Mounting a scope

Ok, i searched the archives and couldn't find anything with the basic process. I'm posting this to help myself but to also help those that are like my self and have been mounting scopes all wrong for a long time.

What is the process or procedure for installing rings and placing an optic in them?

For years all I did was throw on rings and slap the scope in them. Just locktite, tighten, and shoot.

Now I know that this is in correct but how should I be mounting optics? What should I be doing?

Thanks Matt

Matt, many different scope mounts. Huge price range and tons of opinions on this forum. Nothing like a video, plenty on YouTube after you choose the mount you want. Good luck

IndianaMatt said:

Now I know that this is incorrect

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It's not "incorrect" at all, and that's how the vast majority of scopes are mounted. I never use Locktite though.

The human eye is pretty accurate when it comes to lining things us as they should be.

Thanks for posting this, Matt, I've thought about this very same question too.
I know there are kits out there to mount scopes and often wondered if I should be getting one or would it be a waste of money?
Making sure the reticle is level is critical, so the level is mandatory. What about the torque wrench?
As for locktite, do most people use it?
Are there any special 'tricks' for the heavy recoiling magnums?
There is a ton of knowledge and experience on this site, hopefully we can be enlightened!!!


Ron

Properly mounting a scope is two-folds; onto the rifle and for the shooter. There are plenty of instructional how to videos but here's a nice and practical video from Ryan Cleckner. While he does not show the available gadgets, he does briefly talks about it.

MtPockets said:

Thanks for posting this, Matt, I've thought about this very same question too.
I know there are kits out there to mount scopes and often wondered if I should be getting one or would it be a waste of money?
Making sure the reticle is level is critical, so the level is mandatory. What about the torque wrench?
As for locktite, do most people use it?
Are there any special 'tricks' for the heavy recoiling magnums?
There is a ton of knowledge and experience on this site, hopefully we can be enlightened!!!


Ron

Click to expand...

I am glad I'm not the only one who has wondered these things.
Should a guy but one of the kits?
Should you lap the rings?
Should you use a torque wrench?
I don't know but I'd like someone with more knowledge than myself to give an opinion.

IndianaMatt said:

I am glad I'm not the only one who has wondered these things.
Should a guy but one of the kits? Yes, it makes the task a lot easier, but that's me.

Should you lap the rings? If it needs it yes, just enough to increase contact surface. I use Burris Sig rings with inserts to avoid lapping. Once lapped, the ring is only good for the scope that intended for. This is one of the best http://www.kokopelliproducts.com/lapp.html if you can get them.

Should you use a torque wrench? Yes.

I don't know but I'd like someone with more knowledge than myself to give an opinion.

Click to expand...

^^^ I'm sure others will have a different take than me. Cheers!^^^

I bought one of the Wheeler kits and like it and use it every time I mount a scope. It comes with loctite, levels, a fat wrench, bits and lapping tools and compound. I don't loctite but I do use the rest.

Hey Matt,
It's not too daunting of a task, and the way you've done it in the past IS the way the majority of people do it. Not hard at all, but I understand you want to do it right.
I have mounted tons of bases, rings and scopes for myself and others. Personally, I do use minute amounts of Locktite on bases and rings. Once it's right, you want it to stay that way. In the past I have mounted plenty without Locktite but a few hard kicking rifles and revolvers have shown that's it's needed in some instances.
I agree with the above post that the human eye does a pretty good job at lining things up, to an extent, but levels are great for exactness and precision. Once you've mounted your base(s) and rings the scope tube should lay in there with no binding whatsoever. Never let the scope tube bend or bind. If so, that's where lapping the rings comes in to play. This is not a hard process either but should be undertaken slowly and deliberately with the mindset of having the scope tube fit precisely in the bottom and top rings (I've never had to lap rings before).

A lot of times someone will ask you look through their scope to see what you think. It's always obvious when the cross hairs aren't level. I always do a double take to make sure it's not me. If you say something to the owner, they always say the say thing pretty much, "Looks straight to me". I guess it's best to leave it at that. I mean, if they don't see it, they don't see it and probably will never comprehend why it needs to be straight.

To ensure my crosshairs/scope are level I use a flashlight. I install my bipod (other rifle rests will work) and set it up on a kitchen counter (it SHOULD be level) and place a white cutting board 12-15" behind the butt of the stock. Between the butt and cutting board I hang a plumb-bob. Once the flashlight is turned on you will see the scopes reticle transposed on the white background, with the plum-bob string hanging straight for reference. After it's level, this is where I use Locktite on the ring screws. Just a dab'l do ya. Works for me.

Good luck and happy shooting. JohnnyK.

johnnyk said:

Hey Matt,
It's not too daunting of a task, and the way you've done it in the past IS the way the majority of people do it. Not hard at all, but I understand you want to do it right.
I have mounted tons of bases, rings and scopes for myself and others. Personally, I do use minute amounts of Locktite on bases and rings. Once it's right, you want it to stay that way. In the past I have mounted plenty without Locktite but a few hard kicking rifles and revolvers have shown that's it's needed in some instances.
I agree with the above post that the human eye does a pretty good job at lining things up, to an extent, but levels are great for exactness and precision. Once you've mounted your base(s) and rings the scope tube should lay in there with no binding whatsoever. Never let the scope tube bend or bind. If so, that's where lapping the rings comes in to play. This is not a hard process either but should be undertaken slowly and deliberately with the mindset of having the scope tube fit precisely in the bottom and top rings (I've never had to lap rings before).

A lot of times someone will ask you look through their scope to see what you think. It's always obvious when the cross hairs aren't level. I always do a double take to make sure it's not me. If you say something to the owner, they always say the say thing pretty much, "Looks straight to me". I guess it's best to leave it at that. I mean, if they don't see it, they don't see it and probably will never comprehend why it needs to be straight.

To ensure my crosshairs/scope are level I use a flashlight. I install my bipod (other rifle rests will work) and set it up on a kitchen counter (it SHOULD be level) and place a white cutting board 12-15" behind the butt of the stock. Between the butt and cutting board I hang a plumb-bob. Once the flashlight is turned on you will see the scopes reticle transposed on the white background, with the plum-bob string hanging straight for reference. After it's level, this is where I use Locktite on the ring screws. Just a dab'l do ya. Works for me.

Good luck and happy shooting. JohnnyK.

Click to expand...

I never thought about the flashlight method. "Reflecting" the retical on another surface is a great idea. Thanks for the reply.
I'm sitting here thinking "why didnt I ever think of this" "this guy might be a genius".

Matt

1) Virtually all modern rifles are either pre-drilled and tapped for scope bases or grooved for the appropriate mounting attachments, so the first step is simply to make sure that the mounting system you select is the proper fit for your rifle and that the rings are of the right diameter and height for properly positioning your scope. Certain types of scope rings fit only certain types of scope bases, so make sure the components match. Scope rings also come in different heights, which might cause confusion.
2) It's usually best to mount the scope as low on the rifle as possible without the objective bell touching the barrel, and allowing clearance at the eyepiece for free operation of the bolt. Ask a savvy gun shop operator for advice. Most bases and rings are attached with screws by using socket heads or Torx wrenches.
Begin attaching the bases by wiping the attaching 
surfaces dry and clean and then applying a thin coat of oil or rust preventive. Check that the bases are properly aligned and that you're not attaching them backwards.
3) For maximum security, apply a small drop of a thread-freezing compound such as Loctite (the semi-permanent Blue is best for scope mounting). Ensure an even fit by alternately tightening the screws. If you use rings that attach to the front base by a rotating socket system, do not use the scope as a lever to pivot the ring into position. Use a wooden dowel or something of similar diameter instead.
4) With the bottom half of the rings in place, position the scope and tighten the top halves of the rings only enough to allow the scope to rotate and move back and forth. With the rifle held level, rotate the scope until the reticle is precisely vertical and horizontal.
5) Position the scope forward enough to ensure your eye is safe from recoil. As a rule of thumb, move the scope about an inch farther forward than you think it ought to be.
6) Double-check the scope's position and tighten the ring screws. Alternately tighten the screws for even spacing between the ring halves.
7)
Insert a bore sight using the proper insertion pin for the caliber you're using, then adjust the vertical and horizontal axis to your desired point of aim.
Note: Bore sighting is only a means of getting your rifle to print on paper at 100 yards. To properly sight-in your rifle, you'll need to fire test groups at the range.

I have a little trick that I came up with for mounting rings which have the top and bottom 2 screw per side 'sandwich' style like the one pictured in the video above.

Anyhow its obviously ideal get the gaps between the top and bottom rings perfectly even on all 4 sides. However to wind up with them all even requires alot of neck stretching. I have a plastic hotel room key card that I cut into 4 strips to act as spacers. I slightly screw down the rings until I can put a strip in each gap hanging downwards by its own leverage. As you tighten the screws and close the gap, the strip will begin to move upwards closer to horizontal. You can adjust each side of the rings to get the same even angle of tilt on all the hanging strips and then tighten the screws until the pressure holds the strips horizontally. At this point all the gaps are perfectly even and then I tighten down a bit more until I can barely pull out the strips. At this point you can go back and forth tightening the screws and wind up with 4 perfectly matching gaps. This technique works really well for obsessive compulsive types.
Heres a pic:

Here's a good thread to read through. This works...

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...pics/12367363/scope-mounting-to-maintain-zero

Pink fingernail polish all over my scope? No torque measurements? Plastic tape over reticle focus? No thx!!