WildRose
Well-Known Member
Here's the other part that is necessary, the case holder.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012838679/lee-case-length-gauge-and-shellholder
Reloading problem with bullet coming out loose...worked fine last year, don't know what changed
- Thread starter ronedog
- Start date
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https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012838679/lee-case-length-gauge-and-shellholder
Thanks for the replies. I just anealed 13 shells. I then neck sized them...turned the brass a bit and sized it again (this may not be necessary) but i did it anyway...i held the lever down for 5 seconds (someone suggested this in another thread)...and the end result was a tight fit and i couldnt turn the bullet by hand...if i pushed really hard the bullet could be pushed into the shell, but it took a lot of pressure to do this. I was happy with this...seems like i should be able to hunt with this. I keep my bullets tip up in a hard plastic cartridge holder on a belt holder. Does this neck tension concern anyone or does it seem tight enough from your experience?
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WildRose
Well-Known Member
Just something to consider by for myself I like the neck just tight enough to hold the bullet after seating and then I use the Lee crimping die to put a light crimp right at the mouth of the neck.
I've found that I'm getting much more consistent neck tension as well as much more consistent velocities in doing so.
If you have never annealed before some templag would be of great help to you. Also with a .3065 mandrel you are probably only getting .001 neck tension even with annealed brass, you get some springback even with annealed brass just not as much. I would turn down your mandrel to .3055 even .3050. IMHO .001 isn't enough especially in a hunting round.
g0rd0
Well-Known Member
try the kiss method (keep it simple stupid), and I am not saying that you are stupid it is just a saying.
Your collet die is probably dirty take it apart and clean it, when you put it back together a drop, no more, of fine machine oil or grafite on the shoulder of the collet (the outside shoulder that contacts the die not the inside that contacts the brass, DONOT over lube).
Then clean your brass before sizeing. My method is deprime, clean, then collet size.
One more thing though I have a classic cast breech lock & collet dies once my dies have been set I tossed the lee rings and replaced them with layman rings.
As a last thing,,,, a few days ago I was sizeing brass and noticed that it did not feel right as it was I found out that you can put the breech in and not have it lock in place. You may want to check that
Your collet die is probably dirty take it apart and clean it, when you put it back together a drop, no more, of fine machine oil or grafite on the shoulder of the collet (the outside shoulder that contacts the die not the inside that contacts the brass, DONOT over lube).
Then clean your brass before sizeing. My method is deprime, clean, then collet size.
One more thing though I have a classic cast breech lock & collet dies once my dies have been set I tossed the lee rings and replaced them with layman rings.
As a last thing,,,, a few days ago I was sizeing brass and noticed that it did not feel right as it was I found out that you can put the breech in and not have it lock in place. You may want to check that
I thought about crimping...I have a lee crimp, but its for my 30-06. Can I use that same crimping die, or do I need to go buy a 300wsm one? Also, how to you measure the pressure of a "light crimp", do you hang weights, or just feel with your hand? A few years ago when I was loading my 30-06 round I thought I'd try crimping and found the bullets got deformed (i was obviously crimping too much), but exactly how much I never knew. I also use a hornady runout gauge to check for runout, it allows me to make minore adjustments to the runout, which works great as long as its minor...would you then crimp after this step?
For the cleaning I read that "white lightning" oil could be used...would you recommend this?
For the sanding of the mandrel...1500 grit? and how long would you sand, half second or so?...it would be in a drill press
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
When I did that I miked the diameter with it sitting in the chuck. Then I sanded moving the paper up and down the shaft for a couple seconds. I stopped it and measured it again. When it was correct I stopped.
Personally I would get the the neck tension you want if you crimp without a cannular you will deform the bullets without using a very mild crimp and then with a cannular your seating depth is what is is very little adjustment. Just my 2 cents
WildRose
Well-Known Member
I crimp after everything else is done. A .30 cal crimp die is a .30 cal crimp die, I don't think they make them more specific than that but you can check.
The only lube I use on my dies, brass, bullets etc is the hornady spray lube. Be sure to let it dry thoroughly before using. When it is still wet it doesn't lube well at all.
I think you've gotten good advice from the guys above, I've just noticed a market improvement since I started doing things this way.
I'd read about the loose necks and crimping for years but to be honest was skeptical and a bit concerned about doing it with high pressure centerfires but after having trouble with consistency with one rifle I gave it a try and no I'm doing it with everything.
Neck tension. Measure the neck diameter before and after seating a bullet. The neck should expand by .002" or more after seating. http://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/13/product-support
I have had stuck cases a few times using that spray.
I do not crimp except on ammo for autos. I use .003-.004. I have experienced accuracy and ES issue with taper and roll crimping. I keep dry lube in the case neck (acts like carbon). I turn all my necks to a consistent thickness usually the thickest I can get with a skim pass on the thinnest neck. I get very consistent seat and release force doing this. I have never had good luck with very light neck tension. The only times were with loads that were just kissing the lands.
With all that said I know a few guys that swear by lee taper crimp.
I do not crimp except on ammo for autos. I use .003-.004. I have experienced accuracy and ES issue with taper and roll crimping. I keep dry lube in the case neck (acts like carbon). I turn all my necks to a consistent thickness usually the thickest I can get with a skim pass on the thinnest neck. I get very consistent seat and release force doing this. I have never had good luck with very light neck tension. The only times were with loads that were just kissing the lands.
With all that said I know a few guys that swear by lee taper crimp.
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WildRose
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem until I read the directions and started letting it dry well before proceeding.
Felt kinda stupid.
I tried the pads and liquids too but found them to be just way too messy.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
Yep. Gotta let it dry. Works better than Imperial wax for me.
Ronedog,
Dear Sir.
PLEASE CHECK THAT THE TOP ON THE COLLET NECK SIZE DIE IS SCREWED ALL THE WAY DOWN.
This alone will will make the die not size the neck.
By the way, there should be no issues with Winchester brass in the die.
Dear Sir.
PLEASE CHECK THAT THE TOP ON THE COLLET NECK SIZE DIE IS SCREWED ALL THE WAY DOWN.
This alone will will make the die not size the neck.
By the way, there should be no issues with Winchester brass in the die.
