Tracking problems

I have seen the practice of "tapping the scope". This is no different than hitting a TV to make it work. Stick to the variables that can be measured. I have and shoot the SHV as well as the NXS, you should be very pleased with your choice; "no tapping required"!
 
It sounds like your tracking is off. I would first recheck rings and mounts and then try sighting in your scope again from scratch in the same session. If it's not repeating, I'd try putting the VX5HD on a different firearm just as a last chance experiment. If results are still not consistent, it might very well be the scope. That's too bad since it seems like a very decked-out scope. Fortunately, Leupold has an excellent warranty, and they should be pretty good about doing right by you.
 
Oh, and after reading the rest of the comments (sorry.. i jumped the gun) it definitely sounds like there's something up with the internal erector system. What you're describing doesn't sound right for a scope that's supposed to cost that much. I know the twin bias spring system is supposed to be stronger, but essentially, it's still a leaf spring system that's being asked to do a lot in your 30 mm tube with 15x max power. I'm not saying it's the leaf spring that's failing, but maybe there's some defect in craftsmanship/assembly that's causing it. It doesn't sound tight enough. Return it.
 
Target Tamers said:
Oh, and after reading the rest of the comments (sorry.. i jumped the gun) it definitely sounds like there's something up with the internal erector system. What you're describing doesn't sound right for a scope that's supposed to cost that much. I know the twin bias spring system is supposed to be stronger, but essentially, it's still a leaf spring system that's being asked to do a lot in your 30 mm tube with 15x max power. I'm not saying it's the leaf spring that's failing, but maybe there's some defect in craftsmanship/assembly that's causing it. It doesn't sound tight enough. Return it.
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Thx Target Tamer very good advice. My son loves his SHV.
 
Arkansasboy said:
My old friend down the road said you should always tap the side of scope on every adjustment. I️ suppose he is right on this and the previous VX3 that was on this same rifle. This one is going back to Leupold for service. Unfortunately this apparently just cost me $1299 for an SHV.
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A scope that doesn't track is ok if you zero it and don't move it, but it is poison for long range hunting because you must be able to change windage and elevation for different conditions and distance.

Also If you have to "Tap" on the scope after it is adjusted to make it settle in, I consider that scope not suitable for our sport.

Some of the older scopes had a spring apposing the turret and needed coaxing into place. A high quality scope has a positive adjustment and does not require the "Tapping".

Unfortunately some scopes have problems no matter how expensive they are, so most verify the scopes tracking by doing a box test. this is simple to do and all that is required is to shoot one round, bring the turret up 3 MOA and shoot another round, then crank 3 MOA of windage in it and fire one round. Then crank 3 MOA down fire one shot and then crank the 3 MOA windage back towards the original zero and fire the last round. If the scope tracks correctly you should be back at(or very close) to the original POI (Zero).

When setting up a scope, it is very important to get the proper MOA base that will keep the scope in the center of its turret range.

J E CUSTOM
 
J E Custom said:
A scope that doesn't track is ok if you zero it and don't move it, but it is poison for long range hunting because you must be able to change windage and elevation for different conditions and distance.

Also If you have to "Tap" on the scope after it is adjusted to make it settle in, I consider that scope not suitable for our sport.

Some of the older scopes had a spring apposing the turret and needed coaxing into place. A high quality scope has a positive adjustment and does not require the "Tapping".

Unfortunately some scopes have problems no matter how expensive they are, so most verify the scopes tracking by doing a box test. this is simple to do and all that is required is to shoot one round, bring the turret up 3 MOA and shoot another round, then crank 3 MOA of windage in it and fire one round. Then crank 3 MOA down fire one shot and then crank the 3 MOA windage back towards the original zero and fire the last round. If the scope tracks correctly you should be back at(or very close) to the original POI (Zero).

When setting up a scope, it is very important to get the proper MOA base that will keep the scope in the center of its turret range.

J E CUSTOM
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Was taught to tap the turret or over compensate the elevation adjustment and turn back to desired setting several years back by the Army. It is still taught with some optics being issued.
 
Bravo 4 said:
Was taught to tap the turret or over compensate the elevation adjustment and turn back to desired setting several years back by the Army. It is still taught with some optics being issued.
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Me to !!!! or check the POI after the next shot.
But it is not necessary with the new quality scopes. some of the cheaper scopes still have the opposing spring and may need to be taped. this would also be good to find out before going to the field.

The box test should accomplish this and then you can decide what to do. I have seen scopes track good in the vertical one way and not the other also with the windage. In a good box test, the spacing between the hits should be the same if it is tracking right.

just saying

J E CUSTOM
 
Yes sir, I test all my scopes.

I catch myself over rotating turrets and turning back every time and think to myself "do you really need to do that?".
It's just a hard habit to break, especially when I'm told to do it with basic issued equipment. Plus it sure isn't gonna hurt.
 
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It Is Your Scope. As others have said...Leupold is notorious for tracking problems. I've done load work for friends over the years and I can say without any B.S. that every single gun with a Leupold on it...the Leupold has failed on me. I actually have come to expect it. Some failed bigly and some were more subtle. Mostly VX-III's and a VX6. The problems have been erector springs and parallax mechanisms. Get a better scope.
 
Lots of good advice here, scope with better tracking, SHV is hard to beat for under $1300. I have sold almost all my Leupold other than a couple on .22's and gone all Nightforce.
 
hrnhntr said:
Lots of good advice here, scope with better tracking, SHV is hard to beat for under $1300. I have sold almost all my Leupold other than a couple on .22's and gone all Nightforce.
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I'm just opposite. I said good riddance to my Nightforces. I doubt I'll downgrade to a Nightforce ever again. At least anything lower than an ATACR.
 
dfanonymous said:
What are you running? S&B? Steiner? US optics?
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March and AMG.

Also, unlike others around here, I have a bunch of new model leupolds on carry rigs that track great. I've used them enough that I feel confident chalking many of these faults up to user error or poor mounting. I am, however, working through some issues with a Zeiss V6 that is having a hard time holding zero. It may be making a trip back to Zeiss soon.
 
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