Getting into long range hunting

No idea what you are starting with - but assume you are working out from 100 to 200 to 300 yARDS first. Some suggest sight in for around 225? yards or so - so you can shoot fairly flat to 300 yards - within 3" or so - and then get your longer drops figured out. Ideally - try to get it so that within 300 yards - you hold on hair - not air.

I'm sighted in at 200. I plan to start working 300 on out.

I am going to throw something out there that is a little different. Sell your rifle and use the funds to buy a more modern setup. That rifle was meant to shoot 140gr Game king or 160 gr partition bullets it will not be great for long range shooting. The bullets coming out with great BCs are all intended for faster twist barrels. Even the 162gr eldm is labled for 1-8" twist not to mention the 180-195gr bullets. Rifle makers are now starting to build their rifles with faster Twist barrels to accommodate these better bullets. If you want to shoot long-range the bullet is the biggest limiting factor. There are a ton of great long range-capable 7mm bullets but most will not work in a 10 twist barrel. You have a nice rifle that someone would want that you can use to off set the cost of changing focuses. I'd go out and get a 7mm Remington or 300 win mag made in this century that has a proper twist rate and start there. If you consider the cost of buying loaded ammo you will save a lot just going away from the Weatherby chamber.

My daughter's cheap wby vanguard youth model in 7-08 with 10 twist shoots our low bc 131g Hammer Hunters out to 600y just fine. This with a scope not designed to dial at all.

Run what ya brung!

You might wind up changing rigs - but suggest play around with your current one first - and see if it meets what you really want to do?

If your rifle has a 10" twist it should stabilize the 168 Berger. Push that bullet to the rated factory ammo velocities of 160 class bullets and you will have a legit 1000 yard elk rifle if you hunt some higher altitudes. That is about the furthest I would even consider using one where I hunt them, and I wouldn't want to hit heavy bone. The velocity at about 7,000 feet asl would be close to 2,000 FPS and the energy at around 1,600 ft-lbs. As for shooting 2000 yards, I don't know where altitude you are locate but unless you are way above sea level you will not make it there supersonic. The bullet will go that far but not accurately, maybe not even a mile.
I just looked it up and your scope has plenty of adjustment (60 moa) to make it to 1,000 yards (may need to add some moa to your rings/mount?). Call Zeiss and see if they will install target turrets on that model, a buddy of mine had them do it a few years back on an older model Conquest. If they won't, don't know if I'd use it to shoot near those distances.

Lots of good advice!
That 1-10 twist though!!!
I would probably trade that rifle in for a rifle that's more specialized for long range. Something with a faster twist and heavier barrel. Have you considered rebarreling? That cartridge with a 1-9 or 1-8 twist with a varmint contour would be perfect.

Thanks for all the great info. I think I've got a plan now. I think I'm going to use my current setup to work out to 800-1000 yards. I know it's not ideal, but it's what I've got and I love the gun. If/when I shoot the barrel out or hone my skills to where the gun is holding me back, I'll make the determination then to rebarrel or get a different gun. I know at some point I'll get some new glass as well. I'm just gonna have to poor boy it for a while. I'm at the beginning of a string of four kids that'll all be in college within the next 6 years.

So my plan is:

1. Start working out to longer distances with the gun as is.

2. Start reloading my ammunition.

3. Possibly glass bed the action and free float the barrel if I'm not happy with its accuracy.

4. Rebarrel/new glass/new gun depending on what my experience is.

5. Shoot some steel from a long *** distance and have a blast doing it.

I hope y'all are a patient bunch, because I know I'll have a ton of questions on the way.

Blackdirt Cowboy said:

Like the title says, I'm wanting to get into long range hunting, but I don't have a ton of cash to drop into a new hobby. What I do have is a Japanese made Weatherby Mark V lazermark chameberd in 7mm Weatherby Magnum. It is completely stock, outfitted with a Zeiss Conquest HD5 3-15x42 scope with the z800 ballistic reticle. I also have a place on my land that I can stretch out and shoot out to 2000 yards.

What I really want is a gun that is capable of taking elk out 1000 yards, but also capable of hitting steel out to 2000. Is my weatherby going to get me there? If so, what work will need to be done with it? If not, point me in the right direction. I've been researching different rifles and calibers for days, and that's just left my head spinning.

Currently, I don't reload but I'm in the process of buying the equipment I need to get started doing that. Oh, one other thing, if my current setup won't help me reach my goals, and I do need to go in a different direction, I'm kind of old school. I don't like the tactical looking guns or the composite stocks. I like the wood stocks and traditional looking guns. With all that being said, what is y'alls advice?

Click to expand...

Your shortest route to success would be to save up and attend one of the long range shooting schools you see discussed and advertised here.

With the equipment you have already if you can shoot sub MOA groups (3 shots) consistently you have more than enough to get the job done.

You do however need to upgrade to a scope where you can dope and dial or have Zeiss install tall turrets so that you can.

If your gun hasn't been accurized it needs to be, that means completely free floated and epoxy bedding, along with installing either aluminum or steel pillars.

If it has a factory tupperware stock the first thing I'd do is upgrade to a good laminate or composite.

Floating, bedding, pillars and replacement of the stock can all be done for as little as 300.00 and will pay you huge dividends down the road.

To become proficient and precise you will also need to either load your own or get with a friend who can. The benefit of the latter is you can learn from them as they do it for you.

There are also some outfits around who will work up loads specific to your rifle and load custom ammo for you but that gets very expensive.

Last but not least you need to buy another rifle. Something that won't break the bank in a caliber like the 6.5CM, 6.5 lapua, or .260 Remington that you can shoot sub MOA.

Use that for the rifle you learn on and save your boomer for hunting.

There are no shortcuts, you need to put thousands of rounds downrange before you will become truly proficient and precise at Long Range and we owe it to the game we seek to ensure they can whenever possible, at any range we choose to shoot them be brought down with a single, well placed shot.

Also, be sure and visit the beginner's subforum, and reloading subforum as well, there's a wealth of information there already at the tips of your fingers and most of us will be happy to answer questions.

Welcome to the addiction.

zr600 said:

I think your gun and scope can work for now. I would work on the 4-800 yard range. All advice above is good advice. For reloading you can use your factory shot brass. I would look to the Berger 175-180 at least or the 168 might be good out to a 1000. Seirra makes good bullets too they have some match Kong's that would be worth a try maybe the 165 game changers would be worth a try. Hornady has the 175 eldx that has a good bc. I would try to shoot them 160g plus bullets. What's the twist rate of your rifle?

Click to expand...

With his factory tube he's probably going to be limited to no heavier than 165gr's for full stability.

Each rifle is different. Play around - who knows what you may come up with.

Weatherbys are usually well made - but hard to glass bed I hear. Just see how it shoots with different ammo. That is one hell of a round if dialed in.

But for lots of practice - yes - try a 6.5 CM, or such. Can pick up a good shooter for $!,000 or even less.

Actually - can find decent - MOA shooters - for as low as $600. Remember - it's more the shooter than the gun.