300 weatherby build

coyotelite

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I have a Winchester model 70 classic sporter chambered in 300wby I got in 1998. I am planning on going with an hs precision stock, bedding the recoil lug and throwing a 4-16x50 vortex viper hs lr on it. I'm building this for hunting purposes expecting to shoot either the 190 lr accubond or the tipped tsx. Is it realistic to hope to stretch this thing out to 800-1000yds if needed? Is there anything else I could do to improve the rifle?
 
Trigger and a muzzle break. Some people can handle recoil better than others but the .300wby is a sharp hit. If the gun is capable of sub moa accuracy, it is only warming up at a 1000. I shoot 180 ttsx for hunting but the gun really shines with 200+ gr bullets. I think there is an accubond that is heavier than 190 that could generate good results in both hunting and lr.
If you start to get recoil shy without a break, hitting at long range will be tough.
 
How does the rifle shoot in it's current configuration?

Is is bedded? Floated? Pillars installed in the current stock?

If it's already a shooter, and the new stock is properly prepared and everything is installed properly you can only expect it to get better.

If however there are issues with the barreled action which make it inherently inaccurate then nothing short of truing the action and installing a new barrel is going to make it a shooter.

Before investing in a new, high quality stock I'd do all of the above to the existing set up to see what it's capable of, otherwise it can get very expensive and very disappointing.
 
How does the rifle shoot in it's current configuration?

Is is bedded? Floated? Pillars installed in the current stock?

If it's already a shooter, and the new stock is properly prepared and everything is installed properly you can only expect it to get better.

If however there are issues with the barreled action which make it inherently inaccurate then nothing short of truing the action and installing a new barrel is going to make it a shooter.

Before investing in a new, high quality stock I'd do all of the above to the existing set up to see what it's capable of, otherwise it can get very expensive and very disappointing.

What he said ^^^^. Make sure it can shoot.
 
It's a 1" at 100yd rifle now. And that's with $hitty optics and a quick hand load. I'm currently shooting a 180gr hornady and can punch milk hugs to 400yds. The wood stock has been fully glass bedded and it has a break on it now. I don't shoot much so I'm sure some trigger time will tighten things up too. What trigger setups do you recommend?
 
It's a 1" at 100yd rifle now. And that's with $hitty optics and a quick hand load. I'm currently shooting a 180gr hornady and can punch milk hugs to 400yds. The wood stock has been fully glass bedded and it has a break on it now. I don't shoot much so I'm sure some trigger time will tighten things up too. What trigger setups do you recommend?
Sounds like you have a rifle with great potential.

I have never changed the trigger in any of my model 70's. I find with just some honing and lapping and adjustment they are great triggers, especially the new MOA trigger.

The simplest way to do it is to bathe the trigger group and safety in 320gr lapping compound and work the hell out of them for a few hundred cycles.

Then flush it all out and repeat with 800gr.

SILICON CARBIDE ABRASIVE COMPOUND | Brownells

When finished blow it all out with gun scrubber or something similar, lubricate properly and you'll be amazed at how clean and crisp it will be.

In the rare case there's a big burr making it rough that you can't get rid of this way, take it to a gunsmith and ask him to clean it up.

Be sure once you have it adjusted to suit you that you put some locktite or superglue on the adjustment nuts to keep them from walking.
 
So I went out and shot today. First 3 shots at 150yds measured 1 1/2". After that it spreads out. 3" was best I could do. Hold was good, shot was good but the groups were not. Does this sound like a stock issue? My uncle glass bedded the full length of the wood stock a few years back so it's not free floated. With the first group being good but the warm barrel throwing flyers it seems like a stock issue. Any ideas?
 
So I went out and shot today. First 3 shots at 150yds measured 1 1/2". After that it spreads out. 3" was best I could do. Hold was good, shot was good but the groups were not. Does this sound like a stock issue? My uncle glass bedded the full length of the wood stock a few years back so it's not free floated. With the first group being good but the warm barrel throwing flyers it seems like a stock issue. Any ideas?
Measure three inches in front of the lug and clean the remaining barrel channel out completely such that you can fold a dollar bill double and slide it all the way without binding anywhere.

Did your uncle install pillars?

what is your scope and mount set up?

There are a multitude of factors to examine before any determination can be made.

What ammo are you shooting? Have you chronographed it to see what your extreme spread is?

Again, lots of things can affect your grouping including the shooter. How are you shooting it? Free hand? Off of bags? Using a rear bag and bipod? Again, far too many things to consider that can affect accuracy to make a blanket statement without more info.
 
Ok I'm new to 90% of this but here is what I have. My uncle did not install pillars. Just bedded the stock. I am shooting 180gr hornady interlock with 84.5gr of IMR 7828. As for OAL I've maxed the length out to fit the mag box because of the weatherby bore float. The scope is a Simmons pro 50. Cheap and I'm just using it for now To see if it will shoot good enough to put the extra cash into. I was laying down shooting off of bags in the front. I have not chronographed the loads because they are not my final load. I am just trying to determine if the rifle will shoot well enough to Make it worth dumping $1000 in to making it a true shooter. Any and all info for this newbie is greatly appreciated.
 
Ok I'm new to 90% of this but here is what I have. My uncle did not install pillars. Just bedded the stock. I am shooting 180gr hornady interlock with 84.5gr of IMR 7828. As for OAL I've maxed the length out to fit the mag box because of the weatherby bore float. The scope is a Simmons pro 50. Cheap and I'm just using it for now To see if it will shoot good enough to put the extra cash into. I was laying down shooting off of bags in the front. I have not chronographed the loads because they are not my final load. I am just trying to determine if the rifle will shoot well enough to Make it worth dumping $1000 in to making it a true shooter. Any and all info for this newbie is greatly appreciated.
I would go ahead and take the time to install pillars and free float the barrel. If you have access to a better scope I'd suggest trying one. You're not doing bad with what you have but without the pillars, free float, and better glass you're still really guessing at what it's capable of. The bullet you are shooting is certainly a good one. If you aren't seeing any pressure signs you can tweak on your load up and down once you get the rest done to see if you can tune it in to ever tighter groups.
 
Vary you col a few thou and see if it makes any difference. I've tried several loads in my 7rem mag and some shoot great others I'd have better off throwing bullets at the target. That was the case with the last box of hsm with berger vld, all the other times I've had great results.
For now double check your action screws, scope mounts and rings. Most of my rifles like about 60-65 inlb on the action, I run 25-30 on my mounts and rings and have had pretty good luck, regardless of synthetic or wood stocks. Without a good scope you won't know the full potential of the rifle, is there maybe one you could trade out from another rifle or a buddy that'd let you borrow one for a few days? If you've got the option of another bullet give them a shot too, try to duplicate the last load you had that shot the best and make a change by a couple grains of powder more and or less see what happens.
 
Vary you col a few thou and see if it makes any difference. I've tried several loads in my 7rem mag and some shoot great others I'd have better off throwing bullets at the target. That was the case with the last box of hsm with berger vld, all the other times I've had great results.
For now double check your action screws, scope mounts and rings. Most of my rifles like about 60-65 inlb on the action, I run 25-30 on my mounts and rings and have had pretty good luck, regardless of synthetic or wood stocks. Without a good scope you won't know the full potential of the rifle, is there maybe one you could trade out from another rifle or a buddy that'd let you borrow one for a few days? If you've got the option of another bullet give them a shot too, try to duplicate the last load you had that shot the best and make a change by a couple grains of powder more and or less see what happens.
Without floating the barrel first while the above are good suggestions, they are really a waste of time.

Adding pillars only adds about an hour's worth of work and doing both allows one to see quickly what the potential of the rifle is.

I won't even shoot one anymore until I've done that.
 
Thanks guys. I'll start with some stock work to free float and have pillars installed and we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the advice.
 
You said it was a Win 70 right? Normally only WBY rifles have freebore. Some other manufacturers did it but not many. I WOULD NOT LOAD TO MAG LENGTH until you know where the lands are. Tweaking seating depth shorter could tighten groups up but also do the stock work. Remove as many variables as you can.
 
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