NGD: Savage 110 Predator 6.5 Creedmoor

WildRose said:
You won't need a rail at all to get to 500yds.

Check the drops on a ballistic chart or App at the distances you plan to stretch it to. Most likely you'll find you need no more than 10-20MOA max.
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I messed around with the scope last night. I had taken it off my 30-06 to put on this new rifle and replaced it with a Monarch 3-9x40 on the 30-06 (I will have some serious zeroing to do!)

The 4-16x42 actually has 50 MOA of adjustment, and where it was on the '06 zeroed at 200 yds, I had 30 MOA worth of adjustment up, 20 down. I actually think I am good out to 1000 according to my Spot-On calculations for 6.5C. With 20 MOA down as-is, I could run into being at the very end of my adjustment down with a 20 MOA rail.
 
Looks like it comes with bases. A 0 moa base on a flat shooting rifle will usually take you way out there if the scope has a fair amount of adjustment. Maybe need nothing.
 
Mike 338 said:
Looks like it comes with bases. A 0 moa base on a flat shooting rifle will usually take you way out there if the scope has a fair amount of adjustment. Maybe need nothing.
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They have their pluses and minuses. One thing I like is that they just make it a whole lot harder to end up with rings too low and even if the scope ends up at exactly the same height as it would with two piece mounts I like the sight lines better.

Or course, the once piece adds strength and stability that no two piece system can to your action.

Just make dead sure when you mount a one piece rail the fit is perfect because if it isn't you will be inducing a slight bit of torque, twist, or bend to your action.

When I install them I match them up perfectly and if there's even the slightest misalignment in height I'll break out the dremel and work on it till I have full contact on both ends as close to perfect as possible.

From there I use a slight amount of bedding compound being careful to keep clear of the screws and screw holes then snug it up just enough to eliminate all movement.

Once fully set, torque to spec.

On big boomers with a heavy scope from there it's not a bad idea at all to have a gunsmith drill and pin the rail to the action with at least a single pin in one end if not both.

I never realized just how unacceptable those tiny little number 6 and 8 mounting bolts/screws are to shearing forces until a couple of decades ago.

One of our engineers here explained it to me and I don't remember the full explanation but the threading of the screw costs you about 2/3 or 3/4 of it's resistance to shearing forces as compared to a straight pin of equal diameter.
 
One of the biggest key's to the savage accustock is torque tuning the rifle. My 6.5 model 10 would shoot inside 1/2moa easily after torque tuning the action to the stock. .75" 5 shot groups at 300yds. Not .75 MOA but .75" Sub 2" groups at 500yds all from a bone stock rifle with a beast 2pc brake which also can be tuned by moving it in out and from the 12 o'clock position to 10 to remove some of the twisting effect.
I used the burris signature tactical rings and put 25 moa into the rings. I'd also consider peterson brass. ADG and then lapua. I used Rl 26 to get my best groups and single digit ES. I did a 130 shot string over the crono and even with leaving the rounds in the chamber for up to 2 minutes for data I saw a 57fps swing in outdoor temps in the 32-36 degree. 4955 showed promise but it wasn't as good in the short amount of testing I did. Rl 16 had more speed than h4350 but it shot best at the same speed h4350 with large rifle brass did. RL 26 would really shine in longer than 24" barrels whereas the 4350's and Rl 15/16 as well as cfe223 is amazing in the shorter barrels. The 120 class shot very well in the cold with 100V. I shot 120 and 123 serria's into one hole groups using that powder. It was a nice load that had the same 0 as the 125gn winchester deer xp load. The new owner of that rifle will be using that this fall for whitetails in New england so I hope to get a report as to how that works for the people who need a good factory load for their creeds. It holds sub moa out to 480(as far as I have shot that before selling the rifle)
 
Capt RB said:
One of the biggest key's to the savage accustock is torque tuning the rifle. My 6.5 model 10 would shoot inside 1/2moa easily after torque tuning the action to the stock. .75" 5 shot groups at 300yds. Not .75 MOA but .75" Sub 2" groups at 500yds all from a bone stock rifle with a beast 2pc brake which also can be tuned by moving it in out and from the 12 o'clock position to 10 to remove some of the twisting effect.
I used the burris signature tactical rings and put 25 moa into the rings. I'd also consider peterson brass. ADG and then lapua. I used Rl 26 to get my best groups and single digit ES. I did a 130 shot string over the crono and even with leaving the rounds in the chamber for up to 2 minutes for data I saw a 57fps swing in outdoor temps in the 32-36 degree. 4955 showed promise but it wasn't as good in the short amount of testing I did. Rl 16 had more speed than h4350 but it shot best at the same speed h4350 with large rifle brass did. RL 26 would really shine in longer than 24" barrels whereas the 4350's and Rl 15/16 as well as cfe223 is amazing in the shorter barrels. The 120 class shot very well in the cold with 100V. I shot 120 and 123 serria's into one hole groups using that powder. It was a nice load that had the same 0 as the 125gn winchester deer xp load. The new owner of that rifle will be using that this fall for whitetails in New england so I hope to get a report as to how that works for the people who need a good factory load for their creeds. It holds sub moa out to 480(as far as I have shot that before selling the rifle)
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If you're like me you sold the rifle because it shot to well and it was no fun lol. I find myself playing with every gun until I get it just right and then moving on to the next one, I have issues.
 
I'd would be interested to see how this new Accustock does for accuracy, long term?! As a "mostly" Savage driver, I'v never put all my faith in the stock stock. Will it function, yep! Do I trust it 100%, nope!
 
Tidus56 said:
If you're like me you sold the rifle because it shot to well and it was no fun lol. I find myself playing with every gun until I get it just right and then moving on to the next one, I have issues.
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A friend shot the rifle and had to have it. Best thing for both of us was the fact it shoots everything you put through it. I had 3 different seating depths for different velocities and cold bore.
All with the 147 with danzac coating
2.855 2.840 and 2.820. I ran the 120's with the seater set for the 2.855 147 load don't remember the coal but it was with the boat tail out of the body for sure. I wish I shot more than the 100v with the lighter bullets for the sake of data. It shot so well I just couldn't make the time nor wanted to. Very first handloads were with that bullet and it went into hole at 100 in near zero temps in the mid 2800's fps. It was 1 grn off the top of the hodgdon data online in norma brass. Which is also very consistent
 
Congrats on the Savage Predator. I have played with 5 savages. 3- 22-250 predators and 2- 6.5 creed in LRHs . All are shooters. Just adjust the trigger and proper torque of stock and all shoot under 1/2 MOA with factory ammo.
Not sure if you took the bases off yet that came with the predator rifles but they are a bear! not sure how they put them on in the factory but the screws are cheap and heads of screws strips when trying to remove them. I had to carefully drill the heads off the screws and pull the base off and then back the rest of screw out with pliers. Maybe I am unlucky but everyone has done this for meo_O Installed rails on them after getting the garbage bases off! There are some things I don't like about the savage engineering but all that I have played with are very good shooters.
 
QUOTE: One of the biggest key's to the savage accustock is torque tuning the rifle

Capt RB, What is your torque process? I read somewhere online the best way was to torque 10 inch pds front screw then back screw, then go to 20 inch pds front and back, then 35 inch front screw and 30 inch back screw. I tried this on the few savages I have played with and it seem to work well. so I stayed with that. I am always looking to improve so would love to hear your way. Thx
 
hunterdan said:
QUOTE: One of the biggest key's to the savage accustock is torque tuning the rifle

Capt RB, What is your torque process? I read somewhere online the best way was to torque 10 inch pds front screw then back screw, then go to 20 inch pds front and back, then 35 inch front screw and 30 inch back screw. I tried this on the few savages I have played with and it seem to work well. so I stayed with that. I am always looking to improve so would love to hear your way. Thx
Click to expand...
I saw the article from team savage on the Bulletin. I went in 5 in/# increments ended up 35 front and 30 back for the first 100-150 rounds. I started to get a flier every now and then so I tried again and ended up fiddling around with 40 25 37 27 40 30 and ended back at 35 30. The flier issue ended up being bullet sorting. I had been very meticulous for the first couple hundred rounds then I was putting together so much ammo I stopped and the eld-m's just are not as consistent as the bergers or serrias. I love they way they shot in the gun so I sorted the 6 boxes I had left and the fliers went away. The 142's I had never sorted and they just shot well but in the wind let's just say my wind skills are not like they use to be.
I bought a 308 to replace that 6.5 just to reacquire myself to paying attention more. I know right away when I don't now lol
 
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