New Member -- Advice/Experience Wanted!

It's more simple but not a big deal. For the most part you just make up a drop chart in mils and range your target. Once you do that look at your drop chart and use the mils according to distance. It's not hard. The jbm link I gave you will show you the trajectory and you can print out the drop sheet from there.
 
WildRose said:
Mil Dot is simpler, MOA is more precise. Personally I really like both the TMOA and B&C from Leupold for different reasons.

My favorite reticle period is the MP-8 From IOR Valdada but apparently it's proprietary and nobody else produces one similar.

Since you're starting out I'd say start with the MOA version as in the US pretty much everybody works in MOA, it will just keep things simpler for you and you won't have to do any conversions in the field.

We never talked about what stock is on your rifle I don't think. Is it a factory tupperware? Bell and Carlson, H-S precision or something else?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is just the good ol' wood stock from the factory.
 
Go look through them. The pros and cons for hunting favor sfp. For dynamic shooting like prs ffp is far better. Hunting you either have a quick shot or more than enough time to set-up the shot. A sfp is fine if your cranked up to the power the reticle is scaled to. In prs where you are under stress and have different targets to find you will need to be able to use the reticle for hold offs and leads at the power it is set to for the stage. Some guys will use a throw lever on the magnification ring to facilitate changing power quickly to find a target after a shot. Some self included will shoot at a lower power and leave it there. I use a 6-24 for this and rarely shoot above 12x. Most shots are at 7-9x inside of 700yds for me. Having the top end power is great for load development and past 1000yds (very rare for me) It is also great for group shooting at distance when the mirage isn't too bad. The open center of the pst ebr-2c works for me with the growing reticle. But for hunting it would be a stand hunting big clearcuts or the farms with long fields. I'd much prefer the sfp for walking and stalking. In the east where I hunt my shots are measured in feet and a simple duplex or #4 sfp works well for that.
 
HARPERC said:
Now you've done it!

Basically I have both, my answer, is if you don't know, SFP will likely serve you better on a hunting rifle.
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Capt RB said:
Go look through them. The pros and cons for hunting favor sfp. For dynamic shooting like prs ffp is far better. Hunting you either have a quick shot or more than enough time to set-up the shot. A sfp is fine if your cranked up to the power the reticle is scaled to. In prs where you are under stress and have different targets to find you will need to be able to use the reticle for hold offs and leads at the power it is set to for the stage. Some guys will use a throw lever on the magnification ring to facilitate changing power quickly to find a target after a shot. Some self included will shoot at a lower power and leave it there. I use a 6-24 for this and rarely shoot above 12x. Most shots are at 7-9x inside of 700yds for me. Having the top end power is great for load development and past 1000yds (very rare for me) It is also great for group shooting at distance when the mirage isn't too bad. The open center of the pst ebr-2c works for me with the growing reticle. But for hunting it would be a stand hunting big clearcuts or the farms with long fields. I'd much prefer the sfp for walking and stalking. In the east where I hunt my shots are measured in feet and a simple duplex or #4 sfp works well for that.
Click to expand...

Ok, so just so I can speak my mind and clarify what I need (please tell me if there is anything I should change)... If I am going with a Vortex, I am looking for a 4-16 power, with a single focal plane. Now, realistically, does a 50 objective make that much of a difference when compared to a 44 -- will it have a major impact? Lastly, does the HS-T model suite my needs or is the PST worth the extra money?
 
Brydawg512 said:
... If I am going with a Vortex, I am looking for a 4-16 power, with a single focal plane. Now, realistically, does a 50 objective make that much of a difference when compared to a 44 -- will it have a major impact?......
Click to expand...

Second focal plane. Up to you on 44 vs 50mm. Will it look and feel balanced on the rifle you use? SFP tends to be less expensive. Availability, and price could shift the 44-50 debate as well. Some of this comes down to what you want/need/like. Maybe hit the pawn shops to handle look at a variety of set ups to get a feel for what YOU like.
 
The pst is a much better option. The etched glass reticle and reticle options are better. EBR-2c in either moa or mrad is the christmas tree style. The free strelock app doesn't have it but it's the same as some others for a shoot to option instead of using the dial
SFP= second focal plane The reticle is behind the magnifying lenses. The plus is that the reticle is always the same size. When shooting a sfp on different magnifications you will have bullet impact changes. They are consistent but they will not have the same zero. In my 4-14 shv If 4x is at zero 14x is 1moa up and 1/2moa left. I set zero @4x for hunting but will correct the offset if I change power before adding in a firing solution. Not a problem at the range or on a stand. Doesn't matter who makes the second focal plane scope it is something you need to put in your dope book if you use a sfp scope.
FFP First focal plane is the reticle in front of the magnification. Point of impact doesn't change when you change magnification. The reticle grows in the exact proportion to the target because they are in the same plane. The reticle can get too small to use on low power or too thick if it is useful at that low power at high power. Illumination is a plus on a hunting rifle but check local laws on that some states don't allow illumination. In the same quality glass a larger front objective lense will give you better depth of field and resolution with better light transmission to the eye at the same power a smaler one does. Better for first/last light shots
They weigh more and need higher rings. That means an adjustable check rest or pad added to the stock for shooting. I have a 6-24x50 and I'd like to get a larger front objective I don't really care if it's 15-30X on the top end for my prs stuff. Hunting I have a S&B pm II 3x12 ffp 2 4-14 nightforce sfp's and a bunch of nikons all sfp. The 2 night force are on lighter weight boltguns The 3-12 is on a custom 22-250 and the rest are on various other rifles I use to hunt mostly by tracking. 760's 336's and a few 1903's and older bolt guns that found their way to the safe.
 
HARPERC said:
Second focal plane. Up to you on 44 vs 50mm. Will it look and feel balanced on the rifle you use? SFP tends to be less expensive. Availability, and price could shift the 44-50 debate as well. Some of this comes down to what you want/need/like. Maybe hit the pawn shops to handle look at a variety of set ups to get a feel for what YOU like.
Click to expand...

Ok, I currently use a Leupold with a 40mm so most likely I would be able to handle a 44mm (considering even that is an improvement). Idiot question time... How am I supposed to know if it looks/feels balanced? I do not have a picatinny rail, but do not think I need one to mount this scope?
 
Capt RB said:
The pst is a much better option. The etched glass reticle and reticle options are better. EBR-2c in either moa or mrad is the christmas tree style. The free strelock app doesn't have it but it's the same as some others for a shoot to option instead of using the dial
SFP= second focal plane The reticle is behind the magnifying lenses. The plus is that the reticle is always the same size. When shooting a sfp on different magnifications you will have bullet impact changes. They are consistent but they will not have the same zero. In my 4-14 shv If 4x is at zero 14x is 1moa up and 1/2moa left. I set zero @4x for hunting but will correct the offset if I change power before adding in a firing solution. Not a problem at the range or on a stand. Doesn't matter who makes the second focal plane scope it is something you need to put in your dope book if you use a sfp scope.
FFP First focal plane is the reticle in front of the magnification. Point of impact doesn't change when you change magnification. The reticle grows in the exact proportion to the target because they are in the same plane. The reticle can get too small to use on low power or too thick if it is useful at that low power at high power. Illumination is a plus on a hunting rifle but check local laws on that some states don't allow illumination. In the same quality glass a larger front objective lense will give you better depth of field and resolution with better light transmission to the eye at the same power a smaler one does. Better for first/last light shots
They weigh more and need higher rings. That means an adjustable check rest or pad added to the stock for shooting. I have a 6-24x50 and I'd like to get a larger front objective I don't really care if it's 15-30X on the top end for my prs stuff. Hunting I have a S&B pm II 3x12 ffp 2 4-14 nightforce sfp's and a bunch of nikons all sfp. The 2 night force are on lighter weight boltguns The 3-12 is on a custom 22-250 and the rest are on various other rifles I use to hunt mostly by tracking. 760's 336's and a few 1903's and older bolt guns that found their way to the safe.
Click to expand...

I agree the PST looks to be a better option from what I have gathered. Now, how do I go about using a reticle likelike the EBR-2C? I have seen the reticle that gives the 1/2 MOA ticks and 1 MOA tick and that seems to be the easiest to use, but I feel like that is just due to my lack of understanding. Ok, so that makes sense about the SFP. So, to practice, if you were on 6x on your rifle, zero would be 1/4 MOA up and 125/1000 MOA to the left (I feel like this isn't correct...)? Also, what do you mean by correcting your offset? Does this refer to the yardage you are shooting and how to adjust the MOA to shoot this distance? So I now know why a first focal plane makes sense for a hunting application (I am allowed to use an illuminated scope in my state). So, 4-16x50 or a 4-16x44 scope is suitable for my needs. I know I keep asking this question, but why is MOA more friendly to a first time user? Is it because it requires less field calculation then compared to an MRAD scope? I liked the price point of the 4-16x50 PST Vortex I found, but was somewhat discouraged when I found that I am only able to purchase it in MRAD.
 
[QUOTE="Brydawg512, post: 1511537, member: 107792".... Idiot question time... How am I supposed to know if it looks/feels balanced?......[/QUOTE]

If you're up to a drive PM me, and we can handle some in the basement.
 
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