#4...#5...?? Which taper?

Sully2

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Brux barrels ( but they are probably close to every one elses) #4 or #5 taper would resemble a FACTORY Remington barrel in say 280 or 270 caliber??
 
A factory contour barrel is closer to a #2 contour. A factory magnum contour is closer to a #3 contour barrel. A Remington factory varmint or Sendero barrel is closer to a #6 or #7 contour. A #4 or #5 contour barrel is heavier than a factory magnum contour and just a bit lighter than a factory varmint contour. Look closely at the weight given for each barrel contour and that should give you a pretty good idea of how big the difference between contours is.

I have three rifles that wear #4 contour barrels. It is a nice compromise between a sporter and a varmint contour.
 
I think a #2 is a standard sporter contour, this should be really close. It will probably have more of a straight section at the chamber end than the factory rem. Mcgowen barrels lists a factory rem barrel on their contours page, listed weight is only 2lbs.

I have a fluted #5 (weighs about the same same as unfluted #4). It added about 1 lb from the factory barrel which was a magnum (I think they are about a #3).
 
The Brux couture is very close to Browning A Bolt barrel.
My current build is a Brux #3 on a Remmy long action in a laminated stock cut for a factory Remmy barrel. The #3 Brux would not even start to fill up the Remmy barrel cut stock, if I wanted to make the recoil lug cut where Remmy does, right at the shoulder.

The #4 Douglas profile that I have on my Browning would not fill up the Remmy barrel cut either.

So I had to push the barrel shoulder out 2 inches from the recoil lug to give me enough meat to fill up the barrel cut in the stock.

Southern precision said that if I wanted a Remmy profile, I should order one.
So you could call them if you want your finished rifle to resemble a Factory Remmy.
Otherwise a #3, #4, or #5 can be made to work.
 
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