1000 ya hunting/target rifle

Good to know. Thanks.

Thanks for all the replies and definitely keep them coming lol and yes the rabbit hole is deep ughhhh the reloading equip and tumblers, magneto speed all that is gonna be as much as the gun.

I will be bedding the entire action. I am trying to find hornady one shot case line to use as a protector for parts I don't want epoxied. I am assuming I want epoxy aroundthe entiee recoil lug so would material off the bedding block behind it need removing or can it be left alone and just epoxy around? Imo aluminum is soft so I would think epoxy would handle the steel recoil lug better?

Another question is does a trigger bed block make sense? It's aboit $30 and fills the trigger space. Also inletting screws for centering?

Where my confusing with the bedding block comes in is the fact that regular guns with pillars use that for support and the bed as just that. My gun is a large block and it might not even press on the bed block around the receiver bolts.

So I should be ok to basically inlet the sides of the stock to get epoxy there and then skim bed the bottom and up the sides and a 1.5" passed the recoil lug. And wrap with electrical tape? Making sure I use dowels or inletting screws with tape or whatever is required to fill the hole so it's centred?

I also have a timney 520ce trigger to go in as it was a good price and I ordered magpul well and 2 clips to get rid of the pesky drop floor.

I also am unsure of a quality picatinny rail in steel. So if you guys have some suggestion I'm all ears. And if anyone knows weather the 700 long range comes with 6x48 or 8x40 screws on top I'd appreciate it. I'd assume 6x48.

I want to bed everything once and get it over with before the rifle is even fired. I hate doing things twice.

Are the heavier bullets recommended with the 9.25" twist?

Shoe polish is the best release agent I've used.
You should be able to use tape and clay to keep compound where you want it without removing any material.
There's lots of quality rails. I try to use mark 4 rails and rings if I can

You will need some electrical tape on the front and sides of the recoil lug. Ibeliexe other wise it will be next to impossible to remove the gun from the stock. That little bit of free play may also help accuracy.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...e-screws/inletting-guide-screws-prod6644.aspx

I use these instead of the action screws when bedding. Wrap with some painters tape and it centers your action. The action bolts will be centered and won't be touching the pillars/bedding block after bedding.

No way bedding compound goes in your action bolt holes. Install them before dropping action in stock with bedding compound. Coat with release agent.

Canhunter35 said:

Shoe polish is the best release agent I've used.
You should be able to use tape and clay to keep compound where you want it without removing any material.
There's lots of quality rails. I try to use mark 4 rails and rings if I can

Click to expand...

I will look for some shoe polish.

Wild Bill G said:

You will need some electrical tape on the front and sides of the recoil lug. Ibeliexe other wise it will be next to impossible to remove the gun from the stock. That little bit of free play may also help accuracy.

Click to expand...

I was planing on just doing the bottom of the lug for vertical clearance and to keep it tight front to back. Maybe I should rethink this.

martinakl said:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...e-screws/inletting-guide-screws-prod6644.aspx

I use these instead of the action screws when bedding. Wrap with some painters tape and it centers your action. The action bolts will be centered and won't be touching the pillars/bedding block after bedding.

No way bedding compound goes in your action bolt holes. Install them before dropping action in stock with bedding compound. Coat with release agent.

Click to expand...

Yes these are in my cart on brownells. Including krg bolt lift kit and just hunting for a picatinny rail I want. Seems like a good way to do it and keep it centered. Should the bottom be in to center these bolts with it?

I don't use the bottom metal. A couple layers of tape around those studs helps center. Combine that with a close eye on the barrel being centered in the barrel channel and you should be good.

martinakl said:

I don't use the bottom metal. A couple layers of tape around those studs helps center. Combine that with a close eye on the barrel being centered in the barrel channel and you should be good.

Click to expand...

Sounds good. I will most likely wrap the barrel in tape near the end of the stock to center it. Just enough for a snug fit.

aburdett said:

Thanks for all the replies and definitely keep them coming lol and yes the rabbit hole is deep ughhhh the reloading equip and tumblers, magneto speed all that is gonna be as much as the gun.

I will be bedding the entire action. I am trying to find hornady one shot case line to use as a protector for parts I don't want epoxied. I am assuming I want epoxy aroundthe entiee recoil lug so would material off the bedding block behind it need removing or can it be left alone and just epoxy around? Imo aluminum is soft so I would think epoxy would handle the steel recoil lug better?

Another question is does a trigger bed block make sense? It's aboit $30 and fills the trigger space. Also inletting screws for centering?

Where my confusing with the bedding block comes in is the fact that regular guns with pillars use that for support and the bed as just that. My gun is a large block and it might not even press on the bed block around the receiver bolts.

So I should be ok to basically inlet the sides of the stock to get epoxy there and then skim bed the bottom and up the sides and a 1.5" passed the recoil lug. And wrap with electrical tape? Making sure I use dowels or inletting screws with tape or whatever is required to fill the hole so it's centred?

I also have a timney 520ce trigger to go in as it was a good price and I ordered magpul well and 2 clips to get rid of the pesky drop floor.

I also am unsure of a quality picatinny rail in steel. So if you guys have some suggestion I'm all ears. And if anyone knows weather the 700 long range comes with 6x48 or 8x40 screws on top I'd appreciate it. I'd assume 6x48.

I want to bed everything once and get it over with before the rifle is even fired. I hate doing things twice.

Are the heavier bullets recommended with the 9.25" twist?

Click to expand...

Not knocking your abilities, but as new as you are to guns/reloading/accurizing, you might be best off to pay a qualified gunsmith to bed the rifle and float the barrel.

While he has it apart, it would be worth the $150 for a Timney 510 trigger upgrade.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...r-remington-700-40x-with-safety-1-1-2-to-4-lb

MudRunner2005 said:

Not knocking your abilities, but as new as you are to guns/reloading/accurizing, you might be best off to pay a qualified gunsmith to bed the rifle and float the barrel.

While he has it apart, it would be worth the $150 for a Timney 510 trigger upgrade.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...r-remington-700-40x-with-safety-1-1-2-to-4-lb

Click to expand...

Part of the reason I enjoy doing new things is to learn the process. I won't pay someone to do something that I can learn to do. Im careful and patient enough to do the task and even if I wasn't, wrecking a stock Wont break the bank. It would just give me a reason to put a magpul 700 hunter stock on it lol Worth the money to learn. On top of that, competent gunsmiths in the area are non existent.

I have an adjustable Timney trigger to replace stock like I mentioned. It only goes to 2.5lbs which will be fine I won't be using the lightest setting on it.

aburdett said:

Thanks for all the replies and definitely keep them coming lol and yes the rabbit hole is deep ughhhh the reloading equip and tumblers, magneto speed all that is gonna be as much as the gun.

I will be bedding the entire action. I am trying to find hornady one shot case line to use as a protector for parts I don't want epoxied. I am assuming I want epoxy aroundthe entiee recoil lug so would material off the bedding block behind it need removing or can it be left alone and just epoxy around? Imo aluminum is soft so I would think epoxy would handle the steel recoil lug better?

Another question is does a trigger bed block make sense? It's aboit $30 and fills the trigger space. Also inletting screws for centering?

Where my confusing with the bedding block comes in is the fact that regular guns with pillars use that for support and the bed as just that. My gun is a large block and it might not even press on the bed block around the receiver bolts.

So I should be ok to basically inlet the sides of the stock to get epoxy there and then skim bed the bottom and up the sides and a 1.5" passed the recoil lug. And wrap with electrical tape? Making sure I use dowels or inletting screws with tape or whatever is required to fill the hole so it's centred?

I also have a timney 520ce trigger to go in as it was a good price and I ordered magpul well and 2 clips to get rid of the pesky drop floor.

I also am unsure of a quality picatinny rail in steel. So if you guys have some suggestion I'm all ears. And if anyone knows weather the 700 long range comes with 6x48 or 8x40 screws on top I'd appreciate it. I'd assume 6x48.

I want to bed everything once and get it over with before the rifle is even fired. I hate doing things twice.

Are the heavier bullets recommended with the 9.25" twist?

Click to expand...

Most of the questions regarding the bedding process that you ask are answered in the video I recommended in an earlier post. I like your attitude about doing it yourself and by your posts, I'm confident that you will do well. Spend the money on Richard's video. You will not regret it.

lgordee said:

Most of the questions regarding the bedding process that you ask are answered in the video I recommended in an earlier post. I like your attitude about doing it yourself and by your posts, I'm confident that you will do well. Spend the money on Richard's video. You will not regret it.

Click to expand...

Yes I watched the one and I he just did the recoil lug. Imo (not that I have a pile of experience), I don't think it makes sense just to do that. I did see a video of one with the bolts loose and it moved front to back a lot but I think aiming for 1000 ya shot I want full advantage of a bedded action.

I'm also considering bedding the scop rail as I've read the rem too is hand polished or something? And maybe even as far as lapping the scope and maybe even bedding it? I dunno. I imagine bedding the rail and scope isn't necessary for my level of distance. But I would like to learn how. And it couldn't hurt right?

Always lap my rings. Have bedded scope rails, but I'm mostly over that now.

Take a candle and blacken the receiver after removing the trigger bolt release and bolt. Put it in your stock to see if it is hitting the bedding block in all desired locations. Once you've done that you can see if just the lug area or other areas need compound. If your shooting a tight twist just tape the bottom and front of the lug. Make sure your action is all the way down into the stock!! We had a guy do his own "bedding job". The rifle barrel was at an angle to the for end. Claimed it shot well but seem to kick more and wanted a brake installed