous inhalation hazard, so use with adequate ventilation. Supposedly it is similar/same as the deadly bath salts that kids and junkies were inhaling and dying from a year or two ago.
Click to expand...
I would like to clear up the difference between annealing salt and "bath salts". "Bath salts" is a street name for a complex amphetamine that is synthesized in drug labs, it has absolutely no chemical similarity to the simple, inorganic salts that are used in annealing. The salt used for annealing are mined out of salt deposits in the ground. The fumes from overheated salts will form weak nitrous acid solutions in body fluids, irritating the throat, eyes and other mucous membranes. They won't make anybody stoned or insane.
 
I was getting ready to get this setup myself as well. For whatever reason, I seem to be a pro at overheating the brass and having to toss it...
 
So, as I read it seems the key is not to heat the salt over 590 due to harmful fumes. My reloading room is approx 15x15 and enclosed in a larger shop. How important is ventilation if I am following the correct temp? Thanks.
 
My reloading room is about the same size as yours. I'm not worried about the possibility of irritating fumes. If your getting fumes, you know your temps are too high and shouldn't be annealing anyway. My plan is to not get my salt hotter than need be. If I do, I'll lower the temperature and open the door. I'll monitor from outside the room.
 
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