Anealing question

Firearrow

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First time I tried anealing. I think the two on the right are good to go, and the two on the left got a bit to much heat. There is a little dark blotchiness. But a little 600 grit and it comes right off. If I over heated them the discoloration shouldn't come off right?
 

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Yes, the two on the right look like they are annealed correctly. But are they? You've most likely read that the key to accurate hand-loads is that everything MUST be consistent. An annealing machine is an efficient and consistent way to anneal brass if you can afford one.

However, I simply put 650 degree Tempilaq on the outside of the case just below the shoulder and use a horizontal strip about the width of the tine on a dinner fork and about 1/8 of an inch long. This method allows me to see exactly when the brass reaches the target temperature.


For more information on this process go to the following link:

The art and Science of Annealing
The Art and Science of Annealing
 
yes the two on the left look to have been too hot. But like said before this process needs to be done in a controlled method. I would worry if those two were too hot if they will even work back into the same hardness for consistent neck tension as the rest.

I love my bench source annealer. I doubt I would anneal at all if I could not so it consistently. Consistency is what we all strive to achieve.

Jeff
 
yes the two on the left look to have been too hot. But like said before this process needs to be done in a controlled method. I would worry if those two were too hot if they will even work back into the same hardness for consistent neck tension as the rest.

I love my bench source annealer. I doubt I would anneal at all if I could not so it consistently. Consistency is what we all strive to achieve.

Jeff

After reading the article from the above reply it makes a lot more since. My original goal was to extend brass life. Never considered the accuracy benefit.

Have another question if you guys don't mind. My method for anealing was the extended socket and the drill. Put the brass in and spin the drill. Use the torch until you see it just start to turn blue. Got the method from the guy at ammosmith.com. I don't shoot competitively, hunting and long range practice, and I was wondering if this method is a waist of time.

I'm not trying to be lazy or cut corners, just new to anealing and need feedback on my current method.
 
I know a lot of guys do it that way. I just cant get comfortable with the possibilities of the variables. That's why I bought a machine that does each case exactly the same and has an adjustable timer for how long it is in the flame spinning.

Jeff
 
To me, all four cases looked over annealed, according to my bench source information
when its done right you notice very little discoloration on the case.
When I set up to anneal the room is dark and I use 650 to 700 templac to check for proper temps and time the case sits on the rotating platform.

I have also noticed that when I have annealed virgin brass for the first time I get a slighter darker coloration then I do after I anneal a fired case.

I annealed new cases to see if I could increase the life of reloads when I would shoot them on the hot side. And I did get two more firings out of them
.
I know that the necks give me lighter tension when I seat the bullets they glide right in. So I am, readjusting the grain structure on the neck. Most of the time I think most guys over anneal looking for that rainbow or purple discoloration below the shoulder of the case.
 
I might point out here that the reason we have both "high number" and "low number" Springfield M1903 receivers, is that in the earliest production of the Army's new rifle, they heat treated them according to what "looked" about right.

Use the Tempilaq sticks to measure this. Like "L.E. Sam" Wilson used to say, "you don't know what you 'think', you only know what you measure."
 
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