I have a savage 114 in 300 win mag that's just sitting in the safe collecting dust. I did a semi custom build on a rem 300 RUM and I love it for my long range elk rifle. I'm kicking around the idea to turn my savage into a 6.5x300win. Is this possible? I'm very new to the wildcatting game and such. All I know is I would need a new barrel and custom dies. I know other stuff would need to be done if it's possible but I have no idea what. If some of you guys who know about this stuff I would really appreciate some info. Also if I spend about 300-400 on a barrel what should a ballpark price range be to complete this setup? Thanks for your help.
Savage 6.5x300 win???
- Thread starter coych
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Savages are very easy to work on, I think you would be better served getting a pre-fit barrel in .264 win mag or if you wanted a little more horsepower, .26 Nosler. With both of these you can get headstamped brass and readily available reloading dies. But if you really do want to do a wildcat, go ahead with the 6.5x300 win mag
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Good luck and have fun gun)
.Good luck and have fun gun)
Outlaw6.0
Well-Known Member
I kicked around the idea of the 6.5x300wm for quite a while before deciding on the 6.5wsm. Mainly just because of brass. I personally think would be a great cartridge. You're already got a ballpark on the barrel. If you stick with the standard Savage barrel nut setup, you should be able to install it at home with the proper go- no go gauges.
The rest of the cost is up to you, what else do you want to change? Mitch is correct in stating you will probably have to change the stock. The factory ones are only suitable as a boat paddle (IMHO) & the barrel channel will most likely not work. I'd opt for a far heavier profile than the factory tomato stake.
t
The rest of the cost is up to you, what else do you want to change? Mitch is correct in stating you will probably have to change the stock. The factory ones are only suitable as a boat paddle (IMHO) & the barrel channel will most likely not work. I'd opt for a far heavier profile than the factory tomato stake.
t
I have 3 6.5-300wm's. I've killed a few elk with them in addition to a deer at 1006yds and a antelope at 512yds with one of them. There is really good brass available in RWS and Lapua (if you can still find it). Winchester isn't bad either. Mine shoots 140 Amax's 3230fps with Retumbo in RWS cases and 3295fps with R-33. With Winchester cases you'll gain 50-75fps typically. I shoot the Retumbo load usually because I've shot it more and it's pretty phenomenally accurate. A couple weeks ago I shot a 3 shot group at 900yds that was 2" of vertical and about 6" horizontal. The wind caught me on one shot otherwise it would have been about a 3-3 1/2" group. I am going to try some R-33 in Winchester cases here before too long to see if it keeps the same accuracy and gains me 125-150fps or so. I'm pretty sure 3350+fps is there with R-33 and R-50 might be even better. After that I'll try to get some 150gr Matrix bullets to try out.
My main one is a 28" Bartlein 8" twist spiral fluted Sendero contour. The second one I built is a cheap (I paid 50.00 for it) Green Mountain 9" twist 26" Sendero contour barrel that loves 123gr Amax's at 3380fps. It does not like 140's. 140's shoot about 1" and 123's shoot 1/4-3/8". The last one I built in a #4 fluted Benchmark 8" twist. I haven't shot the last one much.
The first one took a bit of trial on loads because I had no where to get info short of using 869 for powder. In reality I bet I had the load I'm shooting now dialed in 40 rounds or less and it shoots under 3/8" all day long. The second one took about 12-15 rounds to find the load. My 140gr load is 70grs of Retumbo in RWS cases with CCI250 primers and the 123 load is 73grs of Retumbo with RWS cases and CCI250 primers. I think the R-33 load was 75.5grs in RWS cases with 140's. All of these loads jump 2.5-3grs when you use Winchester brass.
As someone has already said......the .264wm or 26 Nosler would be easier and cheaper for dies for most people. I use my 7-300wm die to FL size and a backed out .264wm die to neck size and bump the shoulder (if needed).
My main one is a 28" Bartlein 8" twist spiral fluted Sendero contour. The second one I built is a cheap (I paid 50.00 for it) Green Mountain 9" twist 26" Sendero contour barrel that loves 123gr Amax's at 3380fps. It does not like 140's. 140's shoot about 1" and 123's shoot 1/4-3/8". The last one I built in a #4 fluted Benchmark 8" twist. I haven't shot the last one much.
The first one took a bit of trial on loads because I had no where to get info short of using 869 for powder. In reality I bet I had the load I'm shooting now dialed in 40 rounds or less and it shoots under 3/8" all day long. The second one took about 12-15 rounds to find the load. My 140gr load is 70grs of Retumbo in RWS cases with CCI250 primers and the 123 load is 73grs of Retumbo with RWS cases and CCI250 primers. I think the R-33 load was 75.5grs in RWS cases with 140's. All of these loads jump 2.5-3grs when you use Winchester brass.
As someone has already said......the .264wm or 26 Nosler would be easier and cheaper for dies for most people. I use my 7-300wm die to FL size and a backed out .264wm die to neck size and bump the shoulder (if needed).
Outlaw6.0
Well-Known Member
Has anyone tried running a straight up .300wm bushing die with the proper bushing to neck down to 6.5? It's quite a ways to go, I would probably recommend stepping down in 3-4 steps.
t
Jeff (Broz) I know has done it to 7-300wm but I haven't heard anyone doing it to 6.5-300wm. The down side to going that far below the parent cartridge is it may not do enough sizing on the shoulder because of the caliber difference. Bushing dies are about .030" oversized at the neck. So at roughly .368" is where it would size the shoulder and my loaded rounds are .289" with neck turned brass. My reamer has a .293" neck. That leaves a good portion of the shoulder back from the neck unsized and can create problems.
Personally if I was going to do this over (for both my 7-300wm's and my 6.5-300wm's) I would do a 35 degree shoulder and go with a custom bushing die in 7-300wm imp. that could be used for the 6.5 too. I have to trim cases every other firing and it get's old. The sharper shoulder would push that back to probably 4 firings. It would also get you another 40-50fps. I think 3400fps with R-33 or R-50 and 140's would be doable in a 6.5-300wm Imp. That's right with a 26 Nosler but with a lot more brass options. The downer is having to fireform brass but I'd make a fireform barrel for that to save barrel life. There are a lot of benefits to doing your own gunsmithing.
Personally if I was going to do this over (for both my 7-300wm's and my 6.5-300wm's) I would do a 35 degree shoulder and go with a custom bushing die in 7-300wm imp. that could be used for the 6.5 too. I have to trim cases every other firing and it get's old. The sharper shoulder would push that back to probably 4 firings. It would also get you another 40-50fps. I think 3400fps with R-33 or R-50 and 140's would be doable in a 6.5-300wm Imp. That's right with a 26 Nosler but with a lot more brass options. The downer is having to fireform brass but I'd make a fireform barrel for that to save barrel life. There are a lot of benefits to doing your own gunsmithing
.
Outlaw6.0
Well-Known Member
Jeff (Broz) I know has done it to 7-300wm but I haven't heard anyone doing it to 6.5-300wm. The down side to going that far below the parent cartridge is it may not do enough sizing on the shoulder because of the caliber difference. Bushing dies are about .030" oversized at the neck. So at roughly .368" is where it would size the shoulder and my loaded rounds are .289" with neck turned brass. My reamer has a .293" neck. That leaves a good portion of the shoulder back from the neck unsized and can create problems.
Personally if I was going to do this over (for both my 7-300wm's and my 6.5-300wm's) I would do a 35 degree shoulder and go with a custom bushing die in 7-300wm imp. that could be used for the 6.5 too. I have to trim cases every other firing and it get's old. The sharper shoulder would push that back to probably 4 firings. It would also get you another 40-50fps. I think 3400fps with R-33 or R-50 and 140's would be doable in a 6.5-300wm Imp. That's right with a 26 Nosler but with a lot more brass options. The downer is having to fireform brass but I'd make a fireform barrel for that to save barrel life. There are a lot of benefits to doing your own gunsmithing
I wasn't thinking about the shoulder, you're right. The Improved version sounds intriguing.... there may be enough room in my safe for a 3rd 6.5.....
Yes there are definitely a lot of benefits to being your own 'smith.... i'm jealous.
t
There are a lot of benefits to doing your own gunsmithing
+1 on that
fire forming is where those $50 greenmountian barrels come in handy.Wow thanks for all the help guys. I have a lot of thinking to do. That 26 Nosler sounds pretty slick though. If I could get it done for under a grand (without a stock) I'd be more than happy. Having head stamped brass would make me pretty happy (I'm an aesthetics guy) I've been wanting to get into a 6.5 for awhile now and it would be great to use a dust collector in the safe to do so. Thanks again guys.
Should not be to hard, talk to a competent gunsmith.Savages are very easy to work on, I think you would be better served getting a pre-fit barrel in .264 win mag or if you wanted a little more horsepower, .26 Nosler. With both of these you can get headstamped brass and readily available reloading dies. But if you really do want to do a wildcat, go ahead with the 6.5x300 win mag
Good luck and have fun gun)
Husky user
Well-Known Member
A 264 Winchester won't give you the FPS Idaho CTE is talking about unless you go with the 28"barrel.(maybe not even then)
Sell that safe dust collector and buy a 26 Nosler(aren't they about $1900)
Then you would not have to worry about a stock or custom dies(unless you want to)
Sell that safe dust collector and buy a 26 Nosler(aren't they about $1900)
Then you would not have to worry about a stock or custom dies(unless you want to)
Husky user
Well-Known Member
Can't you buy a Weatherby Vanguard in 6.5-300 and save quite a bit of money?
