Sako A7 accuracy issue

MZMpac said:

I had an A7 Roughtech in a 300WM. That thing tormented me for 9 months. I could not get it to shoot better than 1 MOA with factory ammo (Nosler, Fed premium, etc), and with hand loads the best I could get was was 3/4 - 1 MOA with any consistency.

Scope and rings mounted to the right torque, leveled, even had it professionally bedded.

My gunsmith suggested I have the barrel stress relieved, but at that point I just accepted it was "good nuff" for hunting but not a true long range gun. I eventually sold it.

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yep. I worked on load development for months and never got much better than what you describe.

My remingtons shoot so much better that no amount of compromise and lowering standards will convince me that this Sako is accurate enough for what I need. I would not try to hunt with this rifle beyond 300 yards. Heck, even my old pencil barrel 700 Mtn rifle in 30-06 shoots better than this thing. So yeah, eventually I'll sell this A7.

Geez I guys I'll never be buying a sako. I thought they were supposed to be great shooters like the tikkas??

Joefrazell said:

Geez I guys I'll never be buying a sako. I thought they were supposed to be great shooters like the tikkas??

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Mine in 300 win shoots great. Sub 1/2 inch groups and I'm not a great shot. Holds it out past 600 yards which is further than I'll shoot an animal with it I would imagine.

My thought is that there is some metallurgical inconsistencies with their barrels. Sako historically makes excellent factory rifles, and other than the accuracy issue I had nothing bad to say about it. It was durable, handled well, had a nice smooth action, and looked sharp.

However, if you are looking for an out-of-the-box sub-MOA rifle, I'd stay away from the A7 for now.

I have an A7 in 2506, I dont believe I ever got 2" groups but I do remember the groups being unsatisfactory with a variety of lead core bullets. I finaly loaded up some 100gr ttsx and is a lazer now

Tikkamike said:

I have an A7 in 2506, I dont believe I ever got 2" groups but I do remember the groups being unsatisfactory with a variety of lead core bullets. I finaly loaded up some 100gr ttsx and is a lazer now

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Interesting. I eventually settled on the 150 gr ttsx with RL19 in my A7. that's about the only thing that would shoot acceptably in it.

It must be a Nordic Eco thing.

OR it could be a long throat. When Barnes ttsx will shoot at factory length and nothing else will, often indicative of some longer freebore.

Go read some articles from Nathan Foster at www.ballisticstudies.com. There might be some tidbits of information that you haven't tried. He has worked with the A7

Is this an a7 roughtech or the regular model?
I have a7 roughtech, comes with a b&c stock that had an aluminum bedding block and my rifle is the most accurate rifle I own. Might be the stock that's the issue?

Iv sold and seen a number of issues with the factory bases and bases screws on these. If you havnt already take them off and try a set after markets they are the same base and screw as the A-bolt 2.

kiwi22250 said:

Iv sold and seen a number of issues with the factory bases and bases screws on these. If you havnt already take them off and try a set after markets they are the same base and screw as the A-bolt 2.

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that thought did occur to me. So I just ordered a new set of bases.

Combined with the S&B 8x56 that should arrive friday, I'm interested to see if there is any improvement. Too bad the excessive heat we have right now is going to infringe on my range time.

I looked at the A7 but could not find a good reason to buy one. Opted instead for the discontinued Tikka T3 in 22 250 Rem, pitched the stock for a B&C and a Timney trigger, although the trigger was very good. Shoots three leaf clovers @ 100 yrds. The A7 has the same recoil system as the T3(X) and with the flimsy lightweight stock it does not work. The B&C has an aluminum bed from stem to stern and the fit is perfect, no need to bed. It makes all the difference.

Years back I had an early version of the A7 25-06 that shot .5 MOA with my handloads, like a fool I traded it away because I wanted a Finnlight in 25-06 because it was lighter. The Finnlight would barely shot MOA

Interesting thread. I never shoot factory ammo (unless it's the Hornady ballistic tipped 452's in my 460 XVR Smith and Wesson revolver). Everything else is custom loaded Bergers in Lapua or Nosler brass (Lapua don't make a 300 WM case).

If Berger don't coin it, Swift does.

I'd suggest buying a Berger manual (and read it as you might find it interesting), Berger bullets propellant, good single stage press, dies (bushing preferred) concentricity guage, dial calipers, Hornady COAL and PG&T chamber gauge and learn how to roll your own. I can get any stick to shoot sub moa at 250 yards, no problem, do it all the time. Don't forget the primers too. Federal or CCI. Stay away from Winchester, they have hard cups.

Only thing I use a 100 yard benchmark for is initial load development and calculation velocity. After that, it's out to 200 then 250.

I have no love for factory loads expect the 460 and of course rimfire 22's and 17's.