7mm STW Reloading Thread

Catskills said:
I've been lurking on this thread for several years trying to learn what I can about a great cartridge. I've been reloading for a a Sako 85 for some time now. When I first started loading for it 15 years ago, I used Remington brass and IMR7828 with 140 and 160 Accubonds. Groups with nearly every load were MOA or better. The best were 5/8". Chronograping the loads it was apparently a fast barrels, routinely shooting faster than manuals suggested. It also has had nodes with heavier than book loads. 140s shot nearly 3500fps. 160s shot nearly 3400fps (this was what original STW loads suggested was obtainable). Both shot without any pressure signs.

Fast forward 15 years, I decided to start playing with the rifle again. Because my reloading supplies sprouted legs moving across the country, I had to start over again. I was surprised to see the only available brass was from Nosler. Whether because of different brass, or a change in powder lots, loading was now a real challenge with most groups in the 1.5" range. I did find a load in the MOA range....but nothing like before. Although less accurate than before, velocities were in the 3300fps range with 160s and 76g of 7828 (with a COL of 3.625). Increasing COL did not improve things, nor did reducing loads.

I've since tried loads with H1000 and RL26. H1000 did no better through 5 different powder charges. 80.5g of RL26 also shoots <1" but no better.

My practice with cases of this capacity is to load in 1 grain increments, then move to .5g increments once I'm on to something. Perhaps I skipped over a node.

Any other suggestions on what I might do to return the gun to its former accuracy level? I've been careful about letting the barrel heat up. I'd guess the tube has seen 300 rounds or so.
Click to expand...

Catskills,
Do you have or have access to a chronograph?? If not, get one. It will save you a ton of time in load development. The 6.5 Guys have a great video and write up on how to do load development using a chronograph. Once you find where max is in your rifle for a particular bullet and the powder you are using, drop down about 1.5-2.0 gr from there. Then load up one round in 0.2 gr increments and fire them using the chronograph. You'll find a velocity node (or flat spot) where the velocity levels off and doesn't really change much. This is what you are looking for, and they tend to be 0.4-0.8 gr in powder increase. Then pick a spot in the middle of that node and load up 5 rounds and shoot them over the chronograph. You should have a pretty decent ES with this found load (hopefully single digits, but anything 25 fps or less is very good and very very stable). Now load up 5 more rounds and see how they group. If it's not as tight as you like, you will need to play with seating depth to dial it in.
As far as powders go, I mainly use H1000 in 150 gr bullets and above. Haven't found a bullet that didn't like H1000. I'm on my second barrel now, and H1000 gets the call for most of my loads. I use RL25 in the 140 gr bullets. RL26 is great in all bullet weights and I've used Retumbo in the 175 gr bullets

Good luck

Doug
 
Yes, I do have a chronograph but have generally only used post load development. I've never actually worked to max (where I saw pressure signs). With 160s, I got nervous when I saw readings of 3450and backed off. My guess is they'd of pushed 3500 but saw no justification. I'd be thrilled to find something that shoots 1/2moa at 3300 give or take. As noted, this is a fast barrel.
 
Catskills said:
Yes, I do have a chronograph but have generally only used post load development. I've never actually worked to max (where I saw pressure signs). With 160s, I got nervous when I saw readings of 3450and backed off. My guess is they'd of pushed 3500 but saw no justification. I'd be thrilled to find something that shoots 1/2moa at 3300 give or take. As noted, this is a fast barrel.
Click to expand...

The fact that you get 3300 fps from the 160 gr bullets is amazing to me. I only get around 3100 fps. That being said, usually your best load is near max, especially in the STW. Now, try and replicate the velocity your rifle shot the best because it definitely liked that combination. As long as you use the same bullet, you can use almost any powder but you have to reach the same velocity. Some powders will be more temp stable and have less pressure at those velocities than others.
 
Doug, I've loaded for a couple 7mm Remington Mags that shot that fast. What length is your tube?
 
It's 26". Now, I stopped at 3557 fps with a 143 gr bullet when I had the slightest of a heavy bolt lift. I'd love to get 3200 fps out of a 160 gr bullet, so 3300 fps seems like a pipe dream to me. All I have to say is I'm a little jealous. I'm a bit of a velocity freak
 
In my experience, it's the luck of the draw. I've had a couple rifles that were stupid slow—-a Ruger 77 and a Tikka T 3x, both in 30-06. One had to be pushed hard to get 180s at 2700, and the other, to get 165s to 2800. As I recall, factory 180s shot 2525. Drove me nuts...although both shot very well with IMR4350. My Sako probably has the fastest barrel I've worked with in 30 years of hand-loading. I was surprised enough with the speed to check with a buddies chronograph. There was no perceptible difference.
 
Catskills said:
In my experience, it's the luck of the draw. I've had a couple rifles that were stupid slow—-a Ruger 77 and a Tikka T 3x, both in 30-06. One had to be pushed hard to get 180s at 2700, and the other, to get 165s to 2800. As I recall, factory 180s shot 2525. Drove me nuts...although both shot very well with IMR4350. My Sako probably has the fastest barrel I've worked with in 30 years of hand-loading. I was surprised enough with the speed to check with a buddies chronograph. There was no perceptible difference.
Click to expand...

It's good to be lucky!!
 
Fire306 said:
Well, we have our own STW section now, we might as well start our own 7mm STW reloading thread.

Let's see what favorites are out there.

Please include what firearm you are using, including barrel type , length and twist.
Also include info for brass, bullets, primers, powder, charge weights, OAL, etc.
If you have a chrono, let use know the speeds you are getting.

Don't forget, anyone reading this, hand loading can be dangerous if done improperly.
Please view loads listed and a guideline and treat any load you find listed as if it is too hot for your rifle, and safely build up loads for your own firearm.
**Just because someone is using the same firearm you are, does not automatically make their loads safe for your firearm**

Be safe!
Click to expand...
What's new Remington stw brass worth?
 

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