New Member -- Advice/Experience Wanted!

So, let me ask a question here so I have a better understanding. At this point, I am considering going with an MOA reticle/scope. If I sight the rifle in to be dead on at 200 yards, but have to adjust the turrets to take a 450 yard shot in the field, is it easy to revert back to a 200 yard sight in? Is it just a matter of returning the turret knobs back to their original orientation? Still trying to figure out how you determine what needs to be adjusted and how much it needs to be adjusted based on what shot you are taking? Thanks in advance. I appreciate everyones help.
 
That all depends on the quality of your scope and knobs. If they are good then you just dial back to your 200 yard setting. With a MOA or Mildot based reticle you wouldn't have to use your knobs. Here's a link to a ballistics calculator. You just plug in your numbers and it will give you a "guide" to your trajectory. It may help you with figuring this all out.
http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi
 
xsn10s said:
That all depends on the quality of your scope and knobs. If they are good then you just dial back to your 200 yard setting. With a MOA or Mildot based reticle you wouldn't have to use your knobs. Here's a link to a ballistics calculator. You just plug in your numbers and it will give you a "guide" to your trajectory. It may help you with figuring this all out.
http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi
Click to expand...
Ok, that makes sense. So, after taking into consideration the advice I have received, I have decided that the Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 is realistically what I need for my intended purposes. I currently see a PST 4-16x50 EBR-1 online for $899 compared to a MRAD version for $599. However, I am wondering what adjustment (MOA or MRAD) would make the most sense? I see online that the MRAD scope is cheaper than the MOA version, but unclear why this is the case.
 
Brydawg512 said:
So, let me ask a question here so I have a better understanding. At this point, I am considering going with an MOA reticle/scope. If I sight the rifle in to be dead on at 200 yards, but have to adjust the turrets to take a 450 yard shot in the field, is it easy to revert back to a 200 yard sight in? Is it just a matter of returning the turret knobs back to their original orientation? Still trying to figure out how you determine what needs to be adjusted and how much it needs to be adjusted based on what shot you are taking? Thanks in advance. I appreciate everyones help.
Click to expand...
Yep, that's exactly how it works.

With a little practice you can learn to simply adjust your holdover inside of about 450yds and still be quite accurate but beyond that dialing in your drops gets more and more important as the range increases.

The 7RM is a fairly flat shooter so if you sight in and set it up for a 300yds zero just using +/- holdover to 450 is pretty easy and doesn't take a great deal of practice.

You'll really like the TMOA reticle on the Leupolds if an MOA reticle is what you are used to.

As for going back to your original zero, yes, it's quite easy as the dial is calibrated in MOA starting at 0.
 
Brydawg512 said:
Ok, that makes sense. So, after taking into consideration the advice I have received, I have decided that the Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 is realistically what I need for my intended purposes. I currently see a PST 4-16x50 EBR-1 online for $899 compared to a MRAD version for $599. However, I am wondering what adjustment (MOA or MRAD) would make the most sense? I see online that the MRAD scope is cheaper than the MOA version, but unclear why this is the case.
Click to expand...
Stick to the MOA version it'll simplify your life quite a bit.
 
Sorry I couldn't tell you why as I haven't owned a Vortex. Either MOA or MIL will serve you fine. I think for hunting big game a mil based reticle will be less cluttered. But for varmints a MOA would be my choice for finer increments.
 
WildRose said:
Yep, that's exactly how it works.

With a little practice you can learn to simply adjust your holdover inside of about 450yds and still be quite accurate but beyond that dialing in your drops gets more and more important as the range increases.

The 7RM is a fairly flat shooter so if you sight in and set it up for a 300yds zero just using +/- holdover to 450 is pretty easy and doesn't take a great deal of practice.

You'll really like the TMOA reticle on the Leupolds if an MOA reticle is what you are used to.

As for going back to your original zero, yes, it's quite easy as the dial is calibrated in MOA starting at 0.
Click to expand...
xsn10s said:
Sorry I couldn't tell you why as I haven't owned a Vortex. Either MOA or MIL will serve you fine. I think for hunting big game a mil based reticle will be less cluttered. But for varmints a MOA would be my choice for finer increments.
Click to expand...

Well, I have a pretty good deal on a Viper PST 4-16x50 EBR-1 in MRAD right now from Cabelas. They said they may be out of the MRAD, so if they have the same scope in MOA I may pull the trigger for $499 compared to its normal $699.
 
Brydawg512 said:
Well, I have a pretty good deal on a Viper PST 4-16x50 EBR-1 in MRAD right now from Cabelas. They said they may be out of the MRAD, so if they have the same scope in MOA I may pull the trigger for $499 compared to its normal $699.
Click to expand...
Mil Dot is simpler, MOA is more precise. Personally I really like both the TMOA and B&C from Leupold for different reasons.

My favorite reticle period is the MP-8 From IOR Valdada but apparently it's proprietary and nobody else produces one similar.

Since you're starting out I'd say start with the MOA version as in the US pretty much everybody works in MOA, it will just keep things simpler for you and you won't have to do any conversions in the field.

We never talked about what stock is on your rifle I don't think. Is it a factory tupperware? Bell and Carlson, H-S precision or something else?
 
There's also a used SWFA 3x9 MIL/MIL HD in the optics classifieds for sale.
 
Ok, yes it was my understanding that MOA may be simpler for me to start with. Guess I may need to see who has the best price around.
 
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