Recent content by Jud96

Depends on where the action’s threads start. If the threads aren’t indexed repeatedly during manufacturing of the action, then the barrel engraving won’t line up in the same place on every action. Or the barrel maker isn’t repeatably indexing the engraving on the barrel.

Here's my opinion on this. Hornady acts like 1/4 MOA rifles don't exist. Go to a benchrest match and see for yourself how the loading and tuning is done and the groups that are shot all weekend long. Then go to the next match and the same guys are shooting at the top, it ain't random. If you...

One thing to note, the faster powders being used in the 7-6.5 PRCW and velocities in that neighborhood are with 30-32” barrels. Drop that back to 22-26” barrels used in hunting rifles, you’ll be in the 2750-2850 range more than likely. F-Class shooters will pick the most accurate and consistent...

I’m not a powder expert, but high energy powders tend to have more nitroglycerine in them that increases their “energy” and they also tend to burn at higher temperatures. The downside is often less barrel life because of the higher temps and more energy content. I can’t say for certain why...

Just for clarification, that’s not a Lone Peak action

N570 is a very high energy double base powder. Retumbo is a single base powder and isn’t considered “high energy”. RL26 is another high energy powder that delivers more speed than others in the same burn rate.

There's a lot of good information in here! I'll put my 2 cents in. We build a fair amount of lightweight custom rifles at Pierce Engineering, and we build way more actions for customers who are building lightweight rifles. A lot of things depend on your budget, and the type of game you plan to...

The advantage of my design is the reamer shank is held directly by the reamer holder, and not a separate holder that then goes into the reamer holder. There's no possibility of tolerance stacking with the reamer being held by a separate piece vs being held directly by the reamer holder. Also...

I've gotten some interest in these and I'm planning to make a run of them. I'm thinking I'll start out around $125 for the reamer stop. The other popular adjustable reamer stop available is $225, but it's more pieces than mine. Thoughts?

I wanted to start this thread to share with you all the adjustable reamer stop I made. This whole project began when I was considering my options for how to control the depth of my reamer on my lathe. My lathe doesn't have .001 graduations on the tailstock, and my tailstock is round so attaching...

Sounds like you’re getting things figured out!

You can measure the distance the headspace gauge is protruding before reaming and while you ream. That however requires you have a depth micrometer and know how to use a depth mic correctly.

You can deepen a chamber pretty easily .001-.002. Put the barrel in a barrel vise, coat the reamer in a cutting oil, slide the reamer into the chamber until it’s up against the shoulder in the chamber, then put constant even forward pressure on the shoulder as you slowly rotate the reamer...

Very good. It’s been my experience and opinion to always approach your gunsmith first and if he doesn’t help, then the manufacturer. Manson has been great to deal with in my experience and they’ll either take care of you or point out your problems and get you off in the right direction.

Talk to Manson if that’s where you got the reamers from. It’s best to talk to the manufacturer before getting another party involved