Tuning for long range

Awesome thread. Definitely worth the tag.

I'll be watching this thread for sure since I'm always game to read different ideas

Don

Tagging in

Alex, that's similar to Jason Barney's method sans the chronograph. I've been using pretty much the same method, with a LabRadar and it has worked out very well at 400 yds. If it holds up at that range, it tends to also shoot well at extended ranges. Mirage can distort results, so I have to catch the right conditions, to get good data. I prefer cool, cloudy days with little wind, but they are hard to find.

I have tried the magic markers and found them hard to decipher at times, so now I use the target camera. Makes it easy to mark up in my log. Overall, this method gives great results with a limited number of shots. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I too have tried marking the bullets, but I used Sharpie's and there was not enough transfered to ID shots...does the type of marker make the difference?

I use Sharpies with fairly good results. I cover from the tip to the ojive (don't put any on the bearing surface). I also use a white poster board weight sort of paper. Colors show up well enough that way. It is by no means perfect, but you can determine what the shots were.

When I sharpie bullets and shoot ladders at distance onto basic 1/2 plywood with no white paint besides my aiming point. I can't see the different colors by just kneeling down up close and looking at the holes, even in bright sunlight. If you will get an led light (I just use the flashlight on my phone) and shine it on the bullet holes you can clearly distinguish the colors even on surfaces that aren't white.

I have no problem telling the colors using sharpie brand. I use white butchers paper, but also the back of IBS targets. White coregated plastic works really well.

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dok7mm said:

Alex, that's similar to Jason Barney's method sans the chronograph. I've been using pretty much the same method, with a LabRadar and it has worked out very well at 400 yds. If it holds up at that range, it tends to also shoot well at extended ranges. Mirage can distort results, so I have to catch the right conditions, to get good data. I prefer cool, cloudy days with little wind, but they are hard to find.

I have tried the magic markers and found them hard to decipher at times, so now I use the target camera. Makes it easy to mark up in my log. Overall, this method gives great results with a limited number of shots. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

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When I am doing load work for a competition rifle I do 1k yard ladders, 3 shots per charge without the chrony. But I do not do it that way for a hunting rifle for many reasons.

Ok...I know what the problem is...I use big sheets of cardboard.

One of the kids last high school projects we bought her a corrugated plastic poster board. Never thought about using something like that...I know it is almost self-healing so it will have more resistants against the bullets.

Seriously looking forward to trying this in the next few weeks!

If you were going to be developing a load for a new bullet, would you do a quick seating depth test? Just
Thinking out load with ladder testing. If I go +\- .020 on my lands my groups open up to 1.5". Seems like a ladder would be very hard to read if your seating depth was way off.. Do you do a ladder test for customers rifles?

Rhovee said:

If you were going to be developing a load for a new bullet, would you do a quick seating depth test? Just
Thinking out load with ladder testing. If I go +\- .020 on my lands my groups open up to 1.5". Seems like a ladder would be very hard to read if your seating depth was way off.. Do you do a ladder test for customers rifles?

Click to expand...

You certainly could. What I find with ladders is theres always a "winner" even if its not pretty. So, if your seating was way off you'll still get a "least worst" out of the test. At that point Id load that charge and work seating to see if it will come in. I will not spend much time with a combo, if its not wanting to shoot, try another bullet or powder. A well built rifle with a good barrel tunes very easily. If it doesn't theres something wrong. I used to do some load development for customer's rifles. I am too busy to offer that right now, but I want to get back to doing it. I enjoy the whole process from building to dialing them in, but it does take time. In the next couple years I hope to offer rifles with load work done already. A ladder will definitely be how I do it.

Alex Wheeler said:

When I am doing load work for a competition rifle I do 1k yard ladders, 3 shots per charge without the chrony. But I do not do it that way for a hunting rifle for many reasons.

Click to expand...

Briefly would you explain why the difference?

odoylerules said:

Briefly would you explain why the difference?

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In competition we only shoot one distance. We tune there only. And the tune has to be much finer. Its tough to tune at 1k but I feel necessary to compete at the top level. For a hunting rifle, I am shooting at all ranges so I do care about ES and my tune does not need to be as fine. I want a wide forgiving load, so I like to see the chrony numbers to be sure of it. A competition rifle may shoot 2" at 1k with a powder window of .1 grain. Id rather have a 5" tune with a 1 grain window. Plus the logistics of tuning at 1k make it more demanding of the shooter and conditions.