Mountain Gun build - What would you do different?

phorwath said:

You've got to be 8 1/4lbs with that 30oz scope, plus the scope rings. Close to 8 3/4lbs with bipod.

Click to expand...

Yep. Like I said a little over 8 lbs. 8 lbs 4 oz. I don't pack it w the bipod attached.

What would you guys recommend on barrels? Hardy CF or Proof CF and why?

Also, advantages / disadvantages on going 22" vs. 24" barrel?

Thanks for all the feedback!

I only have experience with Proof so I can't comment on that.

Regarding barrel length, that's a preference thing, you are going to have to carry this thing around the mountains with you. I like a shorter barrel that's more handy. If the 50 fps per inch rule of thumb is accurate, then I'm 100 FPS slower than the next guy shooting an identical load. I could care less about 100 FPS. I'm shooting a 7 RM so it's not exactly a slouch. Some people would faint if they read this post as they like to chase velocity.

For me, I would only be chasing velocity on a dedicated canyon shooter, something that is 14+ lbs and won't get very far from the trail. If my style of hunting is ELR and I don't walk much, then I would want a long heavy barrel.

I like to be as far away from a trail/road as possible and I'm relatively sneaky, so I don't need those extra 2 inches and 100 FPS to kill my critters. Again, it's all personal preference.

You chose some good stuff. The Razor Ti should save a few oz. over the Fuzion. I might go with a different caliber...and a Neopod bipod (3.5 oz).

Here's my ultimate sheep/mountain build:
LP Razor Ti Short, Proof CF 24" bbl, Manners Elite Carbon EH3, Trigger Tech Diamond, in 6.5 SST w/ Swaro Z6i 5-30x50.

Only thing I would change in an ultralight setup is the caliber.
You can reach way out there and kill big stuff with a 180 grain 7mm bullet, or a 156 6.5..
Recoil will be an issue with a .300 mountain rifle, believe me I've done it.

^Thats about the only thing I would change as well- the caliber. You don't need a big rifle for sheep/goats/mule deer (typical mtn hunts). Personally for a mtn gun I like a 6.5 almost any of the 6.5's. If you want something light it should fit in a true short action, I went 260ai but a 6.5wsm , Sherman short, or gap 4s would be where I would go. My AI pushes a 129gr 3040fps, it can go a bit over 3100 before pressure signs hit but the top node I can hit is 3040.

I don't disagree with an intergral rail, esp on a Ti action. One less thing to fail and very minimal weight in Ti. Some high quality light mounts (murphy ti maybe) and it would make a really sweet setup.

I wouldn't change a thing. 300wsm is a very good bullet choice.

I think everything sounds great. I love my 300 WSM. It's my dedicated elk rifle. I have a Sako 75 that I put into a McMillan Hunter stock and put a muzzle brake on it (the brake is a must in my experience). The barrel is 24" plus the brake. It's topped off with a Swarovski Z5. It's light and nimble. Honestly, I really don't notice on my shoulder as I'm humping up and down the mountain all day. You don't need less than a 1:10 twist (mine is a Sako factory 1:11), since it will handle all the bullet weights you'll ever use. A 180 gr bullet is a perfect combo for speed and performance. I changed to a 200 gr ELDX last season and it's a hammer on elk, although it didn't make the elk any more dead than the 180 gr Accubonds I used to shoot. It's a great cartridge. I think you'll be happy with your choice

Will preface comments below with I believe a mountain rifle to be something very light weight.

300 WSM Do you need this much power? Bigger bullets are more weight to carry around.
Stock - McMillan Hunter w/ Edge Tech Too heavy
Barrel - PROOF Lite Carbon 24" 1010 twist Too heavy
Harrells Gill Muzzle Break You only need a break in a light weight if your caliber is on the big end.
Action - Lone Peak Fuzion - TI Too expensive
Trigger - Jewel If you prefer

KamoAggie said:

Thanks for all the replies! I have a 7RM and 300RUM already but they are 8.5 - 9.5 pound rifles. I wanted a shorter action and shorter barrel. I am still considering the 6.5 but I am leaning 300WSM due to the range of animals. deer, sheep, caribou, etc. Just makes me feel better shooting the bigger animals with a 30 cal vs. 6.5.

Click to expand...

AGREE. a big 30 will kill anything a 6.5 will kill only better but a 6.5 will NOT kill everything a 30 can.

Ill take the minor weight(per cartridge) and recoil for the increased longrange energy tradeoff anyday!
James

KamoAggie said:

What would you guys recommend on barrels? Hardy CF or Proof CF and why?

Also, advantages / disadvantages on going 22" vs. 24" barrel?

Thanks for all the feedback!

Click to expand...

That's easy, a Proof Carbon barrel everyday over a Hardy, it will be much cheaper in the long run & it will shoot.

Make sure you get a great muzzle brake if you want to enjoyably shoot heavy bullets in a light rifle.

Depending on what you are after will dictate the caliber. here is my fave pack/mountain rifle for deer. Win 70 Feather weight carbine 270 win, 18" feather weight barrel, Chet Brown "pounder" stock, Leupold light weight 2-7 X 32MM (1" main tube), skeleton aluminum rings, and muzzle brake. Rifle, Scope, Sling and Bi-pod.. 6 pounds, 3 ounces.

A lot to like about this build. Lots of good advice here too. I love my 300 WSM from Accurate Ordnance. Proof 24", McMillan hunter stock Stiller action. I e read enough about Ti actions that I stay away from them. I'm an engineer and really pay attention to materials. From what I've read titanium is soft and mars easily. No thanks

I always found my 24"+ barrels get hung in trees. My personal mountain gun requirement is no longer than 41" from buttstock to muzzle. My mountain hunts seem to be a whole lot of gun toting and not a lot of gun shooting!!