FL size fire-formed brass?

rocknwell

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Hello again. I am wanting to know if I have to F/L size a case every time I reload or just every time I load brass that hasn't yet been fired in MY gun? If I do it only on "new" brass, what do I use for my previously fired brass (ie:fired from MY gun)? Do I need a different type of die? I bought a 30-06 2 die set by rcbs, but are there more dies I need? I'm almost ready to start and I just want to make sure I have all that I need to do it right. I was under the impression that the brass that has been fired in my gun is now fire-formed to my chamber and no longer requires FL resizing.
 
wow, "loaded" question.
my suggestion, buy a few loading manuals and READ them. lots of info besides load data. also, check with local sporting goods retailers for reloading seminars, or better yet, your local rifle club members.
 
With a 30-06 you might get a couple reloadings with neck sizing only. But soon you will have to FL size, so many would suggest it right up front & for every reloading.
Look in the box and see if your die is FL
 
I was under the impression that the brass that has been fired in my gun is now fire-formed to my chamber and no longer requires FL resizing.

No matter what, after each firing, at least the neck will have to be sized in order to retain the next bullet being loaded.

You can use your FL sizing die and resize the entire case, including the neck, or you can purchase a neck sizing die and do only the neck.

If you FL size, be careful not to size too deep and set the head space back to far. This situation can cause problems as well as over work the brass.
 
If you FL size, be careful not to size too deep and set the head space back to far. This situation can cause problems as well as over work the brass.

This is the sticky about FL resizing. Overworking the brass leads to short life and increased headspace. First, if you are reloading for a hunting rifle, neck sizing may at some point leave you with one than won't chamber. Some folks FL size every time which is OK if done correctly.

To do so correctly, start with shell holder touching bottom of the die. If the case will chamber easily, leave it there. If not, shoulder has moved forward and needs to be pushed back. With firing pin assembly removed, move the die down about 1/16th turn, and try again. Keep doing this until the case will chamber, then stop.
 
I FL size every time, just to ensure good chambering and to bump the shoulder 1-2 thou. I prefer dies that use a removable bushing for sizing the neck so I can control how much it is sized (over sizing and expanding necks reduces brass life).

I agree with other posters about doing lots of research on the reloading process. Once you fully understand what the different options are (and the pros and cons of each) you can decide how to proceed.

There is one thing I find invaluable in reloading, and strongly recommend regardless of method - measure everything. New brass vs fired brass. Fired brass vs resized brass. Bullet seating depth to the ogive, relative to lands of rifling....etc etc etc

To do this, get a good set of calipers and a nice micrometer. From there, look into headspace attachments or gauges, bullet comparator attachments, and a system to determine loaded bullet length relative to the rifling of your barrel. It sounds like a lot, but researching them individually will also give you a good education on the nuances of the reloading process. Knowing these things will give you excellent control of your reloading process. To me, it is invaluable.

Brandon
 
Gene,

I think you accidentally said to start with die against shell holder. All your directions are good except that starting point. Can't move die much lower as you begin to cam against shell holder in next adjustment.

I think you meant start with FL die away from shell holder several turns and size case.

Try the wiped off sized case in chamber. If it is tight then progressively move die towards shell holder 1/8-1/4 turn at a time till sized case fits with little or no resistance when closing the bolt. Once you have the proper distance established you could tighten the set screw on lock ring or better use feeler gauges to measure the gap. I put the feeler gauges in the box. Also write reminder notes with sharpy on inside of box lid as to what works, OAL etc.
 
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