Separate die to de prime and titanium bushings

i have the redding type s dies and wondering if the titanium bushing make a differnce im using lapua brass. the other question is using a separate die to de prime is there a benifit to this

I believe that the titanium bushing might not need any lube if you are making a necked down cartridge from what I've heard, however I use mainly steel bushings and seem to have good results with them as I'm not a competitive shooter. And getting a few different sized bushings a couple thousandths on either side of desired tension due to variance in brass is a bit more affordable. However, there may be some guys that are much more educated than I am in reloading that have better advice on the bushing type pros and cons.

As far as depriming, I've used a FL bushing die without the bushing and running the decapping rod down well below the mouth of the die and with out the expander button on to deprime (just make sure to reset it before actually full length resizing so you don't bend it) , as well as used a decapping die. However, lately I've been using the decapping punch and really like it. That is useful for getting precise measurements on all parts of the brass after it has been fired for bumping the shoulder back, fired neck size, etc...

But as stated above, there are probably more accurate and educated guys that will give their .02 worth, just telling you some of my experience.

I use the steel bushings. I like to lube the inside and outside of the neck with Imperial Dry Lube before sizing so this works fine for me.

I would like to understand if there is a benefit to decapping separately too.

I use the Redding S Die for my 338 Lapua and have the Titanium Nitride bushings, just because not knowing if it helps a little it was worth the $10 more each (I have 3 sizes) so $30 more total. When I'm paying $2.50 per case if it even gives me one more load per case it was worth it. I always use Imperial lube as well on it.

As for decapping I always do that with a Redding Universal Decapping Die (Large) on a separate press (my Lee 50BMG press) just to keep my expensive Redding S Die cleaner and my RCBS reloading press cleaner, nothing goes on this press until it has been decapped and cleaned.

I have used the steel bushings as well as TiN coated bushings. I think the TiN bushings feel a little smoother on sizing and seems to make almost zero markings on the brass. The steel ones will do the trick as long as you use good lube. I tend to gravitate towards the TiN coated ones as so far they don't tent to get small amounts of brass embedded into them from long use like the steel ones. Both will do the job though, its all just preference. The separate decapping tool I feel is a necessity. I deprime all my stuff and tumble prior to cleaning so I don't introduce dirty brass into my dies. I guess you could run the decapping pin way out if you wanted to in a regular die but why waste the time when you can buy a cheap decapper which will work on majority of calibers. Again this is all opinion but that decapping die was a $7 well spent. Best of luck brother.

My titanium bushings seem a bit smoother also my part of Florida certainly has humidity issues. These won't/shouldn't rust. Types S FL sizer. And for another $10 ( I think) I said WTH.

Depriming with a universal depriming die allows you to clean the cases before sizing and reduces the chances of scratching your dies and brass.

I started wet tumbling and using a universal depriming die after getting semi-auto rifles and pistols. When the brass lands on the ground it can pickup dirt and grit and I was always scratching my .223 dies. And wet tumbling with SS media scrubs the cases and primer pockets clean.

All my rifle bushing dies are steel but I have one 9mm pistol die with a titanium nitride coating. And a carbide pistol die has a smoother surface. This is only one die but the titanium nitride coating is a plating and this coating on my die is rough and scratches the 9mm cases if the case is not lubed. Bottom line, the titanium nitride coating on the bushing was designed to size the case neck without any lube. Meaning the coating should be as hard and smooth as carbide, and this depends on the quality of the plating done.

Thank you guys I ordered a separate decapping die. Reason I was asking about the ti bushing is when I resize my lapua brass it's hard when it gets to the neck don't know if it's just my chamber in my rifle is alittle big but I measure a loaded round and take 2 off it so I'm using the 289 bushing

Like hard soon as the neck enters the bushing? Or harder farther down the neck? Also is this type S die a FL or just neck?

neck entering the bushing and yes its the type s fl

What kind of lube?

Use lube with either the steel or TiN bushing

Redding even states to do so on their "tech questions" page

TiN are less likely to gall the cases or rust in higher humidity

Gotta buy a separate recapping die in my opinion, and use it on a different press, I have mine on a Lee hand press (cheap) for depriming to keep the grit from scratching dies or the press/ram

the imperial wax

The decap die is intended to clear the primer as a precursor to brass cleaning.
As BigEdP51 points out, the risk is with brass that hits the ground in a dirty place that makes a mess of your other tools and dies. If you want clean primer pockets, or very sterile necks prior to annealing, it is common to wet tumble with the primers removed in advance.

Depriming prior to vibe tumbling isn't really necessary as compared to wet tumbling with stainless pins. So the need to deprime prior to brass cleaning is really a matter of your overall process needs. Using a universal decap die is also an option since there are hand tools that do this task as well.

If I mount a case kicker on the RockChucker, I can run the deprime operation quickly. If I am decapping brass that may contain crimped primers, this is less wear on my fingers since that takes a fair squeeze with the hand tools when you run into a crimped primer. So for me, having the option to decap on the press when I know there will be crimped primers in the mix is one good reason the dedicated universal decap die serves a common purpose. Crimped primers come up in the context of short line service rifle brass in 223, 308, and .30-06 mil-surp.

You don't have to wet tumble, and you don't have to use crimped brass. When these things come up, the universal decapping die is a good option.